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The routes climbing photographers dream of
28/11/2016 - Climbing
The routes climbing photographers dream of
Separate Reality climbed free solo by Wolfgang Güllich and Heinz Zak, Greenspit in Valle dell’Orco by Didier Berthod and Fred Moix. Maurizio Oviglia takes a closer look at the link between photographers and the climbs they have photographed.
Adam Ondra: the Dawn Wall El Capitan interview
25/11/2016 - Interviews
Adam Ondra: the Dawn Wall El Capitan interview
Interview with Czech rock climber Adam Ondra who, leading all pitches from 14 to 21 November 2016, completed the second free ascent of Dawn Wall on El Capitan, Yosemite. Considered the hardest big wall in the world, this climb was freed by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson between 2014 and...
Alpinism on Pizzo Badile: interview with Marcel Schenk and Simon Gietl after Amore di Vetro
23/11/2016 - Interviews
Alpinism on Pizzo Badile: interview with Marcel Schenk and Simon Gietl after Amore di Vetro
Interview with Marcel Schenk and Simon Gietl after the first ascent of 'Amore di Vetro' (800m, M5, R) a new ice and mixed climb up the NE Face of Pizzo Badile (3303m) Alps.
Magnificat, new rock climb at Capo d'Uomo in Tuscany
23/11/2016 - Climbing
Magnificat, new rock climb at Capo d'Uomo in Tuscany
A new multi-pitch rock climb at Capo d’Uomo, Argentario, Italy: Magnificat (6b+, 80m), first ascended by the Mountain Guide Eraldo Meraldi and dedicated to Roberto Iannilli.
New Catalan climbs in Nepal
22/11/2016 - Alpinism
New Catalan climbs in Nepal
Catalan mountaineers Oriol Baró, Roger Cararach and Santiago Padrós have climbed two new routes on Nepal’s 6000m peaks: 'Pilar Dudh Khunda' up the SSW arete of Karyolung (6511m) and 'Nepali Sun' which terminates at 6900m on the South Face of Numbur (6959m).
Jorg Verhoeven and the El Capitan Dihedral Wall interview
21/11/2016 - Interviews
Jorg Verhoeven and the El Capitan Dihedral Wall interview
Interview with Dutch climber Jorg Verhoeven after the second free ascent of Dihedral Wall, the difficult big wall climb freed in 2004 by Tommy Caldwell on El Capitan in Yosemite, USA.
Shifting Dreams: Caroline Ciavaldini climbing Voie Petit, Grand Capucin
21/11/2016 - Alpinism
Shifting Dreams: Caroline Ciavaldini climbing Voie Petit, Grand Capucin
The documentary tracing the efforts of French climber Caroline Ciavaldini to make the first female free ascent of Voie Petit (8b, 450m), the difficult multi-pitch climb up Grand Capucin in the Mont Blanc massif.
Via RoMa, new climb on Grandes Jorasses
17/11/2016 - Alpinism
Via RoMa, new climb on Grandes Jorasses
From 26 - 28 August 2016 the Russian mountaineers Maxim Foygel and Roman Gorodischenskiy made the first ascent of 'Via RoMa' (ED 1350m 6a A2), a new route on the East Face of Pointe Walker (4208m), Grandes Jorasses (Alps). The new route shares the start of Pilastro Rosso and finishes...
Aurora Artika, discovering the climbing in Greenland's Mythic Circle
17/11/2016 - Alpinism
Aurora Artika, discovering the climbing in Greenland's Mythic Circle
Paolo Marazzi talks about his 'sailing and climbing' experience in Greenland’s Mythic Circle. The result: two new 800m climbs and above all though ‘an absolutely unique adventure in the North Sea.’
World Youth Climbing Championships: Shiraishi, Avezou, Garnbret, Bendazzoli, Hayes & Lorenzi win in China
09/11/2016 - Competitions
World Youth Climbing Championships: Shiraishi, Avezou, Garnbret, Bendazzoli, Hayes & Lorenzi win in China
The World Youth Championships are currently being held at Guangzhou in China. The Lead discipline was won by Ashima Shiraishi and Sam Avezou (Youth B), Janja Garnbret and Giorgio Bendazzoli (Youth A) and Margo Hayes and Simon Lorenzi (Juniors)
Tre Cime di Lavaredo, on Cima Grande Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini establish Das Erbe der Väter
08/11/2016 - Alpinism
Tre Cime di Lavaredo, on Cima Grande Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini establish Das Erbe der Väter
Interview with South Tyrol’s Simon Gietl who, together with, Vittorio Messini made the first ascent of ‘Das Erbe der Väter’ up the North Face of Cima Grande di Lavaredo in the Dolomites. After sharing a start with Via Comici, the new route runs to the right, breaches difficulties up to...
Chris Sharma / 'Perfecto Mundo' project at Margalef
05/11/2016 - Climbing
Chris Sharma / 'Perfecto Mundo' project at Margalef
The video of American climber Chris Sharma attempting 'Perfecto Mundo' a possible 9b+ project at Margalef, Spain.
Marek Raganowicz solo climbs Plastic Surgery Disaster on El Capitan
04/11/2016 - Climbing
Marek Raganowicz solo climbs Plastic Surgery Disaster on El Capitan
From 5 to 20 October 2016 Marek Raganowicz made what is believed to be only the second solo ascent of Plastic Surgery Disaster, the A5 aid climb put up in 1991 by Eric Kohl on El Capitan, Yosemite, USA.
Petra Klingler / climbing like a Bouldering World Champion in South Korea
04/11/2016 - Climbing
Petra Klingler / climbing like a Bouldering World Champion in South Korea
The World Bouldering Champion Petra Klingler from Switzerland reports about her recent travels to South Korea where she took part in the first Mudeungsan Bouldering Festival.
Mt. Hutsa & Peak 5912m, new international climbs in Genyen massif, Sichuan
01/11/2016 - Alpinism
Mt. Hutsa & Peak 5912m, new international climbs in Genyen massif, Sichuan
New Zealand mountaineer Robert Partridge reports about the international expedition comprised of Peter Linney (EIRE), Luca Vallata & Tito Arosio (IT), James Monypenny, Tom Nichols & Heather Swift (UK) that established various new routes in the Genyen massif of China's Sichuan province including the first ascents of Mt. Hutsa (5863m)...
Dai Koyamada, Alexander Megos and Daniel Jung find Frankenjura friction
31/10/2016 - Climbing
Dai Koyamada, Alexander Megos and Daniel Jung find Frankenjura friction
While Alexander Megos has repeated Becoming, a 9a+ sports climb in Germany’s Frankenjura, Daniel Jung and Dai Koyamada have repeated Corona 9a+ nearby.

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