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Aurora Artika, discovering the climbing in Greenland's Mythic Circle
17/11/2016 - Alpinism
Aurora Artika, discovering the climbing in Greenland's Mythic Circle
Paolo Marazzi talks about his 'sailing and climbing' experience in Greenland’s Mythic Circle. The result: two new 800m climbs and above all though ‘an absolutely unique adventure in the North Sea.’
Annapurna III and the attempt by David Lama, Hansjörg Auer & Alex Blümel
16/11/2016 - Alpinism
Annapurna III and the attempt by David Lama, Hansjörg Auer & Alex Blümel
Video footage of the attempt to climb the Southeast Ridge of Annapurna III (7555m), carried out last spring by David Lama, Hansjörg Auer and Alex Blümel.
Russian direttissima up Thalay Sagar North Face
11/11/2016 - Alpinism
Russian direttissima up Thalay Sagar North Face
In September 2016 Russian mountaineers Dmitry Golovchenko, Dmitry Grigoriev and Sergey Nilov made the first ascent of Moveable Feast (1400m), a difficult new climb the North Face of Thalay Sagar (6904m) in the Indian Himalayas.
Tibet's Jang Tsang Go climbed by Domen Kastelic, Olov Isaksson & Marcus Palm
10/11/2016 - Alpinism
Tibet's Jang Tsang Go climbed by Domen Kastelic, Olov Isaksson & Marcus Palm
On 20 September 2016 Domen Kastelic, Olov Isaksson and Marcus Palm made what is likely to be the first ascent of Jang Tsang Go (6300m) in Tibet. The route is called Dom and graded AI4 M5.
Ray Jardine's Friends, a teacup and a blue bag
07/11/2016 - Climbing
Ray Jardine's Friends, a teacup and a blue bag
Maurizio Oviglia recalls the invention of the Friend, the revolutionary camming device invented in the 1970s by the America’s Ray Jardine. A fun story that retraces an important moment in the history of rock climbing.
Petra Klingler / climbing like a Bouldering World Champion in South Korea
04/11/2016 - Climbing
Petra Klingler / climbing like a Bouldering World Champion in South Korea
The World Bouldering Champion Petra Klingler from Switzerland reports about her recent travels to South Korea where she took part in the first Mudeungsan Bouldering Festival.
Via dei Balotini, new rock climb on Torre Argentina in Vallaccia, Dolomites
04/11/2016 - Alpinism
Via dei Balotini, new rock climb on Torre Argentina in Vallaccia, Dolomites
In October 2015 on Torre Argentina in the Vallaccia group (Val di Fassa, Dolomites) the brothers Enrico Geremia and Nicolò Geremia made the first ascent of 'Via dei Balotini', a new rock climb to the right of Via Maffei -...
Mt. Hutsa & Peak 5912m, new international climbs in Genyen massif, Sichuan
01/11/2016 - Alpinism
Mt. Hutsa & Peak 5912m, new international climbs in Genyen massif, Sichuan
New Zealand mountaineer Robert Partridge reports about the international expedition comprised of Peter Linney (EIRE), Luca Vallata & Tito Arosio (IT), James Monypenny, Tom Nichols & Heather Swift (UK) that established various new routes in the Genyen massif of China's...
Dai Koyamada, Alexander Megos and Daniel Jung find Frankenjura friction
31/10/2016 - Climbing
Dai Koyamada, Alexander Megos and Daniel Jung find Frankenjura friction
While Alexander Megos has repeated Becoming, a 9a+ sports climb in Germany’s Frankenjura, Daniel Jung and Dai Koyamada have repeated Corona 9a+ nearby.
Mick Fowler and Victor Saunders / Sersank Himalaya details and photos
30/10/2016 - Alpinism
Mick Fowler and Victor Saunders / Sersank Himalaya details and photos
The details and photos of the first ascent of Sersank Peak (6100m) in the Indian Himalaya, carried out by British alpinists Mick Fowler and Victor Saunders in alpine style over eight days.
Adam Ondra Yosemite Dawn Wall update #2
29/10/2016 - Climbing
Adam Ondra Yosemite Dawn Wall update #2
Update about Adam Ondra and developments from the 'Dawn Wall', the big wall on El Capitan in Yosemite, USA, freed by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson in 2014/2015.
Aiguille d'Entrèves and the climb Cocktail entr'Eve et Salluard. By Enrico Bonino
27/10/2016 - Alpinism
Aiguille d'Entrèves and the climb Cocktail entr'Eve et Salluard. By Enrico Bonino
Enrico Bonino talks about a modern interpretation of the Salluard climbs (plus variations) up the West Face of Aguille d'Entrèves in the Mont Blanc massif. The route was climbed in two stages, on 20/10/2016 by Enrico Bonino and Andrea Racchelli,...
Kyzyl Asker success for Ines Papert and Luka Lindič
26/10/2016 - Alpinism
Kyzyl Asker success for Ines Papert and Luka Lindič
Alpinists Luka Lindič and Ines Papert have made the first ascent of 'Lost in China' (ED, WI 5+, M6, 1200m) up the SE Face of Kyzyl Asker (5842m), Kyrgyzstan.
Black Pearl, new Riegler rock climb in Val Lunga, Dolomites
25/10/2016 - Alpinism
Black Pearl, new Riegler rock climb in Val Lunga, Dolomites
Florian Riegler reports about the first ascent of Black Pearl (8a+, 170m) a new multi-pitch route he first ascended with his brother Martin Riegler in Val Lunga, Dolomites.
Stefano Ghisolfi and Janja Garnbret win Lead World Cup in Xiamen
25/10/2016 - Competitions
Stefano Ghisolfi and Janja Garnbret win Lead World Cup in Xiamen
Last weekend the sixth stage of the Lead World Cup 2016 took place in Xiamen, China, won by Italy’s Stefano Ghisolfi and Slovenia’s Janja Garnbret. While Klaudia Buczek and Stanislav Kokorin won the final stage of the Speed World Cup,...
Brenta Dolomites: new rock climb up Cima Tosa
24/10/2016 - Alpinism
Brenta Dolomites: new rock climb up Cima Tosa
On Cima Tosa in the Brenta Dolomites (Italy) Paolo Baroldi, Filippo Mosca and Francesco Salvaterra have established Pilastro Nord, a new 700m rock climb that completes and attempt carried out in 1981 by Gianni Giudicati and Piercarlo Berta.

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