New route on Pizzo Castelluzzo, San Vito Lo Capo, Sicily

Five new pitches up Pizzo Castelluzzo. Or rather, 1800km from Lecco all the way south to the happy and free climbing paradise San Vito Lo Capo to climb 140m of Sicilian rock. Those interested in finding out more (such as the grade of the route) will need to look elsewhere... we didn't ask Ivo Ferrari for these details after he established the route together with Massimo Flaccavento, Ilaria Raboni and Simone Bergamaschi. Those who want to repeat the route will have to make do with Ferrari's introduction... which, in truth, seems more than enough to fuel dreams of a great vertical holdiay in Sicily.


1800 KM FOR 140 METERS OF NOVELTY by Ivo Ferrari

Massimo met us at the airport in Trapani after having travelled halfway across Sicily accompanied by his smile. Two hours earlier I was in Bergamo, three hours earlier I was in Lecco.... We climbed into his noisy car and set off for San Vito Lo Capo. Just two words were needed to infect Simone, Ilaria and Max: "new route."

The dark night accompanied us with "our" desire at Livia's house, but the next day dawned quickly and there we were, suddenly in the midst of the hot and welcoming Sicily, faced by "our" infection! Pizzo Castelluzzo with its inviting imaginary line, friends, pegs, slings, all was ready... who wants to set off first? And who wants to rope up with me?

A balance game, concentration when needed, delicate moves, we climbed following each other, Ilaria and myself, Massimo and Simone, all with the same passion called "something new"! Novelty is out there, you need to create it carefully, be light where it's delicate and decisive where the rock is solid. we climbed and all the colours surrounding us became infinite, a pleasant wind accompanied us and every now and then a peg sung in the rock.

Simone and Ilaria seemed like two children and this was great, this was their first new route. Massimo was one big smile, proud of his land, a talented climber and Friend. The summit was... flowers of a thousand colours, a warm Wind, the sound of the Sea... we hugged each other, happy. 1800km for 140m of something new, had it been worth it? Yes, it's always worth it when you're lucky enough to see your climbing partners happy... And the rest? The local dishes arancini and cannoli, beer, the rest... Pizzo Castelluzzo, the route " La farfalla di Ilaria", Hilary's butterfly, five pitches of friendship.

Ivo Ferrari