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Simon Messner, Martin Sieberer add mixed climbs to Großer Greiner in Zillertal Alps
21/12/2020 - Alpinism
Simon Messner, Martin Sieberer add mixed climbs to Großer Greiner in Zillertal Alps
Earlier this autumn alpinists Simon Messner and Martin Sieberer established two new mixed routes, Käse-Greiner and Nordwandrampe, on the north face of Großer Greiner in Austria’s Zillertal Alps.
Monte Nero di Presanella new climb by Santiago Padrós, Francesco Rigon
11/12/2020 - Alpinism
Monte Nero di Presanella new climb by Santiago Padrós, Francesco Rigon
On 27 November 2020, the mountain guides Francesco Rigon and Santiago Padrós established a new mixed climb on Monte Nero di Presanella (Adamello - Presanella group, Italy). Called Illogika, the new line probably has some sections in common with a 1964 summer route. Padrós reports.
Dave MacLeod, Iain Small establish Nevermore on Ben Nevis, Scotland
10/12/2020 - Alpinism
Dave MacLeod, Iain Small establish Nevermore on Ben Nevis, Scotland
Scottish climbers Dave MacLeod and Iain Small have made the first ascent of the mixed climb Nevermore on Ben Nevis, Scotland.
Amore Supercombo on Pizzo Badile climbed by David Hefti, Marcel Schenk
09/12/2020 - Alpinism
Amore Supercombo on Pizzo Badile climbed by David Hefti, Marcel Schenk
On 27/11/2020 Marcel Schenk and David Hefti climbed Amore Supercombo, a variation of the mixed climbs Amore di Vetro and Nordest Supercombo on the NE Face of Pizzo Badile. The line was repeated three days later by Corrado Pesce, Andrea Di Donato and Michael Wohlleben.
Goodbye Doug Scott
07/12/2020 - Alpinism
Goodbye Doug Scott
British mountaineer Doug Scott passed away today. Aged 79, he was recognised as one of the greatest mountaineers of all times.
Bernd Zangerl explores his limits on Grenzenlos in Valle dell’Orco
02/12/2020 - Climbing
Bernd Zangerl explores his limits on Grenzenlos in Valle dell’Orco
Austrian boulderer Bernd Zangerl has made the first ascent of a difficult crack called Grenzenlos in Valle Orco, Italy. Protected with a pecker, it is a mix between a trad climb and a highball.
Federica Mingolla frees Angels and Demons in Valle Orco
30/11/2020 - Alpinism
Federica Mingolla frees Angels and Demons in Valle Orco
On Caporal in Valle dell’Orco, Italy, Federica Mingolla has made the first free ascent of 'Angels and Demons', the multi-pitch rock climb started by Ezio Marlier and Massimo Farina 15 years ago Mingolla completed the route with Leonardo Gheza before freeing it with Simone Papalia. Her report, as well as...
Sébastien Bouin makes first repeat of Fred Rouhling’s De l’autre Côté du Ciel
28/11/2020 - Climbing
Sébastien Bouin makes first repeat of Fred Rouhling’s De l’autre Côté du Ciel
French rock climber Seb Bouin has made the first repeat of another Fred Rouhling 1990’s testpiece, De l’autre Côté du Ciel at Les Eaux Claires.
24 hours of freedom on Sagwand in Valsertal by Martin Feistl, Sven Brand
24/11/2020 - Alpinism
24 hours of freedom on Sagwand in Valsertal by Martin Feistl, Sven Brand
In mid-November 2020 Martin Feistl and Sven Brand in Valsertal, Austria, made the first ascent of 24 hours of freedom (300m, M6, WI 4, X) on the north face of Sagwand. This is a direct start to Rampenführe, the original line up the face, and shares a short section with...
Fred Rouhling's Akira finally repeated after 25 years by Sébastien Bouin, Lucien Martinez
23/11/2020 - Climbing
Fred Rouhling's Akira finally repeated after 25 years by Sébastien Bouin, Lucien Martinez
Akira, the famous sport climb established by Fred Rouhling in 1995, has finally been repeated for the first time by Sébastien Bouin and Lucien Martinez. According to the two young Frenchmen the route is a difficult 9a, and not 9b as suggested by Rouhling 25 years ago.
Laura Rogora repeats The Bow 9a+ at Arco, Julia Chanourdie and Eva Hammelmüller send 8c+
23/11/2020 - Climbing
Laura Rogora repeats The Bow 9a+ at Arco, Julia Chanourdie and Eva Hammelmüller send 8c+
Yesterday at Padaro in Arco, Italy, Laura Rogora claimed the first repeat of The Bow, a 9a+ established in July by Stefano Ghisolfi. Julia Chanourdie and Eva Hammelmüller for their part have both repeated 8c+.
Alexander Huber, Guido Unterwurzacher free Magellan on Urlkopf in Austria
22/11/2020 - Alpinism
Alexander Huber, Guido Unterwurzacher free Magellan on Urlkopf in Austria
Last August Alexander Huber and Guido Unterwurzacher made the first free ascent of Magellan, a 15-year-old project on Urlkopf close to Loferer Alm in Austria. Huber reports.
Climbing on Greenland's Sharks Tooth: the film featuring Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach, Christian Ledergerber
21/11/2020 - Alpinism
Climbing on Greenland's Sharks Tooth: the film featuring Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach, Christian Ledergerber
Tonight at 8.00 pm the film 'The Great Shark Hunt: Climb and kayak in Greenland', documenting the by fair means climbing expedition to Greenland carried out in 2014 by Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach and Christian Ledergerber.
Sébastien Berthe sends his first 9a+, Super-Crackinette at St. Leger
20/11/2020 - Climbing
Sébastien Berthe sends his first 9a+, Super-Crackinette at St. Leger
Belgian climber Seb Berthe reports about his first 9a+ redpoint, Super-Crackinette at Saint-Léger-du-Ventoux in France. Success came about after a relentless summer on some of the hardest multi-pitch climbs across the Alps.
Sagzahn Verschneidung, first repeat in Valsertal by Martin Feistl, David Bruder
18/11/2020 - Alpinism
Sagzahn Verschneidung, first repeat in Valsertal by Martin Feistl, David Bruder
On 11 November 2020 Martin Feistl and David Bruder made the first repeat and first free ascent of Sagzahnverschneidung, the difficult mixed route in the Valsertal in Austria established in 2018 by David Lama and Peter Mühlberger.
Leap of Faith freed on Poncione d'Alnasca by Matteo Della Bordella, Alessandro Zeni
17/11/2020 - Alpinism
Leap of Faith freed on Poncione d'Alnasca by Matteo Della Bordella, Alessandro Zeni
Italian climbers Matteo Della Bordella and Alessandro Zeni have made the first free ascent of Leap of Faith (8a+/b max, 7b+ obligatory, 500m), a big new multi-pitch up Poncione d'Alnasca in Switzerland.