926 News found

02/03/2023 - Alpinism
Pizzo Badile Corti-Battaglia first winter ascent by David Hefti, Marcel Schenk On 14 February 2023 Swiss mountaineers David Hefti and Marcel Schenk made the coveted first winter ascent of the Corti-Battaglia route on Pizzo Badile (3308m). Established in 1953 by Claudio Corti and Felice Battaglia, this climb was the first to breach the mountain's east face. Schenk, who in 2016 established...

17/02/2023 - Alpinism
New mixed climb on Aiguille Noire du Peuterey by François Cazzanelli, Emrik Favre, Stefano Stradelli From the 12th to 13th of February 2023, Italian alpinists François Cazzanelli, Emrik Favre and Stefano Stradelli established Couloir Isaïe, a new mixed climb on Punta Brendel on the west face of the Aiguille Noire du Peuterey (3,773 m) in the Mont Blanc massif.

14/02/2023 - Alpinism
New big wall climb on Cerro El Monstruo in Valle Cochamo by Antar Machado, Cristobal Senoret From 8 - 9 February 2023 Antar Machado and Cristobal Señoret have made the first ascent of 'La Chilenita' (1,200m 5.11+ A0) on Cerro El Monstruo, Valle Cochamo, Patagonia, Chile.

03/02/2023 - Alpinism
Difficult new mixed climb on Barre des Écrins by Julien Cruvellier de Luze, Nicolas Jean, Benjamin Védrines Between 28 and 29 January 2023 the French alpinists Julien Cruvellier, Nicolas Jean and Benjamin Védrines made the first ascent of 'De l'Or en Barre' a difficult mixed climb on the south face of the Barre des Écrins (4102 m). The mixed climb follows a treacherous couloir, infamous in summer...

27/01/2023 - Alpinism
Lest we forget: the Italian racial laws, the Italian Mountaineering club and its Jewish members In December 1938 a 'highly confidential' internal document from the National Council of the Italian Mountaineering Club (CAI) sent to all its sections indicated the criteria for purging members of the 'non-Aryan race'. As a result hundreds, guilty of simply being Jews, did not have their membership renewed. Today the...

24/01/2023 - Alpinism
Ukrainian mountaineers Grigory Grigoryev and Alexander Zakolodny die in Russia-Ukraine war 35-year-old mountaineers Grigory Grigoryev and Alexander Zakolodny died on 21 January close to the city of Soledar in Ukraine. After dedicating their lives to climbing and mountaineering, they perished while in battle. Zakolodny was a successful Himalayan mountaineer and had earned the prestigious Snow Leopard award.

20/01/2023 - Interviews
Hervé Barmasse, David Göttler and their Dhaulagiri winter alpine style attempt Interview with the mountaineers Hervé Barmasse and David Göttler, currently attempting to climb Dhaulagiri (8167 m) in winter and in alpine style.

16/01/2023 - Alpinism
New route on Aguja Mermoz in Patagonia by Matteo Della Bordella, Leo Gheza, Sean Villanueva On 10/01/2023 Matteo Della Bordella, Leo Gheza and Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll completed the first ascent of '¿Qué mirás, bobo?' (7b, 500m) on the east face of Aguja Mermoz (2732m) in the Fitz Roy massif in Patagonia. After a bivouac on the summit the trio descended to El Chalten the next...

13/01/2023 - Alpinism
The High Life: the story of Sarah Cartier at Refuge de la Charpoua (Mont Blanc massif) The docufilm The High Life that tells the story of Sarah Cartier and her young family, the hut wardens of Refuge de la Charpoua below Les Drus and Aiguille Verte in the Mont Blanc massif.

06/01/2023 - Alpinism
Manaslu climbed in winter by Alex Txikon & team Alex Txikon, with Pasang Nurbu Sherpa, Gelu Sherpa, Maila Sherpa, Mantere Lama Sherpa, Gamje Babu Sherpa and Chepal Sherpa, summited Manaslu in winter and without supplementary oxygen. This is the first integral winter ascent of the 8th highest mountain in the world, i.e. during the astronomical winter.

26/12/2022 - Alpinism
Watch Christophe Dumarest & Tom Livingstone climb No Siesta on Grandes Jorasses The video of Tom Livingstone and Christophe Dumarest repeating No Siesta on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses.

23/12/2022 - Alpinism
Climbing community, be the voice of oppressed Iranian mountaineers! An appeal has been launched in favour of five mountaineers from Iran, Dena Sheybani, Mohammed Khiveh, Eshragh Najafabadi, Amir Arslan Mahdavi and Hessam Mousavi, arrested recently during the country-wide protests sparked by the death in custody of Mahsa Amini in mid-September and reportedly in grave danger. By French journalist Claude...

05/12/2022 - Alpinism
New route on Lasunayoc in Peru’s Cordillera Vilcabamba by Nathan Heald, Leo Rasalio Nathan Heald reports about the first ascent of new route up the SE Face of Nevado Lasunayoc (5,936m) in the Pumasillo massif of the Cordillera Vilcabamba in Peru. The new mixed climb, carried out with local mountaineer Leo Rasalio, is only the 9th documented ascent of this peak.

28/11/2022 - Alpinism
Annapurna III Piolet d'Or 2022 video The video of the first ascent of the southeast ridge of Annapurna III (7,555m), carried out by Nikita Balabanov, Mikail Fomin and Viacheslav Polezhaiko. The climb received a Special Jury Award at the Piolets d'Or 2022.

31/10/2022 - Alpinism
Watch Tim Miller, Paul Ramsden establish The Phantom Line on Jugal Spire in Nepal The video documenting the first ascent of The Phantom Line (1200m, ED+) on the North Face of Jugal Spire in Nepal, carried out alpine style in April 2022 by British mountaineers Tim Miller and Paul Ramsden.

17/10/2022 - Alpinism
Fitz Roy Moonwalk Traverse and Saraghrar NW win Piolets d’Or 2022, Annapurna III SE Ridge receives Special Jury Award The 2022 Piolets d'Or awards for alpinism will be conferred from 18- 20 November at Briançon in France to Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll of Belgium for his Moonwalk Traverse of the Fitz Roy Group in Patagonia, and to Archil Badriashvili, Baqar Gelashvili and Giorgi Tepnadze from Georgia for the first ascent...
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