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Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner discover new ice climbs in Iceland
16/12/2016 - Alpinism
Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner discover new ice climbs in Iceland
Ice climbing: in February 2016 the Austrian alpinists Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner established a flurry of new ice climbs in Iceland, including Tröll leikhus at Austurárdalur, currently the hardest on the island.
Thomas Huber: a ground fall, Latok I and the gratitude for being alive
29/11/2016 - Alpinism
Thomas Huber: a ground fall, Latok I and the gratitude for being alive
German alpinist Thomas Huber recounts the last three months that, in his words, 'have left a profound mark on my life.' Starting with a 16m ground fall, followed by the dream of climbing Latok I in the Karakorum and the...
Jorg Verhoeven and the El Capitan Dihedral Wall interview
21/11/2016 - Interviews
Jorg Verhoeven and the El Capitan Dihedral Wall interview
Interview with Dutch climber Jorg Verhoeven after the second free ascent of Dihedral Wall, the difficult big wall climb freed in 2004 by Tommy Caldwell on El Capitan in Yosemite, USA.
Ray Jardine's Friends, a teacup and a blue bag
07/11/2016 - Climbing
Ray Jardine's Friends, a teacup and a blue bag
Maurizio Oviglia recalls the invention of the Friend, the revolutionary camming device invented in the 1970s by the America’s Ray Jardine. A fun story that retraces an important moment in the history of rock climbing.
Jernej Kruder / the Es Pontas deep water solo interview
02/11/2016 - Interviews
Jernej Kruder / the Es Pontas deep water solo interview
Interview with Slovenian climber Jernej Kruder who on 01/11/2016 made the first repeat of Es Pontas, the famous deep water solo climb first ascended a decade ago by Chris Sharma on the island of Mallorca, Spain.
Aiguille d'Entrèves and the climb Cocktail entr'Eve et Salluard. By Enrico Bonino
27/10/2016 - Alpinism
Aiguille d'Entrèves and the climb Cocktail entr'Eve et Salluard. By Enrico Bonino
Enrico Bonino talks about a modern interpretation of the Salluard climbs (plus variations) up the West Face of Aguille d'Entrèves in the Mont Blanc massif. The route was climbed in two stages, on 20/10/2016 by Enrico Bonino and Andrea Racchelli,...
Tor des Géants, the start of the legendary race
12/09/2016 - Competitions
Tor des Géants, the start of the legendary race
On Sunday 11 September 770 runners set off from Courmayeur for the 7th Tor des Geants, considered the most difficult mountain race in the world. This extraordinary challenge in the heart of the four giants of the Alps: 330km long...
Rock Master Festival 2016: Adam Ondra and Katharina Saurwein win the KO Boulder Contest
28/08/2016 - Competitions
Rock Master Festival 2016: Adam Ondra and Katharina Saurwein win the KO Boulder Contest
On Sunday 28 August 2016 Adam Ondra won the KO Boulder Contest of the 30th Rock Master, beating in a thrilling final Germany's Jan Hojer and France's Jeremy Bonder, joint second. Victory in the women's event went to Katharina Saurwein...
Romain Desgranges and Anak Verhoeven win the IFSC Climbing World Cup Lead at Arco
27/08/2016 - Competitions
Romain Desgranges and Anak Verhoeven win the IFSC Climbing World Cup Lead at Arco
Rock Master Festival 2016. At Arco Romain Desgranges (Fra) and Anak Verhoeven (Bel) win the 5th stage of Lead World Cup 2016. Jakob Schubert (Aut) and Jain Kim (Kor) place second, Dmitrii Fakiryanov (Rus) and Janja Garnbret (Slo) place third....
Caroline Ciavaldini / Turkey Crack at Cadarese
12/08/2016 - Climbing
Caroline Ciavaldini / Turkey Crack at Cadarese
In mid-May French rock climber Caroline Ciavaldini made a rare ascent of Turkey Crack, an 8a trad climb at Cadarese. This is the story of her rare ascent.
Steve House / knowing yourself
11/08/2016 - Alpinism
Steve House / knowing yourself
American alpinist Steve House shares his thoughts about how failing wisely provides interior growth. Originally posted only on facebook, House has kindly allowed his text to be republished on planetmountain.com.
Col Nudo, Tito Arosio and Luca Vallata score first repeat of Miotto-Saviane-Corona
19/07/2016 - Alpinism
Col Nudo, Tito Arosio and Luca Vallata score first repeat of Miotto-Saviane-Corona
On 7 July 7 2016 Tito Arosio and Luca Vallata carried out the first repeat of Via Miotto-Saviane-Corona up the north face of Col Nudo (Col Brie), first climbed from 5 - 7 June 1982 by Franco Miotto, Benito Saviane...
Helvetestinden Wall, new rock climbs on Norway's Lofoten Islands
05/07/2016 - Climbing
Helvetestinden Wall, new rock climbs on Norway's Lofoten Islands
In summer 2015 Guillermo Cuadrado, Gerber Cucurell, Jordi Esteve and Salvador Llorens climbed two new routes on the huge Helvetestinden Wall and one new route on the Selgstinden Pillar on the Lofoten Islands, Norway.
Horror Vacui, new multi-pitch rock climb up Monte Cimo by Rolando Larcher
17/06/2016 - Climbing
Horror Vacui, new multi-pitch rock climb up Monte Cimo by Rolando Larcher
Rolando Larcher together with a series of different climbing partners has made the first ascent of Horror Vacui (8b+ max, 7b+ obl.) a new multi-pitch rock climb up the Scoglio dei Ciclopi face on Monte Cimo (Val d'Adige, Italy). As...
Jacopo Larcher repeats Rhapsody in Scotland
16/05/2016 - Climbing
Jacopo Larcher repeats Rhapsody in Scotland
Interview with South Tyrolean climber Jacopo Larcher who repeated Rhapsody, one of the hardest trad climbs in the world, on 7 May 2016 at Dumbarton Rock in Scotland.
Mummy heads into the mountains
09/05/2016 - Alpinism
Mummy heads into the mountains
Although Mother’s Day was yesterday, today we’re publishing this short and beautiful write-up by Federica Maslowsky who reminds us what it’s like to be a mother (and alpinist). Long live mothers, every day!

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