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Red Bull X-Alps, the going gets tough even for Christian Maurer
10/07/2017 - Competitions
Red Bull X-Alps, the going gets tough even for Christian Maurer
The ninth day of the Red Bull X-Alps 2017 proved to be more difficult than expected with many athletes making little headway, including competition leader Christian Maurer who is currently 150 km from the finish line.
Mount Huntington: Clint Helander and Jess Roskelley climb complete South Ridge in Alaska
05/07/2017 - Alpinism
Mount Huntington: Clint Helander and Jess Roskelley climb complete South Ridge in Alaska
Interview with American alpinists Jess Roskelley who made the first ascent of the South Ridge on Mount Huntington (3731m) in Alaska with Clint Helander. Called the Gauntlet Ridge (Alaska Grade 6, M6, A0, 95° snow, 2,500m), the committing new route was climbed alpine style over an 8-day period in mid-April.
A tribute to our friend, Ueli Steck. By Steve House
08/05/2017 - Alpinism
A tribute to our friend, Ueli Steck. By Steve House
In memory of Swiss alpinist Ueli Steck who died while climbing on Nuptse in Nepal on April 30, 2017, written by his friend and ace American alpinist Steve House.
Cerro Mariposa and the Patagonian adventure of Luca Schiera and Paolo Marazzi
17/04/2017 - Alpinism
Cerro Mariposa and the Patagonian adventure of Luca Schiera and Paolo Marazzi
On 15 and 16 March 2017 Luca Schiera and Paolo Marazzi made the first ascent of Produci consuma crepa, a new 900m rock climb with difficulties up to 6c A2, on the NE Face of Cerro Mariposa, Rio Turbio valley, Patagonia. Luca Schiera reports
Two new sport climbing crags in Sardinia
26/03/2017 - Climbing
Two new sport climbing crags in Sardinia
Two beautiful new sport crags have been developed at Samugheo in the center of Sardinia: Tana delle Volpi and Apotheosis, according to Maurizio Oviglia one of the most beautiful on the Italian island.
Chulilla in Spain, thoughts about this world-class climbing destination. By Maurizio Oviglia
25/01/2017 - Climbing
Chulilla in Spain, thoughts about this world-class climbing destination. By Maurizio Oviglia
Politically incorrect thoughts after a climbing trip to Chulilla, Spain, one of the best rock climbing destinations in the world and currently extremely popular among the climbing community. By Maurizio Oviglia.
Spiro Dalla Porta Xydias, goodbye to the alpinist who climbed with his soul
21/01/2017 - Alpinism
Spiro Dalla Porta Xydias, goodbye to the alpinist who climbed with his soul
On Wednesday evening Spiro Dalla Porta Xydias passed away in Trieste. The acclaimed Italian alpinist, writer and theater director was an academic of the Italian Alpine Club and, for three decades, president of GISM, the Italian Group of Mountain Writers. With him Italian mountaineering, and not only, looses a great...
Erich Abram, farewell to the last Italian K2 mountaineer
18/01/2017 - Alpinism
Erich Abram, farewell to the last Italian K2 mountaineer
South Tyrolean mountaineer Erich Abram passed away on Monday 16 January 2017 at Bozen aged 95. The talented mountaineer and climber played an important role in the 1954 Italian expedition that made the first ascent of K2.
Thomas Huber: a ground fall, Latok I and the gratitude for being alive
29/11/2016 - Alpinism
Thomas Huber: a ground fall, Latok I and the gratitude for being alive
German alpinist Thomas Huber recounts the last three months that, in his words, 'have left a profound mark on my life.' Starting with a 16m ground fall, followed by the dream of climbing Latok I in the Karakorum and the nightmare rescue operation for American mountaineers Scott Adamson and Kyle...
Ray Jardine's Friends, a teacup and a blue bag
07/11/2016 - Climbing
Ray Jardine's Friends, a teacup and a blue bag
Maurizio Oviglia recalls the invention of the Friend, the revolutionary camming device invented in the 1970s by the America’s Ray Jardine. A fun story that retraces an important moment in the history of rock climbing.
Corsica, Bavella: Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia forge Ro.Ma. up Punta U Corbu
31/10/2016 - Alpinism
Corsica, Bavella: Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia forge Ro.Ma. up Punta U Corbu
On the 'most beautiful and famous big wall in Corsica', i.e. Punta U Corbu at Col de Bavella, Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia have completed their 'Ro-Ma Project’ to create the new multi-pitch rock climb Ro.Ma. (180m, 7c max, 7a+ obl). Oviglia provides the details.
Tavolara, climbing on the Sardinian island shrouded in myth
18/10/2016 - Climbing
Tavolara, climbing on the Sardinian island shrouded in myth
Maurizio Oviglia explores the fascinating climbing history of Tavolara Island, off the NE coast of Sardinia, and repeats 'Affora sa nato’ (6b, 215m) first ascended by Enzo Lecis and Simone Sarti in the ’90’s.
Lisa Borzani first across the finishing line at the Tor des Géants 2016
15/09/2016 - Competitions
Lisa Borzani first across the finishing line at the Tor des Géants 2016
This morning at 05:10 the Italian trail runner Lisa Borzani crossed the finishing line of Tor des Géants 2016, winning the women's event after 91 hours and 9 minutes and placing seventh overall.
Black and white, Ivan Ghirardini and the three North Faces solo in winter
20/07/2016 - Alpinism
Black and white, Ivan Ghirardini and the three North Faces solo in winter
Thoughts about the history of mountaineering. The solo winter trilogy carried out by Ivan Ghirardini up the legendary three North Faces of the Alps: the Matterhorn, Grandes Jorasses and Eiger. By Ivo Ferrari.
Stefano Ghisolfi, a year after climbing Biographie
27/06/2016 - Climbing
Stefano Ghisolfi, a year after climbing Biographie
Stefano Ghisolfi talks about his return to Céüse in France a year after having repeated Biographie. It's a chance to remember those moments with a video that documents his ascent of this legendary sports climb freed by Chris Sharma in 2001.
Touching the void - immortal stories
09/06/2016 - Alpinism
Touching the void - immortal stories
PlayAlpinismo films: Touching the void by Kevin Macdonald recounts the dramatic and immortal story of Joe Simpson and Simon Yates and their first ascent of the West Face of Siula Grande (Andes, Peru). A film and a story about the greatness of friendship and life. The review by Vinicio Stefanello.