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Nevado Shaqsha, Peru: 2 new routes by Italian expedition
21/06/2010 - Alpinism
Nevado Shaqsha, Peru: 2 new routes by Italian expedition
In May the Italian 'Cordillera 2010' expedition comprised of Andrea Di Donato, Roberto Iannilli and Ivo Scappatura established "El sueño de los excluidos" (1440m, max VII/VII+, A2) on the SE Face of Nevado Shaqsha (Quebrada Rurec Valley, Huantsàn, Cordillera Blanca, Perù). During the same time period Luca D’Andrea and Massimo...
Greenland ahoy for Favresse, Villanueva and Ditto
18/06/2010 - Alpinism
Greenland ahoy for Favresse, Villanueva and Ditto
Climbers Nico and Olivier Favresse, Sean Villanueva and Ben Ditto are preparing for three month climbing trip to Greenland to explore huge virgin big walls.
Let's free our crags from in-situ quickdraws!
16/06/2010 - Climbing
Let's free our crags from in-situ quickdraws!
Maurizio Oviglia, the man responsible for hundeds of new routes all across Italy, reflects about the use and habit of leaving in-situ quickdraws on sport routes. This habit is spreading to easier routes and the implications are far deeper than a simple question of aesthetics.
Hotel Supramonte for Nina Caprez and Cédric Lachat
14/06/2010 - Climbing
Hotel Supramonte for Nina Caprez and Cédric Lachat
In mid-May Swiss climber Nina Caprez made a rare female ascent of Hotel Supramonte in Sardinia, a few days after an ascent by her boyfriend Cédric Lachat.
Grivel - Chabod, Aig. Blanche de Peuterey, ski descent
Grivel - Chabod, Aig. Blanche de Peuterey, ski descent
On 04/06/2010 Francesco Civra Dano and Luca Rolli skied the North Face of Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey (Mont Blanc) via the Grivel - Chabod route. The first and only ski descent was carried out in 1980 by Stefano De Benedetti.
Wild Country, new route on Telendos, Kalymnos
09/06/2010 - Climbing
Wild Country, new route on Telendos, Kalymnos
Urs Odermatt and Peter Keller have carried out the first ascent of Wild Country (6a, 265m) on the island of Telendos, opposite Kalymnos in Greece.
Tim Emmett adds E10 to Stennis Ford, Pembroke
08/06/2010 - Climbing
Tim Emmett adds E10 to Stennis Ford, Pembroke
Tim Emmett has made the first ascent of 'Muy Caliente!' E10 6c at Stennis Ford, Pembroke
Rock Junior for Zaila Rakhmetov
04/06/2010 - Climbing
Rock Junior for Zaila Rakhmetov
Rock Junior 2010 will collect donations for Zaila Rakhmetov
Zaila Rakhmetov, encouraging news
04/06/2010 - Climbing
Zaila Rakhmetov, encouraging news
Encouraging news about Zaila Rakhmetov, the daughter of Salavat and Guzel Rakhmetov.
Il volo di Pegasus, new route on Monte Monaco, Sicily
04/06/2010 - Climbing
Il volo di Pegasus, new route on Monte Monaco, Sicily
Austrians Albert Leichtfried and Reinhard Ranner have carried out the first ascent of Il volo di Pegasus (260m, 7a) on Monte Monaco, San Vito lo Capo, Sicily.
Plein Sud: new route up the South Face of the Grandes Jorasses
04/06/2010 - Alpinism
Plein Sud: new route up the South Face of the Grandes Jorasses
On 22 May 2010 Sergio De Leo, Michel Coranotte, Marcello Sanguineti and Marco Appino carried out the first ascent of "Plein Sud" (900m, VI, WI4+/5R, M6+), a new route up the incredible wild South Face of the Grandes Jorasses (Mont Blanc).
Arctic Monkeys, British team forges new big wall on Sail Peaks, Baffin Island
03/06/2010 - Alpinism
Arctic Monkeys, British team forges new big wall on Sail Peaks, Baffin Island
British climbers Mike 'Twid' Turner, Stuart McAleese and Mark Thomas have established their new route Arctic Monkeys (VI A4 V+ 1400m) on Sail Peaks, Baffin Island. Interview with Mike Turner about the ascent.
Monte Gallo new route above Palermo, Sicily
01/06/2010 - Climbing
Monte Gallo new route above Palermo, Sicily
Vento d’estate (290m, 6c), new route on Monte Gallo above Palermo first ascended by Max Flaccavento and Giorgio Iurato.
Monte Brento new 8b multi-pitch climb by David Lama and Jorg Verhoeven
31/05/2010 - Climbing
Monte Brento new 8b multi-pitch climb by David Lama and Jorg Verhoeven
David Lama from Austria and Jorg Verhoeven from the Netherlands have carried out the first free ascent of their "Brento Centro" 8b on Monte Brento, Valle del Sarca (Arco), Italy.
The North Face of Monte Sarmiento and the 1986 first ascent by the Ragni di Lecco
27/05/2010 - Alpinism
The North Face of Monte Sarmiento and the 1986 first ascent by the Ragni di Lecco
Contrary to what we published previously, the ascent by the Germans Robert Jasper, Jörn Heller and Ralf Gantzhorn is not the first ascent of the North Face of Monte Sarmiento, as this had previously been climbed by an Italian Ragni di Lecco expedition which on 24/12/1986 reached the West Summit...
Mateusz Haladaj, 9a hattrick
26/05/2010 - Climbing
Mateusz Haladaj, 9a hattrick
Polish climber Mateusz Haladaj has repeated his third 9a, Martin Krpan at Misja Pec, Slovenia.

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