The news
29/08/2023 - Climbing
Laura Rogora onsights 8c at Cicera in Spain Italian climber Laura Rogora has onsighted her first 8c, 'Ajo crude' at Cicera in Spain. She is only the third woman to succeed in this feat, after Janja Garnbret (2021) and Chaehyun Seo (2022).
28/08/2023 - Alpinism
Dolomites Cima Grande di Lavaredo x 600 for Heini Gütl The other day the 69-year-old mountain guide from Sexten, South Tyrol, Italy Heini Gütl reached the summit of Cima Grande di Lavaredo in the Tre Cime di Lavaredo group of the Dolomites for the 600th time
27/08/2023 - Climbing
Ainhize Belar Barrutia repeats world's first 8c, Wolfgang Güllich's Wallstreet in Frankenjura Spanish climber Ainhize Belar Barrutia has repeated Wallstreet, the world's first 8c established in 1987 by Wolfgang Güllich and located on Krottenseer Turm in the Frankenjura, Germany.
25/08/2023 - Climbing
Pete Whittaker frees Eigerdosis, 8c trad crack at Jøssingfjord in Norway British rock climber Pete Whittaker has made the first free ascent of the second pitch of 'Eigerdosis' on the Profilveggen / Profile wall at Jøssingfjord in Norway. The previous aid climb is now a trad crack that checks in at 8c.
24/08/2023 - Climbing
Jakob Schubert vs Es Pontas, the most difficult deep water solo on Mallorca The video of Austrian climber Jakob Schubert repeating 'Es Pontas', the hardest deep water solo climb water on the island of Mallorca put up by Chris Sharma in 2006.
24/08/2023 - Alpinism
The day comes to Coston d'Averau (Dolomites) thanks to Michal Coubal, Anna Coubalová, Martin Tučka The report and route topo of 'Utúlie‘n Aurë' (8-/RS3/I), the new multi-pitch first ascended in mid-July on the West Face of Coston d'Averau (Nuvolau, Dolomites) by Czech mountaineers Michal Coubal, Martin Tučka and Anna Coubalová.
23/08/2023 - Alpinism
Benjamin Védrines completes fast Aiguille Dibona solo The video of French mountaineer Benjamin Védrines who, starting from the car park, climbed Aiguille Dibona (3130m) via the Madier route in 1 hour and 24 minutes.
22/08/2023 - Interviews
Paul Pritchard makes first ascent of 'Jean', first trad lead in 25 years Interview with British rock climber Paul Pritchard who has made the first ascent of the trad climb 'Jean' in Tasmania. This is Pritchard's first trad lead in 25 years, after his near-fatal fall on the Totem Pole in 1998, and his first new route since 1997.
21/08/2023 - Alpinism
Nadine Wallner climbs Vertical Jungfrau Marathon in under 17 hours with Simon Wahli On 23 July 2023 Nadine Wallner completed the Vertical Jungfrau Marathon in 16 hours and 20 minutes. The Austrian mountain guide teamed up with her Swiss colleague Simon Wahli for the 3600+ ascent that leads from the Lauterbrunnental to the 4158m summit in the Bernese Oberland, Switzerland.
20/08/2023 - Alpinism
Watch Silvan Schüpbach complete his Wenden Climbing Marathon The video of Swiss alpinist Silvan Schüpbach who on 31/07/2022 with Carlos Molina from Argentina climbed 7 routes in 24 hours on the Wendenstöcke in Switzerland.
19/08/2023 - Alpinism
Ciao Ermanno Salvaterra, the great dreamer Remembering Ermanno Salvaterra, the great Italian mountaineer of the Brenta Dolomites and Patagonia, who perished yesterday while climbing on Campanile Alto di Brenta.
18/08/2023 - Climbing
Caroline Ciavaldini repeats Olwen (E9), James Pearson repeats Prisoners of the sun (E10) at Rhoscolyn, Wales At Rhoscolyn on the island of Anglesey in North Wales Caroline Ciavaldini has repeated the E9 trad climb 'Olwen' while her husband James Pearson has repeated the E10 'Prisoners of the sun'.
17/08/2023 - Climbing
Connor Herson's staggering Squamish sending spree American climber Connor Herson has made the second ascent of Crack of Destiny (5.14b/8c) and a fast repeat of Cobra Crack (5.14b/8c) at Squamish, Canada. Other repeats include Spirit Quest (5.14d/9a), Tainted Love (5.13d R/8b) and the multipitch Télmexw (5.13c/8a+).
15/08/2023 - Alpinism
Elios & Super Elios added to Tour de Jorasses by Giuseppe Vidoni, Richard Tiraboschi, Tommaso Vection Italian mountaineers Giuseppe Vidoni, Richard Tiraboschi and Tommaso Vection have made the first ascent of Super Elios on Tour de Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif. Vidoni reports.
14/08/2023 - Alpinism
Swift Tre Cime di Lavaredo double for Jernej Kruder: Pan Aroma and Spanish route The report by Slovenian climber Jernej Kruder who earlier this summer made quick repeats of two hard climbs at the Tre Cime di Lavaredo in the Dolomites: Panaroma (8b+, 500m) on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo and the Spanish route on Cima Grande di Lavaredo (8b+, 550m).
13/08/2023 - Competitions
Jakob Schubert unschlagbar! Boulder & Lead World Champion & qualified for Paris 2024 with Colin Duffy, Tomoa Narasaki Austria’s Jakob Schubert won the men's Combined Boulder & Lead in Bern last night , while America's Colin Duffy took silver and Japan's Tomoa Narasaki bronze. All three have qualified for the Paris 2024 Olympic Games
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