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Alpinism and climbing in 2012 - part 1
02/01/2013 - Alpinism
Alpinism and climbing in 2012 - part 1
Part one of what happend, in alpinism and in climbing, in 2012. A summary, for obvious reason incomplete, of the climbs, the most beautiful achievements and also the most painful moments in 2012. In the hope that this résumé serves as a reminder and as a source on inspiration for...
Dôme des Écrins, the search continues for the three missing Italian alpinists
29/11/2012 - Alpinism
Dôme des Écrins, the search continues for the three missing Italian alpinists
The Briançon Gendarmerie is continuing its search for Francesco Cantù, Damiano Barabino and Luca Gaggianese, the three Italian alpinists who have been missing for 4 days in the Écrins massif (Dauphiné Alps, France).
Matterhorn, Via Casarotto - Grassi on Pic Tyndall climbed by Farina, Cazzanelli and Ferraris
26/11/2012 - Alpinism
Matterhorn, Via Casarotto - Grassi on Pic Tyndall climbed by Farina, Cazzanelli and Ferraris
On 17-18/11/2012 Marco Farina, François Cazzanelli and Roby Ferraris made a fast and great repeat of the route first ascended by Renato Casarotto and Gian Carlo Grassi in 1983 up the south face of the Matterhorn which exits onto Pic Tyndall (ED / 1300mt ). This is likely to be...
Großer Falkenstein, new multi-pitch climb in Austria
07/11/2012 - Climbing
Großer Falkenstein, new multi-pitch climb in Austria
Vittorio Messini and Isidor Poppeller have made the first ascent of Die Ritter der Kokosnuss up Großer Falkenstein, Austria.
Roland Hemetzberger frees Karlspitze Südwand
23/10/2012 - Climbing
Roland Hemetzberger frees Karlspitze Südwand
On 22/10/12 Roland Hemetzberger made the first free ascent of Südwand (150m, 10-) up Karlspitze, Wilder Kaiser, Austria.
Andreas Fransson and his extreme skiing in Patagonia
11/10/2012 - Interviews
Andreas Fransson and his extreme skiing in Patagonia
Interview with Sweden's Andreas Fransson who on 19/09/2012 made the first ski descent of the Whillans ramp on Aguja Poincenot, Patagonia.
Il colpo di coda, new Presolana rock climb by Codazzi and Natali
11/10/2012 - Alpinism
Il colpo di coda, new Presolana rock climb by Codazzi and Natali
On 22/09/2012 Stefano Codazzi and Daniele Natali made the first ascent of Il colpo di coda (7a+, 160m) up the south face of Presolana, Italy. The report by Natali who made the first free ascent of the line together with Carlo Cortinovis on 06/10/2012.
A piede libero, new Presolana rock climb by Angeloni and Calegari
08/10/2012 - Alpinism
A piede libero, new Presolana rock climb by Angeloni and Calegari
On 16 September Giangi Angeloni and Daniele Calegari made the first free ascent of A piede libero (7c+, 7a obl., 280m), the new route they established between 2009 and 2012 up Corna delle Quattro Matte (Presolana massif), Italy.
Via dei 6 Pilastri, new route on the Marmolada by Giordani, Ferrari and Paoletto
05/10/2012 - Alpinism
Via dei 6 Pilastri, new route on the Marmolada by Giordani, Ferrari and Paoletto
Last summer Maurizio Giordani, Luciano Ferrari and Nancy Paoletto made the first ascent of Via dei 6 Pilastri (940m, 6b+) up the south face of Piz dell'Anticima Serauta (Marmolada, Dolomites)
Aguja Poincenot, Andreas Fransson skis the Whillans ramp
Aguja Poincenot, Andreas Fransson skis the Whillans ramp
On 19/09/2012 Andreas Fransson made the first ski descent of the Whillans ramp on Aguja Poincenot, Patagonia.
New difficult rock climbs in Greenland
20/09/2012 - Climbing
New difficult rock climbs in Greenland
This summer Tomas Brt (Czech Republic), Vlado Linek and Jan Smolen (Slovakia) visited Greenland’s Tasermiut Fjord where they established two new routes, Turbo (VIII+, A2,1450m) on the south face of Ketil and Keep Panic, Please (VIII, 1270m)  up the NW Face of  the N summit of Ulamertorsuaq.
Out of Reality, Kopold and Sabovcik new route attempt on Great Trango Towe
14/09/2012 - Alpinism
Out of Reality, Kopold and Sabovcik new route attempt on Great Trango Towe
This August the Slovak climbers Dodo Kopold and Michal Sabovcik forged a new line up the NW Face of Great Trango Tower (6286m), Karakorum. Their "Out of Reality" ends on the shoulder circa 400m below the summit.
Alien, new route on Presolana by Codazzi and Natali
11/09/2012 - Climbing
Alien, new route on Presolana by Codazzi and Natali
On 11/08/2012 Stefano Codazzi and Daniele Natali made the first ascent Alien (7a+, 150m), a new climb up the south face of Presolana Centrale.
Ogre South Face first ascent by Hayden Kennedy and Kyle Dempster
06/09/2012 - Alpinism
Ogre south face first ascent by Hayden Kennedy and Kyle Dempster
American alpinists Hayden Kennedy and Kyle Dempster have made the third ascent of Ogre (Baintha Brakk) 7,285m in Karakorum via a new route up the south face.
 Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr free L'ultimo dei paracadutisti on Marmolada
06/09/2012 - Alpinism
Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr free L'ultimo dei paracadutisti on Marmolada
Austrian climbers Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr have made the first free ascent of L'ultimo dei paracadutisti (8b+, 750m), the superb route established by Mariano Frizzera, Paolo Leoni and Graziano Maffei up the south face of the Marmolada, Dolomites.
Pilastro Parmenide, new route up Cima dell'Auta
29/08/2012 - Alpinism
Pilastro Parmenide, new route up Cima dell'Auta
On 1 -2/08/2012 Italian climbers Giorgio Travaglia and Stefano Valsecchi made the first ascent of Pilastro Parmenide (500m VI + A3+ + 100m of grade II) up the south face of Cima dell'Auta orientale (Marmolada, Dolomites). The route was started by Travaglia and others in 2010.

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