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The Piolets d'Or 2022 list of significant ascents
16/11/2022 - Alpinism
The Piolets d'Or 2022 list of significant ascents
The organisers of the Piolet d’Or mountaineering award have published the complete list of most significant and innovative climbs carried out in 2021.The prize giving ceremony will be celebrated from 18 to 20 November 2022 at Briançon in France.
Alex Buisse's ten best climbs in the Mont Blanc massif
14/11/2022 - Book-press
Alex Buisse's ten best climbs in the Mont Blanc massif
French photographer Alex Buisse introduces his 10 favourite climbs in the Mont Blanc massif. The routes feature in his stunning photographic topo guide to the range 'Mont Blanc Lines' (Vertebrate Publishing 2022).
Fitz Roy Moonwalk Traverse and Saraghrar NW win Piolets d’Or 2022, Annapurna III SE Ridge receives Special Jury Award
17/10/2022 - Alpinism
Fitz Roy Moonwalk Traverse and Saraghrar NW win Piolets d’Or 2022, Annapurna III SE Ridge receives Special Jury Award
The 2022 Piolets d'Or awards for alpinism will be conferred from 18- 20 November at Briançon in France to Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll of Belgium for his Moonwalk Traverse of the Fitz Roy Group in Patagonia, and to Archil Badriashvili, Baqar Gelashvili and Giorgi Tepnadze from Georgia for the first ascent...
Goodbye to Glen Denny, climber and photographer of Yosemite’s Golden Age
16/10/2022 - Climbing
Goodbye to Glen Denny, climber and photographer of Yosemite’s Golden Age
American rock climber and photographer Glenn Denny (1939 - 2022) has passed away. Author of numerous classics such as west face of Leaning Tower and Astroman, his images captured the Golden Age of rock climbing in Yosemite National Park.
Silvo Karo honoured with Piolet d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award 2022
07/10/2022 - Alpinism
Silvo Karo honoured with Piolet d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award 2022
Slovenian alpinist Silvo Karo is to receive the 14th Piolets d'Or Carrière Lifetime Achievement Award. The prize giving ceremony will be celebrated from 17 to 20 November at Briançon in France. In the past the prestigious mountaineering prize has been awarded to Walter Bonatti, Reinhold Messner, Doug Scott, Robert Paragot,...
Janluca Kostner completes first solo ascent of Chimera Verticale on Civetta, Dolomites
29/09/2022 - Alpinism
Janluca Kostner completes first solo ascent of Chimera Verticale on Civetta, Dolomites
The report by 24-year-old mountain guide Janluca Kostner from Ortisei (Val Gardena, Italy) who between 13 and 14 September 2022 made the first rope-solo ascent of Chimera Verticale on Mt. Civetta (Dolomites). Graded IX, the route on the North west face of Punta Civetta was established between 2007 and 2008...
Colin Haley completes first winter solo of Supercanaleta on Fitz Roy in Patagonia
26/09/2022 - Alpinism
Colin Haley completes first winter solo of Supercanaleta on Fitz Roy in Patagonia
Chamonix-based alpinist Colin Haley has made the first solo winter ascent of the classic Supercanaleta route on Fitz Roy in Patagonia
Cerro Torre - Climb & Fly, Roger Schäli, Mario Heller, Pablo Pontoriero in Patagonia
23/09/2022 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre - Climb & Fly, Roger Schäli, Mario Heller, Pablo Pontoriero in Patagonia
The trailer of Cerro Torre - Climb & Fly, the film that documents the ascent of Cerro Torre in Patagonia carried out by Roger Schäli, Mario Heller and Pablo Pontoriero, and their subsequent paraglide flight off the summit.
Watch GMHM first ascent of BASE on Petit Dru West Face
12/09/2022 - Alpinism
Watch GMHM first ascent of BASE on Petit Dru west face
Watch the documentary about the first ascent of BASE, the mixed route on the west face of the Drus in the Mont Blanc massif climbed in February 2021 by Thomas Auvaro, Léo Billon, Jordi Noguere and Sébastien Ratel belonging to the Chamonix High Mountain Military Group.
Alexander Huber frees Ramayana on Waidringer Steinplatte in Austria
06/09/2022 - Climbing
Alexander Huber frees Ramayana on Waidringer Steinplatte in Austria
On the 18th of July German climber Alexander Huber made the first free ascent of Ramayana, a 6-pitch 8b+ on Waidringer Steinplatte in Austria.
Peak Slesova Buttress: Federica Mingolla, Niccolò Bartoli establish a big wall in Kyrgyzstan’s Ak-Su Valley
25/08/2022 - Alpinism
Peak Slesova Buttress: Federica Mingolla, Niccolò Bartoli establish a big wall in Kyrgyzstan’s Ak-Su Valley
In the Ak-Su Valley in the Pamir Alay in Kyrgyzstan, Italian alpinists Federica Mingolla and Niccolò Bartoli have made the first ascent of Vivere la vita, an 800m big wall with difficulties up to on the South Buttress of Pik Slesova, also referred to as Peak 3850m.
New Gstellihorn climbs in Switzerland by Yannick Glatthard, Jonas Schild
20/08/2022 - Alpinism
New Gstellihorn climbs in Switzerland by Yannick Glatthard, Jonas Schild
Yannick Glatthard and Jonas Schild have established Stiller-Has (280m, 7c+/8a?) and Wilde Has (350m, 7b?) on Gstellihorn in Switzerland’s Bernese Oberland.
AramsamsAnna on Pilastro di Misurina in Dolomites, Italy
05/08/2022 - Alpinism
AramsamsAnna on Pilastro di Misurina in Dolomites, Italy
Peter Manhartsberger and Florian Wenter have made the first ascent of AramsamsAnna (6c+, 150m), a new multi-pitch rock climb on Pilastro di Misurina in the Cadini Group of the Italian Dolomites.
New climb on Jirishanca in Peru by Alik Berg, Quentin Roberts
29/07/2022 - Alpinism
New climb on Jirishanca in Peru by Alik Berg, Quentin Roberts
Alik Berg and Quentin Roberts have established a new route on Nevado Jirishanca (6094m) in Peru. The complex line is called Reino Hongo and graded 5.8/90°/M7.
Adieu Marcel Rémy
11/07/2022 - Alpinism
Adieu Marcel Rémy
Swiss mountaineer Marcel Rémy, father of the famous alpinists and rock climbers Yves and Claude Remy, has died at the age of 99
Nanga Parbat Aosta Valley Express variation climbed by François Cazzanelli, Pietro Picco
27/06/2022 - Alpinism
Nanga Parbat Aosta Valley Express variation climbed by François Cazzanelli, Pietro Picco
On the Diamir face of Nanga Parbat the Italian mountaineers François Cazzanelli and Pietro Picco have added a difficult new variation start to the Kinshofer route. Called Valle d'Aosta Express, the 1400m addition breaches difficulties up to AI 90° M6 85°, and was climbed on 26 June.