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Action Directe 9a climbed by Gabriele Moroni, too
18/04/2010 - Climbing
Action Directe 9a climbed by Gabriele Moroni, too
Gabriele Moroni and the first Italian ascent of Action Directe 9a, the route freed by Wolfgang Güllich in 1991 and which still today represents an important test for sport climbing.
Piolet d'Or, the winners and alpinism of the future
12/04/2010 - Events
Piolet d'Or, the winners and alpinism of the future
The Piolets d'or 2010 were won by Denis Urubko and Boris Dedechko for their route on Cho Oyu and by Jed Brown, Kyle Dempster and Bruce Normand for their route up Xuelian West. Reinhold Messner received the lifetime achievement award; Walter Bonatti star guest at Courmayeur.
Rock Junior 2010 - registration now online
30/03/2010 - Climbing
Rock Junior 2010 - registration now online
Registration is now open for the Rock Junior, which will be held Saturday 05 and Sunday 06 June 2010 in arco, Lake Garda, Italy.
Piolet d'Or 2010: the candidates and the evenings in Courmayeur and Chamonix
30/03/2010 - Events
Piolet d'Or 2010: the candidates and the evenings in Courmayeur and Chamonix
The Piolet d'Or 2010 will take place from 8 - 10 April in the towns of Courmayeur and Chamonix with a series of conferences, debates, films, meetings and other cultural activities. The event begins on Thursday 8 April in Courmayeur with an evening dedicated to young climbing partnerships...
Matterhorn South Face, new route by Marco and Hervé Barmasse
30/03/2010 - Alpinism
Matterhorn South Face, new route by Marco and Hervé Barmasse
On 13 March 2010 Marco and Hervé Barmasse established a new route up the South Face of the Matterhorn. Their 1220m line solves one of the "problems" up the massive "Becca" face, attempted by numerous climbers in the past. The exclusive interview with Hervé Barmasse.
Klemen Becan and Maja Vidmar win the first Winter Military World Games
25/03/2010 - Competitions
Klemen Becan and Maja Vidmar win the first Winter Military World Games
The Sport Climbing competition at the first Winter Military World Games was an unforgettable event and was won by the Slovenians Klemen Becan and Maja Vidmar.
Sport climbing is now fully recognised by the IOC. Interview with IFSC President Marco Scolaris.
23/02/2010 - Competitions
Sport climbing is now fully recognised by the IOC. Interview with IFSC President Marco Scolaris.
The International Olympic Committee (IOC) has ratified and recognised the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) during its Plenary Session at Vancouver, Canada. As the President of the IFSC Marco Scolaris explains, this is a fundamental step for sport climbing in its bid to become an Olympic sport.
Samuele Scalet, good-bye to the alpinist who loved the Pale di San Martino, Dolomites
19/01/2010 - Alpinism
Samuele Scalet, good-bye to the alpinist who loved the Pale di San Martino, Dolomites
Samuele Scalet has left us at 70 years of age. Throughout his lifetime the Italian alpinist forged unforgettable routes on the Pale di San Martino (Dolomites).
Cascata di Rochemolles, Val di Susa, Italy
08/01/2010 - Alpinism
Cascata di Rochemolles, Val di Susa, Italy
A splendid icefall first ascended by M. Bernardi, G.C. Grassia and F. Salino almost 30 years ago at Vallone di Rochemolles (Val di Susa, Piemonte, Italy).
Roby project 8c/9a?
05/01/2010 - Climbing
Roby project 8c/9a?
It all took place at Terlago in Valle del Sarca, a stone's throw from arco, Italy. But the story Manolo tells about this project which no longer exists could perhaps have taken place at any old crag...
7 die in avalanche in Dolomites
28/12/2009 - Alpinism
7 die in avalanche in Dolomites
Two hikers died on 26/12/2009 in Val Lasties (Dolomites), as did four members of the Val di Fassa Mountain Rescue Squad. At Solda a 12 year old boy went missing while skiing off-piste.
Masada, Sass Maor, Dolomites: first free ascent by Riccardo Scarian
03/11/2009 - Climbing
Masada, Sass Maor, Dolomites: first free ascent by Riccardo Scarian
Interview with Riccardo Scarian who on 27/10/2009 climbed the second half of Masada on Sass Maor (Pale di San Martino, Dolomites), and freed the crux pitch at 8b.
Charlotte Durif 8c+ climbing fest in France
30/10/2009 - Climbing
Charlotte Durif 8c+ climbing fest in France
In October Charlotte Durif from France carried out the first ascents of two 8c+, Pull Over at the Grotte de Galetas in Verdon and The Wall at Combe La Vielle.
Jenny Lavarda & Marco Ronchi and their ascents of Solo per vecchi guerrieri
16/10/2009 - Climbing
Jenny Lavarda & Marco Ronchi and their ascents of Solo per vecchi guerrieri
Interview with Jenny Lavarda after the first free ascent of "Solo per vecchi guerrieri" (150m, 8c+/9a, Vette Feltrine, Dolomites), first ascended by Manolo and repeated by Mario Prinoth and Riccardo Scarian. She was accompanied by Marco Ronchi who also managed to redpoint the route that day.
Roby Piantoni
16/10/2009 - Alpinism
Roby Piantoni
Manuel Lugli remembers Roby Piantoni, the Italian alpinist from Bergamo who lost his life yesterday on Shisha Pangma, Tibet.
Rock Climbing Marathon – San Vito lo Capo, Sicily
14/10/2009 - Climbing
Rock Climbing Marathon – San Vito lo Capo, Sicily
The first international climbing meeting at San Vito lo Capo in Sicily took place from 9 - 11 October

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