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Rapunzel on Sass de la Crusc, new Dolomites mixed climb by Simon Messner and Manuel Baumgartner
16/01/2020 - Alpinism
Rapunzel on Sass de la Crusc, new Dolomites mixed climb by Simon Messner and Manuel Baumgartner
On Sass de la Crusc / Heiligkreuzkofel in the Dolomites, the South Tyrolean mountaineers Simon Messner and Manuel Baumgartner have made the first ascent of Rapunzel, a new ice and mixed climb graded WI6+ M7+.
Valnontey - Cogne ice climbing ban to protect Bearded Vulture
03/01/2020 - Alpinism
Valnontey - Cogne ice climbing ban to protect Bearded Vulture
A temporary ice climbing ban has been enacted in Valnontey (Cogne, Italy) to protect nesting bearded vulture. The Gran Paradiso National Park commission and the Cogne mountain guides have produced a Decalogue aimed at protecting the local wildlife.
Dolomites ice climbing: Val Lasties Solo per un altro Hashtag integritas
14/12/2019 - Alpinism
Dolomites ice climbing: Val Lasties Solo per un altro Hashtag integritas
In Val Lasties, Sella, Dolomites, Santiago Padrós and Diego Toigo have repeated the icefall Solo per un altro Hashtag avoiding the first mixed pitch. This is perhaps the first time that this pearl of the Dolomites has been climbed entirely...
Dave MacLeod quashes his Mind Riot, new E10 trad climb at Binnein Shuas in Scotland
05/10/2019 - Climbing
Dave MacLeod quashes his Mind Riot, new E10 trad climb at Binnein Shuas in Scotland
Scottish rock climber Dave MacLeod has made the first ascent of Mind Riot at Binnein Shuas in Scotland. Graded E10 7a, it stands as one of the most difficult trad climbs in the country.
Eiger North Face Meltdown established rope solo by Robert Jasper
02/10/2019 - Alpinism
Eiger North Face Meltdown established rope solo by Robert Jasper
German mountain guide Robert Jasper has made a rope solo first ascent of Meltdown up the North Face of the Eiger in Switzerland.
Fred Nicole and Giuliano Cameroni, two climbing legends send Legacy in Rocklands
17/09/2019 - Climbing
Fred Nicole and Giuliano Cameroni, two climbing legends send Legacy in Rocklands
At Rocklands in South Africa the Swiss climbers Giuliano Cameroni and Fred Nicole have both climbed Legacy, a 9a sports climb.
Sébastien Bouin tames La Rage d’Adam in Verdon Gorge
07/09/2019 - Climbing
Sébastien Bouin tames La Rage d’Adam in Verdon Gorge
French climber Sébastien Bouin has made the first ascent of La Rage d’Adam in the Verdon Gorges. Graded 9b/+, this currently stands as one of the most difficult sport climbs in France.
Big new rock climb up Langkofel in Dolomites
16/08/2019 - Alpinism
Big new rock climb up Langkofel in Dolomites
On the north face of Langkofel / Sassolungo in the Dolomites, Aaron Moroder, Titus Prinoth and Matteo Vinatzer have made the first ascent of Parole Sante, a new1050m route with difficulties up to VIII A1.
Roger Schaeli, Sean Villanueva on Eiger first one day ascent of La Vida es Silbar
15/08/2019 - Alpinism
Roger Schaeli, Sean Villanueva on Eiger first one day ascent of La Vida es Silbar
Details of the first one-day ascent of La Vida es Silbar up the North Face of the Eiger in Switzerland, carried out on 23 July by Roger Schaeli and Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll.
Jorge Díaz-Rullo dials Biographie at Céüse in France
14/07/2019 - Climbing
Jorge Díaz-Rullo dials Biographie at Céüse in France
Spaniard Jorge Díaz-Rullo has repeated Biographie, the 9a+ at Ceuse freed by Chris Sharma in 2001 and recognised as a benchmark for its grade
Robert Leistner climbs cutting edge traditional Elbsandstein masterpiece
12/07/2019 - Interviews
Robert Leistner climbs cutting edge traditional Elbsandstein masterpiece
German rock climber Robert Leistner has made the first free ascent of Vertreibung der letzten Idealisten up the Nonnengärtner tower in the Elbsandstein massif in Germany. Graded 12a, or French 8c, this is now the most difficult climb in the...
Zaila Rakhmetov, a force of nature
06/06/2019 - Climbing
Zaila Rakhmetov, a force of nature
Updates about Zaila Rakhmetov, the daughter of Guzel and Salavat Rakhmetov who in 2010 was seriously injured in a climbing accident in Turkey when she was 5 years old.
Denis Trento and his exceptional spring ski mountaineering in Valle d'Aosta
05/06/2019 - Alpinism
Denis Trento and his exceptional spring ski mountaineering in Valle d'Aosta
Anomalous spring conditions across the Alps were exploited to the max by Denis Trento who managed to ski almost every day up in the Valle d’Aosta mountains. While “seeking the best conditions rather than famous descents”, Trento’s mountaineering always starts...
Val di Mello: agreement reached for contested path for the disabled
17/05/2019 - Environment
Val di Mello: agreement reached for contested path for the disabled
After months of controversy concerning a planned expansion in Val di Mello, Italy, of an existing path that would make it accessible to wheelchairs and the disabled, an agreement has now been reached to protect the pristine valley. The peaceful...
Brazilians blaze big new climb up Ulamertorsuaq in Greenland
26/04/2019 - Alpinism
Brazilians blaze big new climb up Ulamertorsuaq in Greenland
Vinicius Todero reports about a 40-day climbing trip to southern Greenland with fellow Brazilian climber Marcos Costa in August 2018, during which the two repeated the famous Moby Dick on Ulamertorsuaq and, on the west face of the same mountain,...
Melloblocco... an end and new beginning
16/04/2019 - Climbing
Melloblocco... an end and new beginning
Melloblocco, the largest climbing meeting in the world that has taken place for 14 years in Val Masino - Val di Mello before going on tour to Cresciano in Switzerland, will not take place this May as per tradition.

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