1353 News found
28/11/2016 - Climbing
The routes climbing photographers dream of Separate Reality climbed free solo by Wolfgang Güllich and Heinz Zak, Greenspit in Valle dell’Orco by Didier Berthod and Fred Moix. Maurizio Oviglia takes a closer look at the link between photographers and the climbs they have photographed.
25/11/2016 - Interviews
Adam Ondra: the Dawn Wall El Capitan interview Interview with Czech rock climber Adam Ondra who, leading all pitches from 14 to 21 November 2016, completed the second free ascent of Dawn Wall on El Capitan, Yosemite. Considered the hardest big wall in the world, this climb was freed by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson between 2014 and...
21/11/2016 - Alpinism
Shifting Dreams: Caroline Ciavaldini climbing Voie Petit, Grand Capucin The documentary tracing the efforts of French climber Caroline Ciavaldini to make the first female free ascent of Voie Petit (8b, 450m), the difficult multi-pitch climb up Grand Capucin in the Mont Blanc massif.
13/11/2016 - Climbing
William Bosi repeats Hubble at Raven Tor On 25 October 2016 William Bosi from Scotland repeated of Hubble, Ben Moon’s 1990 masterpiece at Raven Tor, England
08/11/2016 - Alpinism
Tre Cime di Lavaredo, on Cima Grande Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini establish Das Erbe der Väter Interview with South Tyrol’s Simon Gietl who, together with, Vittorio Messini made the first ascent of ‘Das Erbe der Väter’ up the North Face of Cima Grande di Lavaredo in the Dolomites. After sharing a start with Via Comici, the new route runs to the right, breaches difficulties up to...
07/11/2016 - Climbing
Ray Jardine's Friends, a teacup and a blue bag Maurizio Oviglia recalls the invention of the Friend, the revolutionary camming device invented in the 1970s by the America’s Ray Jardine. A fun story that retraces an important moment in the history of rock climbing.
04/11/2016 - Alpinism
Via dei Balotini, new rock climb on Torre Argentina in Vallaccia, Dolomites In October 2015 on Torre Argentina in the Vallaccia group (Val di Fassa, Dolomites) the brothers Enrico Geremia and Nicolò Geremia made the first ascent of 'Via dei Balotini', a new rock climb to the right of Via Maffei - Frizzera.
02/11/2016 - Alpinism
L'uomo volante on Quarto Torrione di Mondeval, Dolomites On the Quarto Torrione di Mondeval, Lastoni of Formin group, Dolomites, Francesco Leardi and Valerio Ranzato have made the first ascent of 'L'uomo volante'. The new rock climb is dedicated to Dario Zanon, an Italian BASE Jumper who died in June 2016 during a jump in the Mont Blanc massif.
01/11/2016 - Climbing
Tom Randall: Obsession The video portrait of British rock climber Tom Randall.
31/10/2016 - Alpinism
Corsica, Bavella: Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia forge Ro.Ma. up Punta U Corbu On the 'most beautiful and famous big wall in Corsica', i.e. Punta U Corbu at Col de Bavella, Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia have completed their 'Ro-Ma Project’ to create the new multi-pitch rock climb Ro.Ma. (180m, 7c max, 7a+ obl). Oviglia provides the details.
21/10/2016 - Climbing
Chris Sharma repeats Joe Mama 9a+ at Oliana The video of American climber Chris Sharma repeating Joe Mama, a 9a+ sports climb freed by Klemen Bečan at Oliana in Spain.
18/10/2016 - Climbing
Tavolara, climbing on the Sardinian island shrouded in myth Maurizio Oviglia explores the fascinating climbing history of Tavolara Island, off the NE coast of Sardinia, and repeats 'Affora sa nato’ (6b, 215m) first ascended by Enzo Lecis and Simone Sarti in the ’90’s.
17/10/2016 - Climbing
Lifelist - Jorg Verhoeven and Katharina Saurwein climbing in Australia & Tasmania The video of Jorg Verhoeven and Katharina Saurwein sampling some of the best climbing and bouldering in Australia and Tasmania.
17/10/2016 - Climbing
The Millennium Arch climbed in Canyonlands by Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker British climbers Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker have made the first ascent of The Millennium Arch, a circa 100m roof crack at Canyonlands, USA they have now graded 5.14.
08/10/2016 - Alpinism
For Gérard Ottavio and Joel Déanoz On 6 October 2016 Gérard Ottavio, president of the Matterhorn Alpine Guides, and Joel Déanoz, director of the Breuil-Cervinia ski school, fell to their deaths on the South Face of the Matterhorn during an attempt to repeat the difficult and demanding Deffeyes - Carrel route. Their deaths are an immense...
04/10/2016 - Alpinism
Wenden, Fabio Palma and Paolo Spreafico create La lunga attesa in Switzerland Paolo Spreafico reports about 'La lunga attesa', the new rock climb established together with Fabio Palma up the marvellous Wenden limestone in Switzerland.
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