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Goodbye to Franček Knez, Slovenia's silent climber
09/10/2017 - Alpinism
Goodbye to Franček Knez, Slovenia's silent climber
62-year-old Slovenian mountaineer Franček Knez died on 6 October 2017. Reserved and modest, Knez was considered by many as one of the strongest alpinists of his generation. Published below is a profile written by Slovenian journalist Urban Golob in 2010 when, together with Silvo Karo, Knez was conferred the Order...
Bouldering at Cortina in the Dolomites
30/09/2017 - Climbing
Bouldering at Cortina in the Dolomites
Cortina d’Ampezzo climber Luca Zardini introduces the bouldering in the Campo and Volpera forest above Cortina, Dolomites.
Free to climb - the discovery of rock climbing at Arco, part 2
15/08/2017 - Climbing
Free to climb - the discovery of rock climbing at Arco, part 2
The second and final episode about the history of sport climbing at Arco, taken from the book 'Rock Master, Climbing at Arco'.
Free to climb - the discovery of rock climbing at Arco
14/08/2017 - Climbing
Free to climb - the discovery of rock climbing at Arco
The first episode about the history of sport climbing at Arco, taken from the book 'Rock Master, Climbing at Arco'.
The children of Fessura Kosterlitz: the legendary crack climb in Valle dell'Orco
09/08/2017 - Climbing
The children of Fessura Kosterlitz: the legendary crack climb in Valle dell'Orco
A legend, a desire destined to remain a dream for most climbers: this is what the Kosterlitz crack in Valle dell'Orco represented to the Italian climbing scene in the ’70’s and ’80’s after having been first ascended in the early 1970’s by Scotland’s Mike Kosterlitz. The 2016 Nobel Prize in...
Denali, Alaska: Slovak Direct repeated by David Bacci and Luca Moroni
11/07/2017 - Alpinism
Denali, Alaska: Slovak Direct repeated by David Bacci and Luca Moroni
On their first climbing trip to Alaska, alpinists David Bacci and Luca Moroni pulled off the first Italian repeat of the Slovak Direct route up Denali (6194m) in Alaska.
Red Bull X-Alps, the going gets tough even for Christian Maurer
10/07/2017 - Competitions
Red Bull X-Alps, the going gets tough even for Christian Maurer
The ninth day of the Red Bull X-Alps 2017 proved to be more difficult than expected with many athletes making little headway, including competition leader Christian Maurer who is currently 150 km from the finish line.
Mount Huntington: Clint Helander and Jess Roskelley climb complete South Ridge in Alaska
05/07/2017 - Alpinism
Mount Huntington: Clint Helander and Jess Roskelley climb complete South Ridge in Alaska
Interview with American alpinists Jess Roskelley who made the first ascent of the South Ridge on Mount Huntington (3731m) in Alaska with Clint Helander. Called the Gauntlet Ridge (Alaska Grade 6, M6, A0, 95° snow, 2,500m), the committing new route was climbed alpine style over an 8-day period in mid-April.
A tribute to our friend, Ueli Steck. By Steve House
08/05/2017 - Alpinism
A tribute to our friend, Ueli Steck. By Steve House
In memory of Swiss alpinist Ueli Steck who died while climbing on Nuptse in Nepal on April 30, 2017, written by his friend and ace American alpinist Steve House.
Cerro Mariposa and the Patagonian adventure of Luca Schiera and Paolo Marazzi
17/04/2017 - Alpinism
Cerro Mariposa and the Patagonian adventure of Luca Schiera and Paolo Marazzi
On 15 and 16 March 2017 Luca Schiera and Paolo Marazzi made the first ascent of Produci consuma crepa, a new 900m rock climb with difficulties up to 6c A2, on the NE Face of Cerro Mariposa, Rio Turbio valley, Patagonia. Luca Schiera reports
Two new sport climbing crags in Sardinia
26/03/2017 - Climbing
Two new sport climbing crags in Sardinia
Two beautiful new sport crags have been developed at Samugheo in the center of Sardinia: Tana delle Volpi and Apotheosis, according to Maurizio Oviglia one of the most beautiful on the Italian island.
Chulilla in Spain, thoughts about this world-class climbing destination. By Maurizio Oviglia
25/01/2017 - Climbing
Chulilla in Spain, thoughts about this world-class climbing destination. By Maurizio Oviglia
Politically incorrect thoughts after a climbing trip to Chulilla, Spain, one of the best rock climbing destinations in the world and currently extremely popular among the climbing community. By Maurizio Oviglia.
Spiro Dalla Porta Xydias, goodbye to the alpinist who climbed with his soul
21/01/2017 - Alpinism
Spiro Dalla Porta Xydias, goodbye to the alpinist who climbed with his soul
On Wednesday evening Spiro Dalla Porta Xydias passed away in Trieste. The acclaimed Italian alpinist, writer and theater director was an academic of the Italian Alpine Club and, for three decades, president of GISM, the Italian Group of Mountain Writers. With him Italian mountaineering, and not only, looses a great...
Erich Abram, farewell to the last Italian K2 mountaineer
18/01/2017 - Alpinism
Erich Abram, farewell to the last Italian K2 mountaineer
South Tyrolean mountaineer Erich Abram passed away on Monday 16 January 2017 at Bozen aged 95. The talented mountaineer and climber played an important role in the 1954 Italian expedition that made the first ascent of K2.
Thomas Huber: a ground fall, Latok I and the gratitude for being alive
29/11/2016 - Alpinism
Thomas Huber: a ground fall, Latok I and the gratitude for being alive
German alpinist Thomas Huber recounts the last three months that, in his words, 'have left a profound mark on my life.' Starting with a 16m ground fall, followed by the dream of climbing Latok I in the Karakorum and the nightmare rescue operation for American mountaineers Scott Adamson and Kyle...
Ray Jardine's Friends, a teacup and a blue bag
07/11/2016 - Climbing
Ray Jardine's Friends, a teacup and a blue bag
Maurizio Oviglia recalls the invention of the Friend, the revolutionary camming device invented in the 1970s by the America’s Ray Jardine. A fun story that retraces an important moment in the history of rock climbing.

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