The news

105
News in archive
Hotel Supramonte, do masterpieces age? The story of extraordinary maintenance of an extraordinary climb
14/11/2012 - Climbing
Hotel Supramonte, do masterpieces age? The story of extraordinary maintenance of an extraordinary climb
Maurizio Oviglia reports about the recent rebolting of the famous rock climb Hotel Supramonte. Established in 1998/99 by Rolando Larcher and Roberto Vigiani, Sardina’s famous multi-pitch has now been restored to its former glory by Larcher and Oviglia, with the...
Sardinia, 4 new rocks climbs on Monte Oddeu
12/11/2012 - Climbing
Sardinia, 4 new rocks climbs on Monte Oddeu
Four new rock climbs have seen the light of day in the Monte Oddeu massif (Dorgali, Sardinia). These 200m outings are entirely bolt protected, climb, splendid rock and fit in to "plaisir" category.
Water and rock 2012, the Sardinian climbing meeting at Roccadoria Monteleone
10/10/2012 - Events
Water and rock 2012, the Sardinian climbing meeting at Roccadoria Monteleone
The climbing meeting "L'acqua e la roccia" will take place on 20 and 21 October 2012 at Roccadoria Monteleone, Sardinia.
L’orologio senza tempo, Punta Figari and Giova Massari's 50th birthday
09/10/2012 - Climbing
L’orologio senza tempo, Punta Figari and Giova Massari's 50th birthday
Last August Giovannino Massari and Paolo Seimandi re-equipped L'orologio senza tempo, the historic rock climb established in 1982 by Massari and Andrea Parodi up the East Face of Punta Figari (Gruppo Castello - Provenzale). The report by Paolo Seimandi.
Ala Daglar, climbing in Turkey through the eyes of Petit and Bodet
18/09/2012 - Alpinism
Ala Daglar, climbing in Turkey through the eyes of Petit and Bodet
Arnaud Petit and Stephanie Bodet recently climbed in the Ala Daglar massif in Turkey where they carried out, amongst others, the first repeat of Red moon and Star put up by Rolando Larcher and Luca Giupponi.
Dogan Palut, the Turkish climbing interview
06/09/2012 - Interviews
Dogan Palut, the Turkish climbing interview
Maurizio Oviglia interviews Dogan Palut, one of the most talented and famous climbers in Turkey.
Bavella 2012, two new rock climbs in Corsica by Giupponi, Larcher, Oviglia and Sartori
21/05/2012 - Climbing
Bavella 2012, two new rock climbs in Corsica by Giupponi, Larcher, Oviglia and Sartori
At the start of May 2012 in Corsica's Bavella massif the Italians Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia made the first ascent of Vecchia Felpa on Punta U Peru (190m, 7c max /RS2/I) while Luca Giupponi and Nicola Sartori made the...
Petzl Rock Trip - Valley Gétû, China
11/11/2011 - Climbing
Petzl Rock Trip - Valley Gétû, China
From 26 to 30 October 2011 the 10th Petzl Rock Trip took place in Getu Valley, China. Many of the world's best climbers took part in the event dedicated to climbing and partying. Gabriele Moroni from Italy managed to free...
Millennium Bug at Cala Gonone, new route by Luca Giupponi and Maurizio Oviglia in Sardinia
10/11/2011 - Climbing
Millennium Bug at Cala Gonone, new route by Luca Giupponi and Maurizio Oviglia in Sardinia
On 19/10/2011 Luca Giupponi and Maurizio Oviglia freed Millennium Bug (7b+, 110m), their new multi-pitch outing established ground-up across the beautiful Millennium cave at Cala Gonone in Sardinia. A particular route, perhaps unique even. The report by Maurizio Oviglia.
Trad climbing at Capo Pecora, Sardinia
06/09/2011 - Climbing
Trad climbing at Capo Pecora, Sardinia
Maurizio Oviglia introduces a new seaside trad climbing paradise: 25 routes from 5a to 7a at Capo Pecora in Sardinia.
Arthur Kubista, a 9a+ for his 45th birthday
10/11/2009 - Climbing
Arthur Kubista, a 9a+ for his 45th birthday
45 year old Arthur Kubista has made the first ascent of Der lange Atem 9a+ at Schattenreich, Höllental, Austria. Maurizio Oviglia recounts this latest ascent of one of the strongest and least known Austrian climbers of all times.
Valle dell'Orco, new routes on Sergent
12/10/2008 - Climbing
Valle dell'Orco, new routes on Sergent
At the end of September and the start of October Maurizio Oviglia, Sara Oviglia, Paolo Seimandi and Eugenio Pinotti completed two new multi-pitch routes on the Sergent rock face in Valle Orco. They then added two single pitches to the...
Ala Daglar, Turkey, two new routes for Larcher, Oviglia, Paissan
04/08/2005 - Climbing
Ala Daglar, Turkey, two new routes for Larcher, Oviglia, Paissan
In July 2005 Rolando Larcher, Maurizio Oviglia and Michele Paissan made two first ascents in the Ala Daglar mountain chain (Southern Anatolia, Turkey): “Uc Muz”, 650 m, 8a max, 7b obl. on the east face of Demirkazik (3757 m);...
Taghia new route by Oviglia and Sarti
29/09/2004 - Climbing
Taghia new route by Oviglia and Sarti
Maurizio Oviglia and Simone Sarti have made the first ascent of "Enfant de sable" 7a max, 6c obl., on the south face of Jbel Tramazine, High Atlas, Morocco.
Sardinia update
18/06/2004 - Climbing
Sardinia update
New routes in Sardina. Rolando Larcher frees "Il vecchio e il mare" 8b Millennium cave.
Larcher, Oviglia, Paissan rock Morocco
11/11/2003 - Climbing
Larcher, Oviglia, Paissan rock Morocco
From 6 - 27 October 2003 the Italian climbers Rolando Larcher, Michele Paissan and Maurizio Oviglia established Sul filo della notte (7c+ max; 7b obl) in the Taghia gorge, High Atlas, Morocco.