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Atanas Skatov dies in a fall on K2
05/02/2021 - Alpinism
Atanas Skatov dies in a fall on K2
Bulgarian climber Atanas Skatov has died while descending from K2. The 42-year-old was attempting to climb the second highest mountain in the world in winter and had previously climbed 10 eight-thousanders.
Farewell to Cesare Maestri
20/01/2021 - Alpinism
Farewell to Cesare Maestri
Cesare Maestri passed away yesterday aged 91. The highly talented Italian alpinist, mountain guide and author was nicknamed il Ragno delle Dolomiti, the Spider of the Dolomites. His name will always be intrinsically linked not only to his beloved home mountains, but also to Cerro Torre in Patagonia.
Narsil added to Kandersteg's Breitwangflue by Simon Chatelan, Nicolas Jaquet
19/01/2021 - Alpinism
Narsil added to Kandersteg's Breitwangflue by Simon Chatelan, Nicolas Jaquet
On the Breitwangfluh above Kandersteg in Switzerland Simon Chatelan and Nicolas Jaquet have established the mixed climb Narsil (M10 WI5+). Chatelan reports.
James Pearson & Caroline Ciavaldini: the Black Rocks Hard Grit interview
29/12/2020 - Interviews
James Pearson & Caroline Ciavaldini: the Black Rocks Hard Grit interview
Interview with James Pearson and Caroline Ciavaldini after their respective repeats of Harder Faster and Gaia at Black Rocks in England. These hard grit testpieces were first ascended by Charlie Woodburn and Johnny Dawes and while Pearson’s is only the third ascent in 20 years, Ciavaldini had made the third...
James Pearson repeats Harder, Faster while Caroline Ciavaldini repeats Gaia at Black Rocks
27/12/2020 - Climbing
James Pearson repeats Harder, Faster while Caroline Ciavaldini repeats Gaia at Black Rocks
At Black Rocks in England James Pearson has repeated the extremely dangerous gritstone testpiece Harder, Faster while his wife Caroline Ciavaldini has repeated Gaia. Pearson’s is only the third ascent in 20 years, while Ciavaldini claims the third female ascent.
Bernd Zangerl explores his limits on Grenzenlos in Valle dell’Orco
02/12/2020 - Climbing
Bernd Zangerl explores his limits on Grenzenlos in Valle dell’Orco
Austrian boulderer Bernd Zangerl has made the first ascent of a difficult crack called Grenzenlos in Valle Orco, Italy. Protected with a pecker, it is a mix between a trad climb and a highball.
Viktoriia Meshkova, Sascha Lehmann European Lead Champions 2020
25/11/2020 - Competitions
Viktoriia Meshkova, Sascha Lehmann European Lead Champions 2020
In Moscow earlier today Viktoriia Meshkova from Russia and Sascha Lehmann from Switzerland won the 2020 European Lead Championship.
24 hours of freedom on Sagwand in Valsertal by Martin Feistl, Sven Brand
24/11/2020 - Alpinism
24 hours of freedom on Sagwand in Valsertal by Martin Feistl, Sven Brand
In mid-November 2020 Martin Feistl and Sven Brand in Valsertal, Austria, made the first ascent of 24 hours of freedom (300m, M6, WI 4, X) on the north face of Sagwand. This is a direct start to Rampenführe, the original line up the face, and shares a short section with...
Josef Pfnür makes first repeat of Thomas Huber's 8b+ multipitch Stone Age
18/11/2020 - Climbing
Josef Pfnür makes first repeat of Thomas Huber's 8b+ multipitch Stone Age
German climber Josef Pfnür has made the first repeat of Stone Age, established by Thomas Huber on Untersberg in the Berchtesgaden Alps, Germany in 2019
Tribe at Cadarese: the James Pearson second ascent interview
26/10/2020 - Interviews
Tribe at Cadarese: the James Pearson second ascent interview
Interview with British rock climber James Pearson after the second ascent of Tribe, the extremely difficult trad climb at Cadarese in Italy first ascended by Jacopo Larcher in 2019
Mt. Forbes, Canada: virgin East Face climbed by Alik Berg, Quentin Roberts
23/10/2020 - Alpinism
Mt. Forbes, Canada: virgin East Face climbed by Alik Berg, Quentin Roberts
Alpinists Alik Berg and Quentin Roberts have made the first ascent of the hitherto unclimbed and impressive East Face of Mount Forbes (3612 m) in the Canadian Rockies.
Cadarese Tribe repeated by James Pearson
22/10/2020 - Climbing
Cadarese Tribe repeated by James Pearson
British rock climber James Pearson has made the second ascent of Tribe, the extremely difficult trad climb at Cadarese in Italy first ascended by Jacopo Larcher.
Ushba & Ailama, difficult new Georgian climbs in the Caucasus by Archil Badriashvili, Giorgi Tepnadze, Levan Lashkarashvili
01/10/2020 - Alpinism
Ushba & Ailama, difficult new Georgian climbs in the Caucasus by Archil Badriashvili, Giorgi Tepnadze, Levan Lashkarashvili
In September 2020 Georgian mountaineers made a 16-day trip to Svaneti in Central Caucasus and completed two new routes. The first, by Archil Badriashvili, Giorgi Tepnadze and Levan Lashkarashvili, up the SW Face of Ailama (4,547m), the second by Badriashvili and Tepnadze up the NW Face of Ushba. Badriashvili reports.
Nebelgeist climbed by Simon Messner, Barbara Vigl on Schüsselkar, Austria
25/09/2020 - Alpinism
Nebelgeist climbed by Simon Messner, Barbara Vigl on Schüsselkar, Austria
Barbara Vigl reports about the first ascent of Nebelgeist, established this summer with Simon Messner on Söllerköpfe on Schüsselkar in Austria's Wetterstein mountain chain.
Madeleine Cope and Emma Twyford climb E9 in England and Wales
08/09/2020 - Climbing
Madeleine Cope and Emma Twyford climb E9 in England and Wales
Britain’s Madeleine Cope and Emma Twyford have both repeated an E9 trad route by climbing, respectively, The Final Round at Illam Rock in England and Chupacabra at Pembroke in Wales.
Barbara Zangerl, Jacopo Larcher make first repeats of Beat Kammerlander’s Rätikon Kampfzone
09/08/2020 - Climbing
Barbara Zangerl, Jacopo Larcher make first repeats of Beat Kammerlander’s Rätikon Kampfzone
On 06/08/2020 Barbara Zangerl made the first repeat of Kampfzone, an 8b+ multi-pitch in the Rätikon first ascended by Beat Kammerlander ground-up in 2013 and freed in 2017. Jacopo Larcher followed suit yesterday.

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