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Juho Knuuttila adds new two committing mixed climbs to Rånkeipen in Norway, one rope-solo
11/01/2023 - Alpinism
Juho Knuuttila adds new two committing mixed climbs to Rånkeipen in Norway, one rope-solo
Finnish alpinist Juho Knuuttila (27) has added two new mixed climbs on the SW Face of Rånkeipen close to Narvik in Norway. 'Arctic Circus' (M6, WI6) was first ascended with Alexander Nordvall (29), while 'Polar Vortex' (M6, WI6) was established rope-solo. Knuuttila provides the details.
New route on Cerro Arenales, Patagonia, climbed by Rebeca Cáceres, Nadine Lehner, Isidora Llarena
03/01/2023 - Alpinism
New route on Cerro Arenales, Patagonia, climbed by Rebeca Cáceres, Nadine Lehner, Isidora Llarena
From 29 October to 16 November 2022 Rebeca Cáceres, Nadine Lehner and Isidora Llarena established a new route on Cerro Arenales above the Northern Patagonian Icefield. In order to do so, the three women completed an 150km autonomous traverse through this remote region. Lehner provides the details.
Two multi-pitch climbs rebolted at Masua in Sardinia, Italy
31/12/2022 - Climbing
Two multi-pitch climbs rebolted at Masua in Sardinia, Italy
At Masua in Sardinia Maurizio Oviglia, Cecilia Marchi and mountain guide Marco Bigatti have rebolted two multi-pitch routes, 'Non spezzarmi il cuore' and 'Hard o Soft?'. The two climbs are located on the Parete del Sol Levante, an incredible rock face of unparalleled wild beauty overlooking the sea. Oviglia reports
Grand new big wall climbed on Northern Sun Spire in Greenland by Capucine Cotteaux, Caro North, Nadia Royo Cremer
27/12/2022 - Alpinism
Grand new big wall climbed on Northern Sun Spire in Greenland by Capucine Cotteaux, Caro North, Nadia Royo Cremer
From 4 - 7 August 2022 Caro North, Capucine Cotteaux and Nadia Royo Cremer made the first ascent of Via Sedna up the unclimbed East face of Northern Sun Spire in Greenland. The trio established the impressive 780m 7b+/A0 after travelling to the mountain by sailing boat from France with...
Moritz Welt liberates Lazarus (9a+) at Schiefer Tod in Frankenjura
20/12/2022 - Climbing
Moritz Welt liberates Lazarus (9a+) at Schiefer Tod in Frankenjura
German climber Moritz Welt has made the first ascent of a former Markus Bock project at Schiefer Tod in the Frankenjura, calling it Lazarus and grading it 9a+.
Martina Demmel climbs beautiful Kochel testpieces
19/12/2022 - Climbing
Martina Demmel climbs beautiful Kochel testpieces
At Kochel am See in Germany Martina Demmel has repeated Heim nach Afrika (9a) and Chaos in Palumbia (8c+) at Atlantiswand.
New Tsaranoro multipitch in Madagascar by Thibau Grandjean, Jan Novak
16/12/2022 - Climbing
New Tsaranoro multipitch in Madagascar by Thibau Grandjean, Jan Novak
In July 2022 Jan Novak and Thibau Grandjean made the first ascent of Circoncision (150m, 7a+) a new 150m multipitch on Lemur Wall in the Tsaranoro mountains of Madagascar. Novak, usually behind the lens of his camera, reports.
New mixed climb added to Sass Pordoi (Dolomites) by Simon Gietl, Andrea Oberbacher
13/12/2022 - Alpinism
New mixed climb added to Sass Pordoi (Dolomites) by Simon Gietl, Andrea Oberbacher
On 10/12/2022 the two South Tyrolean mountain guides Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher made the first ascent of Avatar, a new mixed climb up the NW Face of Sasso Pordoi in the Dolomites.
Scottish winter climbing: Greg Boswell, Guy Robertson debut on Nihilist at Lochnagar
12/12/2022 - Alpinism
Scottish winter climbing: Greg Boswell, Guy Robertson debut on Nihilist at Lochnagar
Greg Boswell and Guy Robertson have made the first winter ascent of Nihilist IX 9 at Lochnagar in Scotland.
Vanishing giants: the tropical glaciers of Colombia facing extinction
07/12/2022 - Environment
Vanishing giants: the tropical glaciers of Colombia facing extinction
Colombian mountaineer, photographer and documentary filmmaker Gustavo Acosta shares his knowledge and photographs about the shrinking tropical glaciers of Colombia.
New route on Lasunayoc in Peru’s Cordillera Vilcabamba by Nathan Heald, Leo Rasalio
05/12/2022 - Alpinism
New route on Lasunayoc in Peru’s Cordillera Vilcabamba by Nathan Heald, Leo Rasalio
Nathan Heald reports about the first ascent of new route up the SE Face of Nevado Lasunayoc (5,936m) in the Pumasillo massif of the Cordillera Vilcabamba in Peru. The new mixed climb, carried out with local mountaineer Leo Rasalio, is only the 9th documented ascent of this peak.
Niccolò Ceria climbs Bügeleisen Sit 8C in Maltatal
30/11/2022 - Climbing
Niccolò Ceria climbs Bügeleisen Sit 8C in Maltatal
On 11/11/2022 Niccolò Ceria repeated Bügeleisen Sit, the 8C boulder problem first climbed in 2014 by Nalle Hukkataival.
Annapurna III Piolet d'Or 2022 video
28/11/2022 - Alpinism
Annapurna III Piolet d'Or 2022 video
The video of the first ascent of the southeast ridge of Annapurna III (7,555m), carried out by Nikita Balabanov, Mikail Fomin and Viacheslav Polezhaiko. The climb received a Special Jury Award at the Piolets d'Or 2022.
Watch Sean Villanueva complete his Fitz Roy Moonwalk Traverse in the Piolet d'Or 2022 video
22/11/2022 - Alpinism
Watch Sean Villanueva complete his Fitz Roy Moonwalk Traverse in the Piolet d'Or 2022 video
The video of Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll which was awarded a Piolets d'Or 2022: the Moonwalk Traverse, ie the solo traverse from south to north of the Fitz Roy massif in Patagonia, carried out by the Belgian mountaineer from 5 - 10 February 2021.
Kirti-Nose climbed in India's Garhwal Himalaya by Jonas Schild, Andy Schnarf, Stephan Siegrist
21/11/2022 - Alpinism
Kirti-Nose climbed in India's Garhwal Himalaya by Jonas Schild, Andy Schnarf, Stephan Siegrist
In October 2022 Swiss alpinists Jonas Schild, Andy Schnarf, Stephan Siegrist made what is likely to be the first ascent of the Kirti-Nose in the Garhwal Himalaya of India via their line 'Between two Parties' (350m, 7b/A3).
Adam Ondra establishes Zvěřinec, new 9b+ in Czechia
20/11/2022 - Climbing
Adam Ondra establishes Zvěřinec, new 9b+ in Czechia
On 20/11/2022 at Holštejn in the Moravian Karst in the Czech Republic Adam Ondra made the first ascent of Zvěřinec, a 9b+ he rates as 'the second hardest route of my life.'

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