154 News found
22/09/2021 - Alpinism
Simon Gietl, Roger Schäli climb Matterhorn Schmid route in North6 project After Cima Grande di Lavaredo, Pizzo Badile and the Eiger, alpinists Simon Gietl and Roger Schäli have now climbed the Matterhorn via the Schmid route. To complete their North6 project, only two famous north faces of the Alps are still...
16/09/2021 - Alpinism
Simon Gietl, Roger Schäli start North6 project with Cima Grande di Lavaredo and Pizzo Badile With the ascents of Cima Grande di Lavaredo in the Dolomites and Pizzo Badile in the Central Alps, Italian mountaineer Simon Gietl and his Swiss counterpart Roger Schäli have successfully started their North6 project which aims to climb the six...
09/09/2021 - Alpinism
Dani Arnold climbs Petit Dru North Face speed solo On 15 August 2021 Dani Arnold made a solo ascent of the North Face of the Petit Dru (3733m) in the Mont Blanc massif, climbing the historic Allain-Leininger route (900m TD+) in just 1 hour, 43 minutes.
23/07/2021 - Alpinism
Nicola Castagna, Gabriel Perenzoni complete the 82 x 4000m peaks of the Alps in 80 days Italian alpinists Nicola Castagna and Gabriel Perenzoni have managed to climb all 82 peaks over 4,000 meters in the Alps. The trainee mountain guides set off on 4 May and required 80 days to complete the climbs.
01/03/2021 - Interviews
Alex Buisse and his Mont Blanc Lines climbing posters Interview with French photographer Alex Buisse about his Mont Blanc Lines climbing poster project.
26/02/2021 - Alpinism
grandes jorasses new climb by Matteo Della Bordella, Giacomo Mauri, Luca Schiera On 24/02/2021 the Italian mountaineers Matteo Della Bordella, Giacomo Mauri and Luca Schiera made the first ascent of Il Regalo di Berna, a new route on the South Face of the grandes jorasses dedicated to Matteo Bernasconi. Della Bordella reports.
06/11/2020 - Alpinism
K6 Central first ascent in Pakistan by Priti and Jeff Wright American alpinists Priti and Jeff Wright made the first ascent of K6 Central (7,155m) in the Karakorum in Pakistan on 9 October 2020, a day after making the third ascent of K6 West (7140m). The Wright’s report about their impressive alpine...
28/09/2020 - Climbing
Remembering Kurt Albert, German climbing legend and father of the redpoint Precisely 10 years ago German climbing legend Kurt Albert died at the age of 56. He invented the redpoint philosophy in Frankenjura in 1975, considered nowadays the standard for sport climbing worldwide, and established numerous important rock climbs and big...
21/08/2020 - Alpinism
grandes jorasses: Federica Mingolla, Leo Gheza repeat Il Giovane Guerriero for Matteo Pasquetto Federica Mingolla and Leo Gheza have made the first repeat of Il Giovane Guerriero, Young Warrior, the route established only recently up the east face of the grandes jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif by Matteo Della Bordella, Matteo Pasquetto...
18/08/2020 - Alpinism
Symon Welfringer completes spicy month in Mont Blanc massif French mountaineer Symon Welfringer has had a productive July and August in the Mont Blanc massif which includes a single day, all-free ascent of Manitua on the North Face of the grandes jorasses.
08/08/2020 - Alpinism
Matteo Pasquetto perishes on grandes jorasses Yesterday afternoon Matteo Pasquetto, the talented Italian alpinist and aspirant mountain guide, lost his life while descending from the grandes jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif.
05/08/2020 - Alpinism
grandes jorasses North Face: Federica Mingolla, Leo Gheza repeat Manitua Italian alpinist Federica Mingolla reports about her repeat with Leonardo Gheza of Manitua, the difficult route first ascended solo by Slavko Svetičič in 1991 on the north face of the grandes jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif.
23/07/2020 - Alpinism
Catherine Destivelle awarded Piolet d'Or Carrière Lifetime Achievement Award French mountaineer Catherine Destivelle will become the first woman to receive the Piolet d'Or Carrière Lifetime Achievement Award at the Ladek Mountain Festival in Poland in September. In the past the coveted prize has been awarded to greatest mountaineers of...
19/07/2020 - Alpinism
grandes jorasses East Face new climb by Jérôme Sullivan, Jérémy Brauge, Victor Saucède French alpinist and mountain guide Jérôme Sullivan reports about Mad Max, a new route up the East Face of grandes jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif established from 8-9 July 2020 with Jérémy Brauge and Victor Saucède.
22/06/2020 - Alpinism
Walter Bonatti would have turned 90 today In order to remember the great mountaineer and extremely special man who passed away in 2011, we’ve published the thoughts and memories of his inseparable life partner Rossana Podestà.
24/04/2020 - Alpinism
Tom Ballard, the film about the great British climber Tom, the film by Angel Esteban and Elena Goatelli, is now online. This documents the attempt of British mountaineer Tom Ballard to become the first to solo in the same winter season the six great North Faces of the Alps:...
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