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Interview with the Russian expedition leader who received the Piolet d'Or 2004 for the first direct ascent of the North face of Jannu.

The prestigious Piolet d'Or 2004 promoted by Montagne Magazine was won by the Russian team for its ascent of Jannu. Steve House won the spectators award for his solitary ascent of K7.

The jury, headed by Krzysztof Wielicki, and the six candidates for the Piolet d'Or 2004 promoted by Montagnes Magazine

The six Piolet d'Or 2004 nominees for the most important alpine achievements of the year

On 29/11, Simone Moro, Jan Szulc, Dariusz Zaluski Jacek Jawien and Piotr Morawski head for Tibetto attempt the first winter ascent of Shisha Pangma (8027m).

On 13/11/2004 at 21.00 Ermanno Salvaterra, Alessandro Beltrami and Giacomo Rossetti reached the top of Cerro Torre via a new direct route up the East Face of Cerro Torre, Patagonia.

On 16 August 2004 at 24.00, Jordi Cormoinas, the leader of the Catalan "Tarragona Magic Line Expedition 2004", made the first repeat of K2's Magic Line. Manuel de la Matta died during the descent.

From 12 -14/08/2004 Silvestro Stucchi, Elena Davila, Anna Lazzarini and Enea Colnago made the first ascent of "Hasta la vista David" (VI+, A1), a new 750m route up the SW Face of Brakk Zang (Baltistan-Pakistan).

On 27 July 2004 at 7.15 local time Mario Dibona, Renato Sottsass, Marco Da Pozzo and Renzo Benedetti reached the summit of K2, 8611m. They reached the top of the second highest mountain in the world together with Mingma Sherpa and Thilen Sherpa.

At 13,30 CET Silvio Mondinelli and Karl Unterchirker reached the summit of K2, followed by Walter Nones, Michele Compagnoni and Ugo Giacomelli at 14.15 (17.15 local time). At roughly 17.50 (local time) four members of the Spanish "Al filo de lo imposible” expedition, Edurne Pasaban, Juanito Oiarzabal, Juan Vallejo...

On 11 June 2004, Mauro Florit, Massimo Sacchi and Marco Sterni reached the previously unclimbed summit of Amahuagaychu 5134m, in the Cordillera Blanca, Peru, via their new route (500m, VII, A2).

On 7 February 2004 the Italians Elio Orlandi and Luca Fava, and the Argentine Horacio Codò reached the summit of Chalten - Fitz Roy (Patagonia) via the new "Linea di Eleganza" , graded ED+ 6c/A3 90°/M7,

At 09.15am on 30/05/2004 three Russian climbers, Pasha Shabalin, Ilyas Tuhvatullin and Andrey Mariev reached the summit of Mt. Everest via a demanding new line up the Central Pillar of Everest's North Face.

Last week 5 mountaineers died on Everest, while Sherpa Pemba Dorji climbed from Base Camp to the aummit in just 8 hours 10 minutes

Expeditions: summit time is fast approaching. In the Everest region the second half of May is statistically the most important time of year for successful summit bids.

On Saturday 8 and Sunday 9 May, over 300 boulderers met up in the Italian Val di Mello and took part in the two-day international Bouldering event, organised by the Lombardy Mountain Guides.