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Monte Sarmiento, Patagonia, North Face first ascent
23/04/2010 - Alpinism
Monte Sarmiento, Patagonia, North Face first ascent
At the start of April the Germans Robert Jasper, Jörn Heller and Ralf Gantzhorn reached the West summit of Monte Sarmiento (2145m) via a new route up the North Face.
  • CORRECTION 05/2010: the north face had already been climbed by an Italian Ragni di Lecco expedition in 1986
  • Simon Gietl, from the new route in Patagonia to the Phantom der Zinne
    20/04/2010 - Alpinism
    Simon Gietl, from the new route in Patagonia to the Phantom der Zinne
    Even if spring is at the doorstep, it's worth analysing the climbs of Simon Gietl from the South Tyrol, who this winter carried out the first ascent in Patagonia together with Roger Schäli before repeating the famous Phantom der Zinner on the Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Dolomites together with Marc...
    Climbing in South Africa around Cape Town
    18/03/2010 - Climbing
    Climbing in South Africa around Cape Town
    Tony Lourens, the editor of SA Mountain Sport Magazine, shares the delights of rock climbing around Cape Town at the tip of Africa.
    Takargo first ascent by Joseph Puryear and David Gottlieb
    15/03/2010 - Alpinism
    Takargo first ascent by Joseph Puryear and David Gottlieb
    Americans Joseph Puryear and David Gottlieb have made the first ascent of Takargo (6771 meters) via its East Face in Nepal.
    Sellaronda, one long roller coaster of emotions
    08/03/2010 - Competitions
    Sellaronda, one long roller coaster of emotions
    On 05/03/2010 the 15th Sellaronda Skimarathon, the historic ski mountaineering race in the Dolomites, was won by Guido Giacomelli and Hansjoerg Lunger ahead of Thomas Martini and Matteo Pedergnana, followed by Ivan Antiga and Trettel Thomas. The womens' event was won by the Weger and Gross. The extenuating and freezing...
    When icefalls crack
    25/02/2010 - Alpinism
    When icefalls crack
    The story of an ice pillar collapsing. An adventure which thankfully resulted in no injuries, but which provides ample food for thought...
    Gorillas im Nebel, new mixed route in the Zillertal, Austria
    18/02/2010 - Alpinism
    Gorillas im Nebel, new mixed route in the Zillertal, Austria
    On 15 February Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner carried out the first free ascent of "Gorillas im Nebel" (120m, M10/WI6) in the Zillertal, Austria.
    Waiting for Godot, Torres del Paine, Patagonia first ascent by  Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr
    03/02/2010 - Climbing
    Waiting for Godot, Torres del Paine, Patagonia first ascent by Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr
    Diary extract and interview with Hansjörg Auer after the first ascent of Waiting for Godot, Central Tower Torres del Paine, Patagonia, carried out with Much Mayr from Austria.
    Spray On, Will Gadd and Tim Emmett climb big ice at the Helmcken Falls, Canada
    02/02/2010 - Alpinism
    Spray On, Will Gadd and Tim Emmett climb big ice at the Helmcken Falls, Canada
    Will Gadd from Canada teamed up with Tim Emmett from Britain to carry out the first ascent of Spray On, a 30m ice climb at the Helmcken Falls they tentatively graded WI10.
    Tawoche Central South Buttress by Renan Ozturk and Cory Richards
    01/02/2010 - Alpinism
    Tawoche Central South Buttress by Renan Ozturk and Cory Richards
    In mid-January Renan Ozturk (USA) and Cory Richards (CAN) carried out the first ascent of the Central South Buttress of Tawoche (Khumbu Valley, Nepal) in alpine style (1200m ED2 VI 5.10 M4/5).
    Centercourt WI7+, new extreme ice climb in Austria's Gasteinertal by Leichtfried and Purner
    12/01/2010 - Alpinism
    Centercourt WI7+, new extreme ice climb in Austria's Gasteinertal by Leichtfried and Purner
    On 07/01/2010 Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner made the first ascent of the 300m "Centercourt" in the Gasteinertal. Graded WI7+, this is the hardest pure iceline in Austria and one of the hardest in the world.
    Fabio Giacomelli killed by avalanche at Cerro Torre
    07/01/2010 - Alpinism
    Fabio Giacomelli killed by avalanche at Cerro Torre
    On 01 January 2010 Fabio Giacomelli, the 51 year old mountaineer from Trentino, Italy, died in an avalanche at the base of the East Face of Cerro Torre. After a three day search climbing partner Elio Orlandi managed to locate the lifeless body.
    Climbing stories in Val San Nicolò, Italy
    24/12/2009 - Climbing
    Climbing stories in Val San Nicolò, Italy
    One day Heinz opened two new routes in Valle San Nicolò (Val di Fassa, Dolomites) and 22 years later he gave the route to Mario, who freed them. This is the story of "Alice e l'imperatore" and "Basic Instinct", told by Heinz Mariacher and Mario Prinoth.
    Leichtfried and Purner do the Moonwalk, the longest icefall in Austria
    08/12/2009 - Alpinism
    Leichtfried and Purner do the Moonwalk, the longest icefall in Austria
    Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner have carried out the first ascent Moonwalk WI6/M7, at 1000m the longest icefall in Austria.
    Targassonne bouldering in France
    01/12/2009 - Climbing
    Targassonne bouldering in France
    One of the most important bouldering areas in Europe is located close to the small village of Targassonne in the French Pyrenees. Electra Brunialti and Enea Colnago introduce these beautiful granite boulders.
    Greenland climbing Plaisir 2009
    02/11/2009 - Climbing
    Greenland climbing Plaisir 2009
    In July Mountain Guides Michele Maggioni and Daniele Bernasconi established two new routes around Disko Island, Qioqe Peninsula, Greenland