138 News found

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La Legrima, Adam Holzknecht and Hubert Moroder make first ascent of the icefall on Sassolungo North Face
18/01/2013 - Alpinism
La Legrima, Adam Holzknecht and Hubert Moroder make first ascent of the icefall on Sassolungo North Face
On 7 and 8 January 2013 the Catores Mountain Guides Adam Holzknecht and Hubert Moroder made the first ascent of "La Legrima" (WI6 M6 V+, two sections of A0), the great ice and mixed line up the North Face of...
Psyco Killer, the great icefall on Tofana di Mezzo, Dolomites
17/01/2013 - Alpinism
Psyco Killer, the great icefall on Tofana di Mezzo, Dolomites
On 12/01/2013 Beppe Ballico, Andrea Gamberini and Marco Milanese made what is likely to be the first ascent of the icefall Psyco Killer (IV+, WI7-, D5, 225m) on the Tofana di Mezzo (Dolomites).
Orient Express on Gran Sasso, the story of the first winter attempt and the strength of a partnership
15/01/2013 - Alpinism
Orient Express on Gran Sasso, the story of the first winter attempt and the strength of a partnership
On 30/12/2012 Andrea Di Donato, Andrea Di Pascasio and Lorenzo Angelozzi attempted the first winter ascent of Orient Express, but were stopped by Angelozzi's massive fall. Fortunately there were no serious consequences. Andrea Di Pascasio recounts the story.
Wolverine and the first WI 11 in the history of ice climbing
10/01/2013 - Alpinism
Wolverine and the first WI 11 in the history of ice climbing
A brief analysis of the new grade WI 11, put forward for the first time in February 2012 by Klemen Premrl and Tim Emmett after having freed the single pitch ice climb Wolverine at the Helmcken Falls (Canada).
Alpinism and climbing in 2012 - part 1
02/01/2013 - Alpinism
Alpinism and climbing in 2012 - part 1
Part one of what happend, in alpinism and in climbing, in 2012. A summary, for obvious reason incomplete, of the climbs, the most beautiful achievements and also the most painful moments in 2012. In the hope that this résumé serves...
Jacopo Larcher 8b+ onsight at Montsant
29/12/2012 - Climbing
Jacopo Larcher 8b+ onsight at Montsant
While Italian climbers Gabriele Moroni and Silvio Reffo are now at Siurana, at Montsant in Spain Jacopo Larcher has onsighted his second 8b+, Les Elements.
Matterhorn, Via Casarotto - Grassi on Pic Tyndall climbed by Farina, Cazzanelli and Ferraris
26/11/2012 - Alpinism
Matterhorn, Via Casarotto - Grassi on Pic Tyndall climbed by Farina, Cazzanelli and Ferraris
On 17-18/11/2012 Marco Farina, François Cazzanelli and Roby Ferraris made a fast and great repeat of the route first ascended by Renato Casarotto and Gian Carlo Grassi in 1983 up the South Face of the Matterhorn which exits onto Pic...
The lucky ice climber on Kennedy’s Gully
03/07/2012 - Climbing
The lucky ice climber on Kennedy’s Gully
Video of a lucky ice climber, saved in extremis on Kennedy’s Gully, an ice climb at the Ouray Ice Park, Colorado (USA).
Bernasconi and Pedeferri and the first winter ascent Spada nella Roccia, Qualido, Val di Mello
21/09/2011 - Alpinism
Bernasconi and Pedeferri and the first winter ascent Spada nella Roccia, Qualido, Val di Mello
The video of the first winter ascent of Spada nella Roccia, Qualido, in Val di Mello (Val Masino) carried out by Daniele Bernasconi and Simone Pedeferri in February 2011.
Hallucinogen Wall, first free ascent by Hansjörg Auer
27/05/2011 - Climbing
Hallucinogen Wall, first free ascent by Hansjörg Auer
Interview with Austrian climber Hansjörg Auer after the 22 April first free ascent of Hallucinogen Wall 5.13+/R in the Black Canyon, Colorado, USA.
Dolasilla, new Fanes mixed route in the Dolomites
06/04/2011 - Alpinism
Dolasilla, new Fanes mixed route in the Dolomites
Florian Riegler has established Dolasilla (M13-), a new mixed route in Val Travenanzes (Fanes massif, Dolomites). The first free ascent was carried out by Pavol Rajcan from Slovak Republic.
Goulotte fantasma on Punta Sant'anna
23/02/2011 - Alpinism
Goulotte fantasma on Punta Sant'anna
On 6 February 2011 the Italians Luca Maspes, Annalisa Bonfanti and Anna Ceruti climbed Goulotte Santanna (250m) up the South East Face of Sant'Anna 3171m, Val Porcellizzo, Alta Val Masino).
Triglav, hard winter ascent in Slovenia by Grmovsek and Krajnc
16/02/2011 - Alpinism
Triglav, hard winter ascent in Slovenia by Grmovsek and Krajnc
Interview with Andrej Grmovsek who over a three day period in January and February 2011 carried out an extremely important winter ascent up the North Face of Triglav (2864m) together with fellow Slovenian alpinist Luka Krajnc: Sanjski Joža (VI/V,M7+, 1050m).
Pizzo della Pieve, first winter solo by Ivo Ferrari
11/02/2011 - Alpinism
Pizzo della Pieve, first winter solo by Ivo Ferrari
On 25 January 2011 Italian alpinist Ivo Ferrari made the first winter ascent of the Parete Fasana on Pizzo della Pieve (Grigne) by climbing the classic the Via Fasana.
Ice Climbing World Cup 2011: Angelika Rainer and Hee Yong Park World Champions in Busteni
09/02/2011 - Competitions
Ice Climbing World Cup 2011: Angelika Rainer and Hee Yong Park World Champions in Busteni
The third stage of the Ice Climbing World Cup 2011 took place in Busteni, Romania on 5 and 6 February and was won by the Italian Angelika Rainer and Hee Yong Park from Korea. With this vicotry the two are...
Gasherbrum II in winter: Campo 2 for Moro, Urubko and Richards
28/01/2011 - Alpinism
Gasherbrum II in winter: Campo 2 for Moro, Urubko and Richards
On 25 Janaury 2011 Simone Moro, Denis Urubko and Cory Richards installed Camp 2 at 6500m on Gasherbrum II. In doing so they carried out another important step in their attempt to carry out the first winter ascent of the...

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