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Japanese expedition climbs Lhotse South Face
30/03/2007 - Alpinism
Japanese expedition climbs Lhotse south face
At the end of December a Japanese expedition led by Osamu Tanabe managed to climb the south Fasce of Lhotse (8516m) in winter, but turned back 40m short of the summit.
Ueli Steck races the Eiger North Face in 3 hours 54 minutes
13/03/2007 - Alpinism
Ueli Steck races the Eiger North Face in 3 hours 54 minutes
On 21 February Ueli Steck from Switzerland climbed the North Face of the Eiger in a record time of 3.54.
Piolet d'or 2006 awarded to Prezelj and Lorencic for Chomo Lhari
29/01/2007 - Alpinism
Piolet d'or 2006 awarded to Prezelj and Lorencic for Chomo Lhari
On 26 January 2007 Marko Prezelj and Boris Lorencic from Slovenia were awarded the "Golden ice axe" for their new route on Chomo Lhari. Pavle Kozjek was awarded the Spectators Choice for his new route climbed solo up Cho Oyu....
Marmolada: Bubu Bole first all-lead ascent of Larcher-Vigiani
28/09/2006 - Alpinism
Marmolada: Bubu Bole first all-lead ascent of Larcher-Vigiani
On 10 September Mauro "Bubu" Bole made the first all-lead ascent of the "Larcher-Vigiani" together with Jenny Lavarda on the Marmolada, Dolomites, Italy.
Colpo di coda new Marmolada outing by Giordani e Faletti
13/09/2006 - Climbing
Colpo di coda new Marmolada outing by Giordani e Faletti
Maurizio Giordani and Massimo Faletti have made the first ascent of the 28-pitch "Colpo di Coda" 6c+/A2 up the south face of the Marmolada.
Ines Papert first female repeat of Camillotto Pellesier
28/07/2006 - Climbing
Ines Papert first female repeat of Camillotto Pellesier
On 20 July Ines Papert from Germany made an impressive first female ascent of Camillotto Pellesier on the North Face of Cima Grande, Dolomites. The old aid route, first ascended in 1967 by E. Mauro and M. Minuzzo, had been...
Hansjörg Auer solos Marmolada's Tempi Moderni
14/07/2006 - Alpinism
Hansjörg Auer solos Marmolada's Tempi Moderni
On 11 June 2006 the Austrian Hansjörg Auer made a rare solo repeat of one of the most classic routes in the Dolomites, the 850m Tempi Moderni situated on the south face of the Marmolada, Dolomites.
Solo per vecchi guerrieri - Manolo's latest gem
06/07/2006 - Climbing
Solo per vecchi guerrieri - Manolo's latest gem
Maurizio "Manolo" Zanolla has climbed the 150m "Solo per vecchi guerrieri", 8c/9a max and 7c/8a obligatory on the Vette Feltrine, Dolomites.
JC Lafaille missing on Makalu
01/02/2006 - Alpinism
JC Lafaille missing on Makalu
For 6 days no one has heard anything from Jean-Christophe Lafaille, currently engaged in the difficult first winter ascent (and, above all, solo) of Makalu, the fifth highest mountain in the world.
Larcher and Vigiani repeat Sur le fil des apparences,
30/09/2005 - Alpinism
Larcher and Vigiani repeat Sur le fil des apparences,
On 14/09 Rolando Larcher and Roberto Vigiani made the first repeat and first on-sight of 'Sur le fil des apparences', first ascended in 2003 by Philippe Mussatto and Rémy Duhoux on the Specchio di Sara Pillar on the south face...
Great Trango new route by Kopold and Cmarik
16/09/2005 - Alpinism
Great Trango new route by Kopold and Cmarik
In mid-August Dodo Kopold and Gabo Cmarik from Slovakia made the first ascent of "Assalam Alaikum" UIAA VIII A2, ABO on Great Trango, Pakistan.
Il Piccolo Principe, Punta Larsei, new route
16/09/2005 - Climbing
Il Piccolo Principe, Punta Larsei, new route
Nicola Tondini and Dario Segato have made the first ascent of "Piccolo Principe" 250m, 8 pitches, max 7a+. on the south face of Punta dei Larsei, Sella, Dolomites.
Spirit: second on-sight for Manolo
08/08/2005 - Climbing
Spirit: second on-sight for Manolo
on 05/08 Maurizio "Manolo" Zanolla" made the second on-sight of Spirit, (Cima Merionale, Cime d'Auta, Dolomites).
Pederiva & Prinoth repeat Marmolada's Larcher& Vigiani
20/07/2005 - Climbing
Pederiva & Prinoth repeat Marmolada's Larcher& Vigiani
On Sunday 17 July Bruno Pederiva and Mario Prinoth made the first repeat of the 'LarcherVigiani' on the south face of the Marmolada.
Russian success for Piolet d'Or 2004, House wins spectators award.
28/02/2005 - Events
Russian success for Piolet d'Or 2004, House wins spectators award.
The prestigious Piolet d'Or 2004 promoted by Montagne Magazine was won by the Russian team for its ascent of Jannu. Steve House won the spectators award for his solitary ascent of K7.
Piolet d'or 2004, the six candidates
10/02/2005 - Alpinism
Piolet d'or 2004, the six candidates
The jury, headed by Krzysztof Wielicki, and the six candidates for the Piolet d'Or 2004 promoted by Montagnes Magazine