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K2 winter / High winds destroy Camp 2
11/01/2021 - Alpinism
K2 winter / High winds destroy Camp 2
The storms that hit K2 last week have wrecked Camp 2, destroying all equipment belonging to the expedition led by Nirmal Purja. The 37-year-old Nepalese mountaineer has already stated he will not give up and simply postpone his attempt to climb the last remaining eight-thousander that has never been climbed...
Makatea: climbing on French Polynesia’s paradisiacal island
14/12/2020 - Climbing
Makatea: climbing on French Polynesia’s paradisiacal island
The film Makatea Vertical Adventure by Guillaume Broust that documents the birth of climbing on the remote island of Makatea in French Polynesia.
Federica Mingolla frees Angels and Demons in Valle Orco
30/11/2020 - Alpinism
Federica Mingolla frees Angels and Demons in Valle Orco
On Caporal in Valle dell’Orco, Italy, Federica Mingolla has made the first free ascent of 'Angels and Demons', the multi-pitch rock climb started by Ezio Marlier and Massimo Farina 15 years ago Mingolla completed the route with Leonardo Gheza before freeing it with Simone Papalia. Her report, as well as...
Edu Marín frees Arco Iris, extreme multipitch at Montserrat in Spain
20/10/2020 - Climbing
Edu Marín frees Arco Iris, extreme multipitch at Montserrat in Spain
Spanish rock climber Edu Marin has made the first free ascent of Arco Iris, a 200m multi-pitch climb graded 8c+ at Montserrat in Spain, first ascended in 1979 as an aid climb by Armand Ballart and German Folch.
Orco Easy Crack, an intro to crack climbing in the Orco Valley
09/09/2020 - Climbing
Orco Easy Crack, an intro to crack climbing in the Orco Valley
Maurizio Oviglia introduces a selection of entry-level crack climbs in Valle dell’Orco: Viper, Mamba, Incastromania, Fessura del Tramonto, Fessura Kosterlitz and many others. A step-by-step guide to the trad climbing gems in Valle dell’Orco.
Aguglia di Goloritzè, Sardinia: Sole Incantatore rebolted & restored to former glory
22/05/2020 - Climbing
Aguglia di Goloritzè, Sardinia: sole Incantatore rebolted & restored to former glory
On the famous Aguglia di Goloritzè tower above Cala Goloritzè in Sardinia Maurizio Oviglia has rebolted sole Incantatore, the most repeated multi-pitch rock climb on the island. Oviglia himself established the route in 1995.
Canada will not send athletes to Olympic Games in summer 2020, including Sean McColl, Alannah Yip
23/03/2020 - Competitions
Canada will not send athletes to Olympic Games in summer 2020, including Sean McColl, Alannah Yip
The Canadian Olympic Committee has announced it will not send athletes to the Olympic Games in summer 2020 due to the risks associated with the coronavirus outbreak. Over 300 Team Canada athletes have qualified for Tokyo 2020 including Sean McColl and Alannah Yip.
Young French FFME team with Arnaud Petit establish new route in Wadi Rum, Jordan
26/02/2020 - Alpinism
Young French FFME team with Arnaud Petit establish new route in Wadi Rum, Jordan
French mountain guide Arnaud Petit and Jonathan Crison have led a young FFME expedition to Jordan where they established a new route up Jebel Rum in the Wadi Rum massif. Voie du Coeur (430m, 7c+ max, 7b obligatory) was first ascended with Eline Le Menestrel, Solène Amoros, Eloi Peretti, Romaric...
Greg Boswell, Jeff Mercier discover unclimbed ice around Lofoten and Tennevoll in Norway
17/02/2020 - Alpinism
Greg Boswell, Jeff Mercier discover unclimbed ice around Lofoten and Tennevoll in Norway
Scottish mountaineer Greg Boswell reports about his winter climbing trip with France's Jeff Mercier to the Lofoten area in Norway which resulted in a series of new ice and mixed climbs.
Cerro Cachet NE Face first ascent in Patagonia by Lukas Hinterberger, Nicolas Hojac, Stephan Siegrist
07/02/2020 - Alpinism
Cerro Cachet NE Face first ascent in Patagonia by Lukas Hinterberger, Nicolas Hojac, Stephan Siegrist
While climbing in Northern Patagonia, Swiss mountaineers Lukas Hinterberger, Nicolas Hojac and Stephan Siegrist made the first ascent of the NE Face of Cerro Cachet . The route has been called Homenaje a los amigos perdidos in memory of David Lama, Ueli Steck and Julian Zanker. Hinterberger reports.
Matteo Della Bordella repeats Itaca nel Sole in Valle dell'Orco, Italy
27/01/2020 - Alpinism
Matteo Della Bordella repeats Itaca nel sole in Valle dell'Orco, Italy
Italian alpinist Matteo Della Bordella has repeated Itaca nel sole on the Caporal in Valle Orco. Established in 1975 by Gian Piero Motti and Guido Morello, this multi-pitch route was freed in 2003 by Cristian Brenna.
Elias Iagnemma completes historic Grotti project, Ultimo Tango in Zagarolo
07/01/2020 - Climbing
Elias Iagnemma completes historic Grotti project, Ultimo Tango in Zagarolo
At the Italian crag Grotti, Elias Iagnemma has made the first ascent of an old project made famous by local climber Alessandro Lamberti, Ultimo Tango in Zagarolo. Iagnemma suggests the grade 9a/+
Heinz Mariacher: Back to the future? Magnus Midtbø explores Arco's historic slab climbs
27/11/2019 - Climbing
Heinz Mariacher: Back to the future? Magnus Midtbø explores Arco's historic slab climbs
Heinz Mariacher shares his thoughts after Magnus Midtbø paid a visit to Arco, Italy, during which the Norwegian climber attempted to classic slab climbs dating back to the 1980s and first ascended by Mariacher himself: Super Swing at the Swing Area and Tom & Jerry at Spiaggia delle Lucertole.
500+, new multi-pitch rock climb up Domuzucan Peak in Turkey
18/11/2019 - Alpinism
500+, new multi-pitch rock climb up Domuzucan Peak in Turkey
An Italian (Gilberto Merlante), a Pole (Wojtek Szeliga) and a Turk (Tunc Findic) have made the first ascent of 500+, a multi-pitch rock climb up the west face of Domuzucan Peak close to Geyikbayiri in Turkey.
Elias Iagnemma climbing Ten at Vado di Sole in Abruzzo, Italy
08/11/2019 - Climbing
Elias Iagnemma climbing Ten at Vado di sole in Abruzzo, Italy
Watch Elias Iagnemma make the first ascent of Ten at the crag of Vado di sole, the first route in Abruzzo, Italy, graded 9a/a+.
Elias Iagnemma establishes Ten at Vado di Sole, hardest sport climb in Abruzzo
11/10/2019 - Climbing
Elias Iagnemma establishes Ten at Vado di sole, hardest sport climb in Abruzzo
Italian boulderer Elias Iagnemma has made the first ascent of Ten at Vado di sole in Abruzzo, Italy. This is the first route in the region graded 9a/a+.