129 News found

02/08/2018 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2018: Gasherbrum I, Shispare, Nilkanth win, Nilkanth and Alex Honnold receive special mention Three ascents have been selected for the Piolets d'Or 2018: Gasherbrum I climbed by Zdeněk Hák and Marek Holeček, Shispare climbed by Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima and Nuptse NW climbed by Frédéric Degoulet, Benjamin Guigonnet and Hélias Millerioux. Special mentions have been awarded for the ascent of Nilkanth by...

11/07/2018 - Alpinism
Maurizio Giordano perishes climbing Gasherbrum IV 32-year-old mountaineer Italian Maurizio Giordano from the Aosta Military Expedition perished while climbing Gasherbrum IV in Karakorum, Pakistan.

12/03/2018 - Snow Ski-skimountaineering
Red Bull Der Lange Weg, the great ski tour traverse of the Alps begins 17 March 2018 is the starting date of the Red Bull Der Lange Weg, the immense ski mountaineering traverse across the Alps from Viena to Nice following in the footsteps of the historic 1971 Austrian team comprised of Robert Kittl, Klaus Hoi, Hansjörg Farbmacher and Hans Mariacher. An international team...

27/02/2018 - Alpinism
Denis Trento enchaines the Aigle & bonatti couloirs on Petit Mont Blanc In the Miage area of the Mont Blanc massif, Denis Trento has linked two legendary couloirs on Petit Mont Blanc: bonatti and Aigle.

23/01/2018 - Alpinism
Cerro Adela Sur, new Romanian variation by Vlad Capusan, Zsolt Török in Patagonia Romanian mountaineers Vlad Capusan and Zsolt Török have added a new variation to Filo Este on Cerro Adela Sur in Patagonia. The logical new line was climbed in 34 hours.

18/08/2017 - Alpinism
L'or du temps, new climb up Grand Capucin by Arnaud Petit and Nina Caprez Over 4 days this summer France’s Arnaud Petit and Switzerland’s Nina Caprez made the first ascent of L'or du temps, a new route up the South Face of Grand Capucin, Mont Blanc massif.

24/07/2017 - Alpinism
Catherine Destivelle, climbing and alpinism there where it is dangerous to lean out A portrait and two videos of Catherine Destivelle, one the most talented climbers and alpinists of all times.

24/04/2017 - Alpinism
Hervé Barmasse, Shisha Pangma and the lure of unpredictable mountaineering Interview with Hervé Barmasse, the Italian alpinist and Matterhorn mountain guide who together with Germany’s David Göttler will attempt a new route up the South Face of Shisha Pangma (8027m) in Tibet. Should things go according to plan this would be Barmasse’s first 8000er.

17/04/2017 - Alpinism
Cerro Mariposa and the Patagonian adventure of Luca Schiera and Paolo Marazzi On 15 and 16 March 2017 Luca Schiera and Paolo Marazzi made the first ascent of Produci consuma crepa, a new 900m rock climb with difficulties up to 6c A2, on the NE Face of Cerro Mariposa, Rio Turbio valley, Patagonia. Luca Schiera reports

04/03/2017 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses: No Siesta e bonatti - Vaucher climbed by Luka Lindič and Ines Papert Winter mountaineering: Luka Lindič and Ines Papert ascended the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses (4208m) in the Mont Blanc massif, France, combining the routes 'No Siesta' and 'bonatti - Vaucher' from 20 - 22 February 2017 and with two bivies.

03/03/2017 - Alpinism
Jeff Lowe awarded Piolet d'Or Carrière 2017 American alpinist Jeff Lowe has been awarded the Piolets d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award. The prize will be assigned during the 25th edition of the mountaineering prize that will be celebrated in Grenoble, France, from 12 - 15 April. In the past the prize has been awarded to Walter bonatti, Reinhold...

14/02/2017 - Alpinism
Walter bonatti archive acquired by Turin Mountain Museum In October 2016 the Turin-based Mountain Museum acquired the archive of Italian alpinist Walter bonatti; a immense treasure that still needs to be catalogued, studied and archived for the history of mountaineering and more.

18/01/2017 - Alpinism
Erich Abram, farewell to the last Italian K2 mountaineer South Tyrolean mountaineer Erich Abram passed away on Monday 16 January 2017 at Bozen aged 95. The talented mountaineer and climber played an important role in the 1954 Italian expedition that made the first ascent of K2.

28/12/2016 - Alpinism
A Winter's Tale / Tre Cime di Lavaredo trilogy by Christoph Hainz and Simon Kehrer On 23 December 2016 on the Drei Zinnen / Tre Cime di Lavaredo (Dolomites) Simon Kehrer and Christoph Hainz completed a beautiful winter trilogy by climbing Via Comici-Dimai up Cima Grande (in 2:30), Via Cassin up Cima Ovest (in 3:25), and Spigolo Giallo up Cima Piccola (in 1:28). The South...

19/12/2016 - Climbing
Manolo, climbing and Il Mattino dei Maghi: first repeat in 35 years On 7 December 2016 Maurizio Manolo Zanolla, belayed by Daniele Lira shortly before his 59th birthday, made the second ascent and first repeat of Il Mattino dei Maghi, the legendary climb first ascended in 1981 by Manolo at the crag Totoga (Pale di San Martino, Dolomites) and, until now, unrepeated.

30/07/2016 - Alpinism
Aleš Česen and Luka Lindič climb Broad Peak and Gasherbrum IV North Summit On 12 July 2016 Slovenian alpinists Aleš Česen and Luka Lindič reached the summit of Broad Peak. Two weeks later they climbed the Northwest Ridge of Gasherbrum IV, reaching the North Summit (7900m) on 26 July 2016.
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