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Millennium Bug at Cala Gonone, new route by Luca Giupponi and Maurizio Oviglia in Sardinia
10/11/2011 - Climbing
Millennium Bug at Cala Gonone, new route by Luca Giupponi and Maurizio Oviglia in Sardinia
On 19/10/2011 Luca Giupponi and Maurizio Oviglia freed Millennium Bug (7b+, 110m), their new multi-pitch outing established ground-up across the beautiful Millennium cave at Cala Gonone in Sardinia. A particular route, perhaps unique even. The report by Maurizio Oviglia.
Momento Libero, new route by Alessio Roverato on Sasso Rosso
02/11/2011 - Climbing
Momento Libero, new route by Alessio Roverato on Sasso Rosso
Last summer Alessio Roverato established Momento Libero (330m, 8a max, 7a/b obligatory), up the SE Face of Sasso Rosso (Valsugana, Valbrenta, Italy).
Shakti, new route for Riccardo Scarian
02/11/2011 - Climbing
Shakti, new route for Riccardo Scarian
On 17/10/2011 Riccardo Scarian carried out the first free ascent of Shakti (200m, max 8b+/8c, obl. 7c/8a), the route he had established in August 2011 with various partners up the SW Face of Picco delle Aquile, Monte Coppolo, Valnuvola.
Hungarob Combination, new multi-pitch on Orabeskopf, Brandberg massif, Namibia
27/10/2011 - Climbing
Hungarob Combination, new multi-pitch on Orabeskopf, Brandberg massif, Namibia
A German team of climbers comprised on Jörg Helfrich, Manuel Hofmann, Till Kramann and Alexander Stahl have put up Hungarob Combination (370m, 7c, 6c oblig) on the Orabeskopf, Brandberg massif, Namibia. Trip report by Manuel Hofmann.
Kalymnos bolt alert
18/10/2011 - Climbing
Kalymnos bolt alert
Aris Theodoropoulos warns climbers visiting the Greek island of Kalymnos about defective bolts placed on a series of new routes, listed in this post.
The Rock Bottom Line, the longest sport climb in the UK
05/10/2011 - Climbing
The Rock Bottom Line, the longest sport climb in the UK
In Twll Mawr in the Dinorwig slate quarry in Wales Ian Lloyd-Jones and Sion McGuinness have established The Rock Bottom Line (130m, 7b+).
Alex Honnold, the Yosemite Heaven and Cosmic Debris solo interview
04/10/2011 - Interviews
Alex Honnold, the Yosemite Heaven and Cosmic Debris solo interview
Interview with American climber Alex Honnold after his recent solo ascents of Heaven, Alien and Cosmic Debris in Yosemite, USA
Sasha DiGiulian rocks Rodellar, Bielsa and Margalef
26/09/2011 - Climbing
Sasha DiGiulian rocks Rodellar, Bielsa and Margalef
Interview with Sasha DiGiulian after her recent spate of hard routes in Rodellar, Bielsa and Margalef in Spain.
Mario Prinoth: Silbergeier and the Battisti - Weiss
01/09/2011 - Alpinism
Mario Prinoth: Silbergeier and the Battisti - Weiss
On 2 August 2011 Italian climber Mario Prinoth carried out a rare repeat of Silbergeier (8b/8b+, 240m) in the Rätikon, Switzerland, while on 25 May he had managed to on-sight the via Battisti - Weiss (400m, max 8a+) on Spiz delle Roe de Ciampiè (Larsec, Catinaccio, Dolomites).
Dent du Géant - Mont Blanc
03/08/2011 - Alpinism
Dent du Géant - Mont Blanc
The Dent du Geant (4013m), a great classic in the Mont Blanc range, introduced by Gianni Lanza.
Via Delenda Carthago, Sella, Dolomites
01/08/2011 - Climbing
Via Delenda Carthago, Sella, Dolomites
Alberto de Giuli introduces Via Delenda Carthago (180m, 6b max, 6a obl.) on the First Sella Tower, Dolomites.
Naranjo de Bulnes, Pou brothers free Gorilas en la Roca
18/07/2011 - Climbing
Naranjo de Bulnes, Pou brothers free Gorilas en la Roca
Iker and Eneko Pou have freed Gorilas en la Roca (7b+, 200m) on the Naranjo de Bulnes, Picos de Europa, Spain.
Twll Mawr: new route and The Quarryman
08/07/2011 - Climbing
Twll Mawr: new route and The Quarryman
Ian Lloyd-Jones and Sion McGuiness add Supermassive Black Hole (F7a, 75m) to Twll Mawr in the Llanberis slate quarries in Wales. Video of James MacHaffie on The Quarryman
The Quarryman and Strawberries - important repeats in Wales
05/07/2011 - Climbing
The Quarryman and Strawberries - important repeats in Wales
Jorg Verhoeven has made the second on-sight of Strawberries E6 at Tremadog while Steve Mcclure has carried out the first one-day ascent of The Quarryman E8 in the Dinorwig slate quarries.
Nina Caprez makes first female ascent of Silbergeier, Rätikon
04/07/2011 - Climbing
Nina Caprez makes first female ascent of Silbergeier, Rätikon
Interview with Nina Caprez after the Swiss climber carried out the first female ascent of Silbergeier, shortly after her partner Cedric Lachat repeated the 240m 8b/8b+ in the Rätikon, Switzerland.
La Banda del Buco, new route on Monte Pellegrino, Sicily
28/06/2011 - Climbing
La Banda del Buco, new route on Monte Pellegrino, Sicily
On 5-6 April 2011 the Italians Rolando Larcher, Luca Giupponi and Nicola Sartori established La banda del buco (175m, 7a+/7b max, 6c+ obbl.) a new route up the North Face of Antro della Perciata on Monte Pellegrino (Palermo, Sicily).

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