1129 News found

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Dripping Elegance, new mixed route in Austria's Ötztal
13/01/2011 - Alpinism
Dripping Elegance, new mixed route in Austria's Ötztal
Albert Leichtfried and Gerry Fiegl have established Dripping Elegance (M10/WI5+ 110m) in the Ötztal in Austria.
Malvasia 22 years later... the first repeat by Cody Roth and the recollections of Manolo
01/01/2011 - Climbing
Malvasia 22 years later... the first repeat by Cody Roth and the recollections of Manolo
On 28 December 2010 the American climber Cody Roth carried out the first repeat of Malvasia at Dvigrad in Croatia, the route bolted in 1987 and freed in 1988 by Maurizio 'Manolo' Zanolla which no one had managed to repeat....
Long mixed climb in the Gasterntal close Kandersteg, Switzerland
30/12/2010 - Alpinism
Long mixed climb in the Gasterntal close Kandersteg, Switzerland
Over a four day period in winter 2007 the experienced Swiss ice climbers Markus Stofer and Bernd Rathmayr established "Scharf, mit alles…" in the Gasterntal close to Kandersteg in Switzerland.
Gabriele Moroni, the fruit of the devil
21/12/2010 - Climbing
Gabriele Moroni, the fruit of the devil
Gabriele Moroni talks about Il frutto del diavolo 8c+/9a, his new route bolted and freed at Bus de Vela close to Arco, Italy.
Quo Vadis, new route by Tondini and Irsara on Sass dla Crusc, Dolomites
17/12/2010 - Alpinism
Quo Vadis, new route by Tondini and Irsara on Sass dla Crusc, Dolomites
Another new route on Sass dla Crusc (Dolomites) by Nicola Tondini and Ingo Irsara who established Quo Vadis on the massive mountain face, the symbol of the Val Badia.
Hard female climbs at Oliana, Margalef and Santa Linya in Spain
07/12/2010 - Climbing
Hard female climbs at Oliana, Margalef and Santa Linya in Spain
Daila Ojeda has redpointed "Full Equip" 8c at Oliana while Angela Eiter has sent "Ingravids Eskerps" 8c/c+ at Santa Linya, Spain.
The Greatest Flasher
06/12/2010 - Climbing
The Greatest Flasher
Paul Robinson stars in Carlo Traversi's bouldering film The Greatest Flasher.
Red, Moon and Star, new route on Kizilin Bacì by Larcher and Giupponi
02/12/2010 - Climbing
Red, Moon and Star, new route on Kizilin Bacì by Larcher and Giupponi
In October 2010 Rolando Larcher and Luca Giupponi established Red, Moon and Star (8a/8a+ max, 7b obl., 400m) up the North Face of Kizilin Bacì (Ala Daglar, Cappadocia, Turkey).
Simon Gietl, Fairplay new route on Piz Boè, Dolomites
26/11/2010 - Alpinism
Simon Gietl, Fairplay new route on Piz Boè, Dolomites
South Tyrolean mountain guide Simon Gietl recounts his Dolomite summer which includes, amongst others, the first ascent of his new route, Fairplay 9+/10- on Piz Boè in the Dolomites.
The Messner slab on the Sass dla Crusc, Dolomites
07/11/2010 - Alpinism
The Messner slab on the Sass dla Crusc, Dolomites
The famous section climbed by Reinhold Messner on the Pilastro di Mezzo on Sass dla Crusc (also referred to as Sasso della Croce or Heiligkreuzkofel), analysed by Heinz Mariacher. Plus the history, a video and an on-site report by Nicola...
Leo Houlding interview after The Prophet on El Capitan
01/11/2010 - Interviews
Leo Houlding interview after The Prophet on El Capitan
Interview with British climber after the first ascent of The Prophet on El Capitan, Yosemite, USA, carried out in 6 days in October 2010 with Jason Pickles and graded E9 7a, 5.13d R, 8b, 510m.
Atlante Perverso, new route in Taghia, Morocco
27/10/2010 - Climbing
Atlante Perverso, new route in Taghia, Morocco
From 20 - 24 September the Italians Giovanni Ongaro, Andrea Pavan and Davide Spini (Team Altroverso) established Atlante Perverso (350m, 8a max, 7b obl.) on the north face of Monte Oujad, Taghia, in the High Atlas mountain range in Morocco.
Eiger Direttissima free, Jasper and Schaeli interview after the John Harlin route
26/10/2010 - Alpinism
Eiger Direttissima free, Jasper and Schaeli interview after the John Harlin route
From 20 - 23 September 2010 Robert Jasper from Germany and Roger Schäli from Switzerland carried out the first free ascent of the John Harlin Direttissima up the North Face of the Eiger. The duo exited via the Heckmair route...
Pete Robins repeats Sea of Tranquility 8c+ at Lower Pen Trwyn
18/10/2010 - Climbing
Pete Robins repeats Sea of Tranquility 8c+ at Lower Pen Trwyn
Pete Robins has repeated Sea of Tranquility 8c+ at Lower Pen Trwyn, North Wales.
Adam Ondra is Tough Enough on Tsaranoro in Madagascar
16/10/2010 - Climbing
Adam Ondra is Tough Enough on Tsaranoro in Madagascar
Adam Ondra has carried out the first free ascent in a single day of Tough Enough (8c, 380m) on the East Face of Karambony in Tsaranoro Valley, Madagascar. He concluded his trip by repeating Bravo les Filles (8b, 600m) and...
AlexAnna, Punta Penia, Marmolada: first free ascent by Rolando Larcher
14/10/2010 - Alpinism
AlexAnna, Punta Penia, Marmolada: first free ascent by Rolando Larcher
On 14/07/2010 Rolando Larcher and climbing partner Tiziano Buccella carried out the first free ascent of AlexAnna (740m, 8a+ max, 7a+ obl.), up the Pilastro Lindo on the SW Face of Punta Penia on the Marmolada, Dolomites. Larcher had established...

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