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Piolet d'Or 2015: three expeditions selected
05/03/2015 - Events
Piolet d'Or 2015: three expeditions selected
Three expeditions have been selected for the Piolets d'Or 2015: the traverse of the Fitz Roy range by Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold,the ascent ofl Thamserku by the Russians Alexander Gukov and Alexei Lonchinskiy and the ascent of Hagshu by the Slovenians Ales Cesen, Luka Lindic and Marko Prezelj. During...
San Vito Lo Capo. Full stop and start over again.
17/02/2015 - Climbing
San Vito Lo Capo. Full stop and start over again.
We have received and gladly publish the press release of the representatives of the two associations (Rocce di Sicilia, the organisers of the of San Vito Climbing Festival and YMCA Climbing House, the shop and meeting place for climbers, bikers and trekkers) that operate together to promote the development of...
Tour Ronde, two probable new British mixed climbs in the Mont Blanc massif
10/02/2015 - Alpinism
Tour Ronde, two probable new British mixed climbs in the Mont Blanc massif
British mountain guide Matt Helliker has made what is believed to be the first ascent of two new mixed climbs on Tour Ronde in the Mont Blanc massif: Chancer (M6, 250m) climbed with Jon Bracey and Night Fever (M8, 250m), climbed with Nick Bullock.
Sappada abseil stations replaced on ice climbs
06/02/2015 - Alpinism
Sappada abseil stations replaced on ice climbs
At Sappada, Northern Italy, the local mountain guides have replaced the abseil belays of more than 50 ice falls. The report by Pierpaolo Pedrini
Cima Brenta - South Face ski descent by Alessandro Beber and Marco Maganzini
Cima Brenta - South Face ski descent by Alessandro Beber and Marco Maganzini
The video of the ski descent of the South Face of Cima Brenta, carried out by Alessandro Beber and Marco Maganzini in spring 2014.
Turkey ice climbing Festival at Erzurum. The report by Anna Torretta
03/02/2015 - Alpinism
Turkey ice climbing Festival at Erzurum. The report by Anna Torretta
From 21 to 25 January 2015, Turkey’s first-ever international ice climbing festival took place at Erzurum (Anatolia). Participants included Anna Torretta (a mountain guide from Courmayeur) and Spain’s Cecilia Buil who made the first ascents of two beautiful icefalls: Anatolia Pillar, WI6 100m, in Cevizli valley and Sugar couloir (seker...
Progetto Icaro at Santa Caterina, Italy
Progetto Icaro at Santa Caterina, Italy
The report about the first stage of Progetto Icaro 2014/2015 that took place at Santa Caterina, Alta Valtellina on Monday 22 December 2014.
Tom Ballard, Cima Grande di Lavaredo and Pizzo Badile in winter for his Starlight and Storm project
21/01/2015 - Alpinism
Tom Ballard, Cima Grande di Lavaredo and Pizzo Badile in winter for his Starlight and Storm project
British mountaineer Tom Ballard, as part of his project Starlight and Storm to climb the six great North Faces of the Alps in winter, has recently climbed the Comici - Dimai route on Cima Grande di Lavaredo in the Dolomites and the Cassin route up the NE Face of Pizzo...
First ski descents in the Dolomites by Vascellari, D'Alpaos and De Barba
First ski descents in the Dolomites by Vascellari, D'Alpaos and De Barba
Between February and May 2014, Italian skiers Francesco Vascellari, Davide D'Alpaos and Loris De Barba carried out a series of first ski descents to solve some old problems in the Dolomites. They concluded their run with a repeat of the East Face of the Matterhorn, first skied by Tone Valeruz...
Ice Climbing Ecrins, 25th meeting at Argentière - La Bessée
09/01/2015 - Events
Ice Climbing Ecrins, 25th meeting at Argentière - La Bessée
From 15 - 18 January 2015 Argentière - La Bessée (France) will host Ice Climbing Ecrins, the classic international ice climbing meeting that celebrates its XXV edition.
Scottish winter climbing begins
23/12/2014 - Alpinism
Scottish winter climbing begins
The winter climbing season in Scotland has begun with three noteworthy ascent: the first winter ascent of Boggle of Beinn Eighe by Martin Moran and Robin Thomas and the first repeats of Tomahawk Crack on Ben Nevis (Will Sim and Andy Inglis) and Culloden on Creag an Dubh Loch (Guy...
Cerro Torre, Italian climbing action in Patagonia
19/12/2014 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre, Italian climbing action in Patagonia
Currently there are numerous Italian teams climbing in Patagonia, in particular in the Chalten massif, where Cerro Torre was climbed via the Ragni route by Marcello Cominetti, Massimo Lucco, Francesco Salvaterra, Majori Marco, Marco Farina and François Cazzanelli. The route's first ascent this season was made in September by Ermanno...
Crag certification and classification, bolter responsibilities and training: the French example and Philipp Brass interview
19/12/2014 - Climbing
Crag certification and classification, bolter responsibilities and training: the French example and Philipp Brass interview
Interview with Philippe Brass, mountain guide and expert new routes, about crag certification and classification, the responsibilities new bolters have the the training they receive. By Maurizio Oviglia
Shampoo Dry, drytooling at Champorcher, Valle d'Aosta, Italy
28/11/2014 - Alpinism
Shampoo Dry, drytooling at Champorcher, Valle d'Aosta, Italy
Enrico Bonino introduces Shampoo Dry, the new drytooling crag above Champorcher, Valle d'Aosta, Italy
San Vito Lo Capo: the Stefan Rass climbing accident and the appeal for donations. By Elio Bonfanti
27/11/2014 - Climbing
San Vito Lo Capo: the Stefan Rass climbing accident and the appeal for donations. By Elio Bonfanti
On 16/11/2014 at San Vito Lo Capo, Italy, Stefan Rass from Austria had a terrible climbing accident and he is currently in induced coma at Salzburg. Published below is an appeal for donations for his young family as well as a short text by Elio Bonfanti who helped Rass immediately...
First Speedfly descent of Canalone Neri, Brenta Dolomites
07/11/2014 - Alpinism
First Speedfly descent of Canalone Neri, Brenta Dolomites
The report by Luca Tamburini who, together with Jacopo Pellizzari, made the first speedflying descent of Canalone Neri, Brenta Dolomites.