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In memory of Lorenzo Major
20/05/2019 - Climbing
In memory of Lorenzo Major
Paraclimbing champion and talented athlete Lorenzo Major has passed away. This is a huge loss for the entire Paralympic community. Sandro Neri remembers his Italian teammate.
James McHaffie takes trad climbing whipper at Nesscliffe
18/05/2019 - Climbing
James McHaffie takes trad climbing whipper at Nesscliffe
Video of British trad climber James McHaffie taking a long fall off an old trad climbing project at Nesscliffe, England.
Matterhorn Carrel hut restrictions. Interview with Flavio Bich, Cervino guides president
13/05/2019 - Interviews
Matterhorn Carrel hut restrictions. Interview with Flavio Bich, Cervino guides president
Interview with the president of the Cervino mountain guides Flavio Bich, after the decision to restrict the places available in Capanna Carrel, the hut on the Italian side of the Matterhorn, and to make reservation obligatory in the summer months.
Charlie Woodburn’s gritstone masterpiece Harder, Faster at Black Rocks
11/05/2019 - Climbing
Charlie Woodburn’s gritstone masterpiece Harder, Faster at Black Rocks
In November 2000 Charlie Woodburn made the first ascent of Harder, Faster at Black Rocks in England. Almost 20 years later, this remains one of the most dangerous and least repeated trad climbs in Great Britain.
Janja Garnbret the Great commands in China, with Tomoa Narasaki
07/05/2019 - Competitions
Janja Garnbret the Great commands in China, with Tomoa Narasaki
The fourth stage of the Bouldering World Cup 2019 took place at Wujiang in China last weekend and was won by Janja Garnbret from Slovenia and Tomoa Narasaki from Japan. Akiyo Noguchi and Kai Horada placed second, Ai Mori and Jakob Schubert third
Aleksandra Rudzinska and Dmitrii Timofeev fastest in China
04/05/2019 - Competitions
Aleksandra Rudzinska and Dmitrii Timofeev fastest in China
The third stage of the Speed World Cup 2019 was won last night by Dmitrii Timofeev and Aleksandra Rudzinska at Wujiang in China.
Greenspit, the dream of a generation climbed in Valle Orco by Matteo della Bordella, Francesco Deiana
03/05/2019 - Climbing
Greenspit, the dream of a generation climbed in Valle Orco by Matteo della Bordella, Francesco Deiana
Matteo della Bordella and Francesco Deiana have both repeated Greenspit, one of the most famous crack climbs in the world in Valle Orco freed by Didier Berthod.
Caroline Sinno at Fontainebleau climbs her first 8B, L'insoutenable Légèreté de l'Autre
02/05/2019 - Climbing
Caroline Sinno at Fontainebleau climbs her first 8B, L'insoutenable Légèreté de l'Autre
French climber Caroline Sinno has climbed her first 8B boulder problem, L'insoutenable Légèreté de l'Autre, at Fontainebleau
Piotr Schab fires Fight or Flight 9b at Oliana
02/05/2019 - Climbing
Piotr Schab fires Fight or Flight 9b at Oliana
Sport climbing in Spain: Piotr Schab from Poland has redpointed his first 9b, Fight or Flight established by Chris Sharma at Oliana in Spain.
Jannu East Face, Dmitry Golovchenko and Sergey Nilov complete their Unfinished Sympathy
30/04/2019 - Interviews
Jannu East Face, Dmitry Golovchenko and Sergey Nilov complete their Unfinished Sympathy
Interview with Dmitry Golovchenko after the 18-day alpine style first ascent of a new route up the East Face of Jannu in the Nepalese Himalaya with Sergey Nilov. The two Russian mountaineers have called their climb Unfinished Sympathy (ED, 2500m)
Brazilians blaze big new climb up Ulamertorsuaq in Greenland
26/04/2019 - Alpinism
Brazilians blaze big new climb up Ulamertorsuaq in Greenland
Vinicius Todero reports about a 40-day climbing trip to southern Greenland with fellow Brazilian climber Marcos Costa in August 2018, during which the two repeated the famous Moby Dick on Ulamertorsuaq and, on the west face of the same mountain, established a 1000m new climb called Quajanaq. This shares sections...
Piz Dolf North Face ski descent by Marco Cavalli, Sébastien de Sainte Marie
Piz Dolf North Face ski descent by Marco Cavalli, Sébastien de Sainte Marie
Sébastien de Sainte Marie and Marco Cavalli have skied what is likely to the first descent of the North Face of Piz Dolf / Trinserhorn (3027m) in the Swiss Alps. de Sainte Marie reports.
Hansjörg Auer, David Lama, Jess Roskelley: the families bid farewell
23/04/2019 - Alpinism
Hansjörg Auer, David Lama, Jess Roskelley: the families bid farewell
On Sunday 21 April 2019 the bodies of mountaineers Hansjörg Auer, David Lama and Jess Roskelley were recovered after being caught by an avalanche on Howse Peak in Canada last week. We publish the press release of Parks Canada and also the farewells of the respective families.
David Lama, Hansjörg Auer, Jess Roskelley: farewell to three great mountaineers
19/04/2019 - Alpinism
David Lama, Hansjörg Auer, Jess Roskelley: farewell to three great mountaineers
Hansjörg Auer, David Lama, Jess Roskelley have perished while climbing Howse Peak, a difficult and remote mountain in the Canadian Rockies. Initially reported as missing, their deaths have been confirmed by the parents of David Lama and Jess Roskelley. The loss of this world class trio of alpinists is unfathomable.
Arc'teryx Alpine Academy 2019, last places available for upcoming clinics
18/04/2019 - Alpinism
Arc'teryx Alpine Academy 2019, last places available for upcoming clinics
Tickets are running out for the Arcteryx Alpine Academy 2019, scheduled to take place from 4 to 7 July 2019 Chamonix, France. This unique event offers climbers of all abilities to learn more about climbing and alpinism directly on Mont Blanc.
Ice climbing in Val Pramper, Dolomites: new mixed route La Piccola Sgualdrina
18/04/2019 - Alpinism
Ice climbing in Val Pramper, Dolomites: new mixed route La Piccola Sgualdrina
In January 2019 Francesco Fazzi and Matteo Pilon made the first ascent of La Piccola Sgualdrina (130m M8 WI5 III), a new mixed route up in Val Pramper, Dolomites, immediately next to the famous icefall Gran Dama. Fazzi, a mountain guide from Val di Zoldo, reports.

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