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Heinz Mariacher receives Paul Preuss Award 2020
24/08/2020 - Alpinism
Heinz Mariacher receives Paul Preuss Award 2020
Austrian alpinist Heinz Mariacher is the recipient of the Paul Preuss Award 2020. Mariacher is the eighth mountaineer to receive the prestigious prize after Reinhold Messner, Hanspeter Eisendle, Albert Precht, Hansjörg Auer, Alexander Huber, Beat Kammerlander and Bernd Arnold.
Nicolas Favresse, Sébastien Berthe fancy Des Kaisers neue Kleider in Wilder Kaiser
20/08/2020 - Climbing
Nicolas Favresse, Sébastien Berthe fancy Des Kaisers neue Kleider in Wilder Kaiser
Seb Berthe and Nico Favresse have made a single-day, ground-up repeat of Des Kaisers neue Kleider (240m, 8b+), first ascended by Stefan Glowacz in the Wilder Kaiser massif in Austria in 1994.
Leo Gheza makes solo ascent of Central Pillar of Frêney
16/08/2020 - Alpinism
Leo Gheza makes solo ascent of Central Pillar of Frêney
Italian mountaineer Leonardo Gheza reports about his solo ascent of the Central Pillar of Frêney in the Mont Blanc massif on 6/08/2020. This might well be the first solo ascent in just a single day. In any case it was an amazing experience on one of the most famous faces...
Climbing banned at Taipan Wall in Australia
15/08/2020 - Climbing
Climbing banned at Taipan Wall in Australia
Rock climbing has been temporarily banned at one of Australia’s premier crags, Taipan Wall in the Grampians.
Piolets d’Or 2020: Chamlang, Tengi Ragi Tau, Link Sar and Rakaposhi the winning climbs
12/08/2020 - Alpinism
Piolets d’Or 2020: Chamlang, Tengi Ragi Tau, Link Sar and Rakaposhi the winning climbs
Four remarkable ascents will be awarded the Piolets d'Or 2020 at the Ladek Mountain Festival in Poland from 11 - 22 September: Chamlang by Marek Holeček and Zdeněk Hák, Tengi Ragi Tau by Alan Rousseau and Tino Villanueva, Link Sar by Mark Richey, Steve Swenson, Chris Wright and Graham Zimmerman...
Matteo Pasquetto perishes on Grandes Jorasses
08/08/2020 - Alpinism
Matteo Pasquetto perishes on Grandes Jorasses
Yesterday afternoon Matteo Pasquetto, the talented Italian alpinist and aspirant mountain guide, lost his life while descending from the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif.
Filip Babicz speed solo ascent of Mont Blanc Integralissima de Peuterey
07/08/2020 - Alpinism
Filip Babicz speed solo ascent of Mont Blanc Integralissima de Peuterey
Polish mountaineer Filip Babicz has made a solo ascent of the Integralissima de Peuterey in the Mont Blanc massif in an astounding 17 hours. This is the first repeat of the 'Longest ridge in the Alps’, first climbed in full by the Germans Gottlieb Braun-Elwert and Rudi Kirmeier in 1973.
Alexander Megos frees Bibliographie at Céüse, the world’s second 9c
06/08/2020 - Climbing
Alexander Megos frees Bibliographie at Céüse, the world’s second 9c
At Céüse in France the German climber Alex Megos has made the first ascent of Bibliographie and suggested the grade 9c. This is now the most difficult sport climb in France and only the second in the world this difficult.
Grandes Jorasses North Face: Federica Mingolla, Leo Gheza repeat Manitua
05/08/2020 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses North Face: Federica Mingolla, Leo Gheza repeat Manitua
Italian alpinist Federica Mingolla reports about her repeat with Leonardo Gheza of Manitua, the difficult route first ascended solo by Slavko Svetičič in 1991 on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif.
Simon Messner, Martin Sieberer discover L Pilaster Desmincià on Sass Rigais in Dolomites
04/08/2020 - Alpinism
Simon Messner, Martin Sieberer discover L Pilaster Desmincià on Sass Rigais in Dolomites
Following a line traced 50 years ago by Reinhold Messner, on 29/07/2020 Simon Messner and Martin Sieberer made the first ascent of L Pilaster Desmincià, a new multi-pitch rock climb up the NW face of Sass Rigais in the Geislerspitzen group of the Italian Dolomites.
Ben Moon, Jerry Moffatt, Johnny Dawes featuring in 80s Birth of Extreme
03/08/2020 - Climbing
Ben Moon, Jerry Moffatt, Johnny Dawes featuring in 80s Birth of Extreme
The film 80's Birth of Extreme by Alun Hughes, featuring some of the most important moments in British sport climbing during the 1980s. Featuring Ben Moon, Jerry Moffatt and Johnny Dawes.
Ben Moon / The British rock climbing legend interview
31/07/2020 - Interviews
Ben Moon / The British rock climbing legend interview
Interview with British rock climber Ben Moon, one of the world’s greatest rock climbers throughout the 1980’s and early 1990’s with landmark first ascents such one of Britain’s first 8a, Statement of Youth at Lower Pen Trwyn in Wales and Hubble at Raven Tor, hailed as the world’s first 8c+...
Alexey Rubtsov: bouldering at world-class Djan Tugan in Russia
31/07/2020 - Climbing
Alexey Rubtsov: bouldering at world-class Djan Tugan in Russia
Alexey Rubtsov reports about the huge bouldering potential at Djan Tugan in the Caucasus in Russia where he has established 30 boulder problems up to 8B+. The Russian bouldering champ has described the area as 'new world-class bouldering area’.
Help save Magic Wood's climber-run camping and hotel
28/07/2020 - Climbing
Help save Magic Wood's climber-run camping and hotel
A petition has been launched to support the Saluz family who run the hotel, campsite and restaurant in Magic Wood in Switzerland and are recognised as being the true custodians for one of the greatest bouldering destinations in the world.
Adam Ondra onsights Il Maratoneta, Manolo’s historic 8b+ at Paklenica in Croatia
24/07/2020 - Interviews
Adam Ondra onsights Il Maratoneta, Manolo’s historic 8b+ at Paklenica in Croatia
Interview with Czech rock climber Adam Ondra who has made the first onsight of Il Maratoneta, the first 8b+ in Croatia freed by Maurizio 'Manolo' Zanolla in 1987 and at the time one of the hardest climbs in the world. Furthermore, he has made the first ascent of Genius Loci...
Karwendel climbing: on Repswand Manhartsberger and Gössinger establish Prime Time
22/07/2020 - Alpinism
Karwendel climbing: on Repswand Manhartsberger and Gössinger establish Prime Time
On Repswand in the Karwendel massif, Austria, Peter Manhartsberger and Klaus Gössinger have made the first ascent of the new multi-pitch alpine sports climb Prime Time.