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Action Directe 9a climbed by Gabriele Moroni, too
18/04/2010 - Climbing
Action Directe 9a climbed by Gabriele Moroni, too
Gabriele Moroni and the first Italian ascent of Action Directe 9a, the route freed by Wolfgang Güllich in 1991 and which still today represents an important test for sport climbing.
Matterhorn South Face, new route by Marco and Hervé Barmasse
30/03/2010 - Alpinism
Matterhorn South Face, new route by Marco and Hervé Barmasse
On 13 March 2010 Marco and Hervé Barmasse established a new route up the South Face of the Matterhorn. Their 1220m line solves one of the "problems" up the massive "Becca" face, attempted by numerous climbers in the past. The...
Prinzip Hoffnung, second ascent by Alex Luger
29/03/2010 - Climbing
Prinzip Hoffnung, second ascent by Alex Luger
On 06/12/2009 Alex Luger from Austria carried out the first repeat of Prinzip Hoffnung, the trad route established by Beat Kammerlander at the Bürser Platte in Austria.
Civetta North West Face: first winter ascent of Captain Skyhook by Tondini and Baù
23/03/2010 - Alpinism
Civetta North West Face: first winter ascent of Captain Skyhook by Tondini and Baù
On 19 March 2010 Alessandro Baù and Nicola Tondini carried out the first winter ascent and third ascent overall of Captain Skyhook (500m + 380m pedestal, 7b+) on the Northwest Face of the Civetta, Dolomites.
La Piovra, new icefall on Monte Derbianco, Switzerland
04/03/2010 - Alpinism
La Piovra, new icefall on Monte Derbianco, Switzerland
On 13/02/2010 Nikita Uboldi, Ean Barelli and Andrea Cairoli carried out the first ascent of La Piovra (4. WI6- M7R A1), in the Prosito mountain range in Canton Ticino, Switzerland
Fiducia al sentiero, new route for Baù and Della Bordella in Mexico
03/03/2010 - Climbing
Fiducia al sentiero, new route for Baù and Della Bordella in Mexico
In January 2010 the Italians Alessandro Baù and Matteo Della Bordella carried out the first ascent of 'Fiducia al sentiero' (500m, 5.12c/7b+ max – 5.11d/7a obl.) on the South Face of Tatewari in the La Huasteca Natural Park, Monterrey, Mexico.
Claudio Corti, goodbye to the alpinist and man
04/02/2010 - Alpinism
Claudio Corti, goodbye to the alpinist and man
Italian alpinist Claudio Corti died during the night of 3 February at the age of 81 at his home in Lecco. He will be remembered as a member of the Gruppo Ragni della Grignetta but also as a man who...
Enrico Baistrocchi repeats Oniyx at Chironico
02/02/2010 - Climbing
Enrico Baistrocchi repeats Oniyx at Chironico
The strong Italian climber Enrico Baistrocchi has managed the first repeat of the boudlery Oniyx 8c, first ascended by Markus Bock at Chironico, Switzerland. Massimo Malpezzi has the story.
Centercourt repeated twice in the Gasteinertal, Austria
01/02/2010 - Alpinism
Centercourt repeated twice in the Gasteinertal, Austria
Centercourt, the new extreme testpiece first climbed by Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner at the start of Janauary, has been repeated twice, by the Slovenians Aljaz Anderle and Klemen Premrl and the Austrians Rudolf Hauser and Helmut Holleis.
Climbing stories in Val San Nicolò, Italy
24/12/2009 - Climbing
Climbing stories in Val San Nicolò, Italy
One day Heinz opened two new routes in Valle San Nicolò (Val di Fassa, Dolomites) and 22 years later he gave the route to Mario, who freed them. This is the story of "Alice e l'imperatore" and "Basic Instinct", told...
Lino Lacedelli goodbye
20/11/2009 - Alpinism
Lino Lacedelli goodbye
Lino Lacedelli, 84, passed away in Cortina, Italy this morning. In 1954 the member of the famous Scoiattoli mountaineering club became the first person to reach the summit of K2, together with Achille Compagnoni.
Wenden: Andreas and Neumärker climb Zahir+ 8c
30/10/2009 - Climbing
Wenden: Andreas and Neumärker climb Zahir+ 8c
Jörg Andreas and Felix Neumärker from Germany carried out the first repeat of Zahir on the Wendenstöcke in the Bernese Oberland, Switzerland, extending a pitch and upgrading it to 8c.
Welcome to the club, a 9a by Luca 'Canon' Zardini at Cortina
26/10/2009 - Climbing
Welcome to the club, a 9a by Luca 'Canon' Zardini at Cortina
On 03/10/2009 Luca Zardini made the frst ascent of "Welcome to the club" at the Campo boulders at Cortina d'Ampezzo which he believes is 9a.
Welcome to the club, a 9a by Luca 'Canon' Zardini at Cortina
23/10/2009 - Climbing
Welcome to the club, a 9a by Luca 'Canon' Zardini at Cortina
On 03/10/2009 Luca Zardini made the frst ascent of "Welcome to the club" at the Campo boulders at Cortina d'Ampezzo which he believes is 9a.
Naranjo de Bulnes, Quinto Imperio, first repeat by Faria and Nogueira
08/10/2009 - Climbing
Naranjo de Bulnes, Quinto Imperio, first repeat by Faria and Nogueira
On 26/27/08/2009 Leopoldo Faria and Pedro Nogueira carried out the first repeat of Quinto Imperio (550m 8b) on the Naranjo de Bulnes, Picos de Europa, Spain.
Adam Ondra nets Fugu 9a at the Schleierwasserfall, Austria
24/09/2009 - Climbing
Adam Ondra nets Fugu 9a at the Schleierwasserfall, Austria
Interview with Adam Ondra from the Czech Republic who on 20/09/2009 made the first ascent of an old Alexander Huber project, Fugu 9a at the Schleierwasserfall in Tyrol, Austria.

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