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Bellavista in the Dolomites for Luka Krajnc
13/09/2011 - Alpinism
Bellavista in the Dolomites for Luka Krajnc
Slovenian climber Luka Krajnc has carried out the fourth complete free ascent of Bellavista on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Dolomites, first ascended by Alexander Huber solo during winter 1999 with difficulties up to A4 and then freed by German at 8c in July 2001. Urban Golob provides the report.
Mario Prinoth: Silbergeier and the Battisti - Weiss
01/09/2011 - Alpinism
Mario Prinoth: Silbergeier and the Battisti - Weiss
On 2 August 2011 Italian climber Mario Prinoth carried out a rare repeat of Silbergeier (8b/8b+, 240m) in the Rätikon, Switzerland, while on 25 May he had managed to on-sight the via Battisti - Weiss (400m, max 8a+) on Spiz delle Roe de Ciampiè (Larsec, Catinaccio, Dolomites).
In memory of Giovanni Quirici
26/08/2011 - Climbing
In memory of Giovanni Quirici
Swiss alpinist Giovanni Quirici fell to his death on 12 August while ascending the North Face of the Eiger.... a friend remembers him.
The Shining, new multi-pitch by Trotter and Caldwell
15/08/2011 - Climbing
The Shining, new multi-pitch by Trotter and Caldwell
Sonnie Trotter and Tommy Caldwell have recently sent The Shining 5.13c/d at Mount Louie in Canada.
Ulina smer, major new route on Triglav
10/08/2011 - Alpinism
Ulina smer, major new route on Triglav
Tomaz Jakofcic and Tina Di Batista have established Ulina smer (IX, 1000m), a major new route up the North Face of Triglav, Slovenia.
Hervé Barmasse, Iker and Eneko Pou and the new Brouillard route up Mont Blanc
06/08/2011 - Alpinism
Hervé Barmasse, Iker and Eneko Pou and the new Brouillard route up Mont Blanc
Interview with Hervé Barmasse, Iker and Eneko Pou after La Classica Moderna' the new route the trio esablished up the Left Pillar of Brouillard on Mont Blanc.
Steph Davis, BASE Jump off Tofana di Rozes
04/08/2011 - Events
Steph Davis, BASE Jump off Tofana di Rozes
Video of the Americans Steph Davis and Mario Richard and their BASE Jump off the Tofana di Rozes (Dolomites)
Matic Obid, a summer climbing in Slovenia and Croatia
03/08/2011 - Climbing
Matic Obid, a summer climbing in Slovenia and Croatia
Slovenian climber Matic Obid has repeated a series of routes, from the Site rock face in the Julian Alps to Paklenica in Croatia, via Mont Blanc and also his first 8c at Sezana in Slovenia.
Valery Rozov, BASE jump off Grand Pilier d‘Angle, Mont Blanc
06/07/2011 - Alpinism
Valery Rozov, BASE jump off Grand Pilier d‘Angle, Mont Blanc
This morning at 06:45 Russian alpinist and base jumper Valery Rozov carried out the first BASE jump off the Italian side of Mont Blanc
Nina Caprez makes first female ascent of Silbergeier, Rätikon
04/07/2011 - Climbing
Nina Caprez makes first female ascent of Silbergeier, Rätikon
Interview with Nina Caprez after the Swiss climber carried out the first female ascent of Silbergeier, shortly after her partner Cedric Lachat repeated the 240m 8b/8b+ in the Rätikon, Switzerland.
No way down. The book by Graham Bowley about the 2008 tragedy on K2
01/07/2011 - Book-press
No way down. The book by Graham Bowley about the 2008 tragedy on K2
No Way Down: Life and Death on K2 by Graham Bowley has now been published in Italy by Mondadori. The book retraces the 2008 tragedy on K2 which cost the lives of 11 alpinists and only Italian mountaineer Marco Confortola survived.
La Banda del Buco, new route on Monte Pellegrino, Sicily
28/06/2011 - Climbing
La Banda del Buco, new route on Monte Pellegrino, Sicily
On 5-6 April 2011 the Italians Rolando Larcher, Luca Giupponi and Nicola Sartori established La banda del buco (175m, 7a+/7b max, 6c+ obbl.) a new route up the North Face of Antro della Perciata on Monte Pellegrino (Palermo, Sicily).
The Phoenix solo – Alex Honnold interview and rare Ray Jardine insight
17/06/2011 - Interviews
The Phoenix solo – Alex Honnold interview and rare Ray Jardine insight
Interview with the American climbers Alex Honnold and Ray Jardine after Honnold's solo of The Phoenix (5.13a) in Yosemite Valley.
Zauberberg on Ciastel de Chedul: Riegler brothers first free ascent
16/06/2011 - Alpinism
Zauberberg on Ciastel de Chedul: Riegler brothers first free ascent
On 2 June 2011 Florian and Martin Riegler freed "Zauberberg" (the Magic Mountain) 8a max on Ciastel de Chedul, Vallunga (Val Gardena - Dolomites).
Denali, South Face first ski descent and fast Cassin Ridge ascent
08/06/2011 - Alpinism
Denali, South Face first ski descent and fast Cassin Ridge ascent
Swedish skier Andreas Fransson has carried out the first ski descent of the South Face of Denali (6197m), while British alpinists Jonathan Griffith and Will Sim have sped up the Cassin ridge in 14 hours 40 minutes.
Hallucinogen Wall, first free ascent by Hansjörg Auer
27/05/2011 - Climbing
Hallucinogen Wall, first free ascent by Hansjörg Auer
Interview with Austrian climber Hansjörg Auer after the 22 April first free ascent of Hallucinogen Wall 5.13+/R in the Black Canyon, Colorado, USA.

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