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Ueli Steck's dream
03/05/2017 - Interviews
Ueli Steck's dream
We have republished an interview with Ueli Steck we carried out in February 2006 at the Piolet d’Or award, for which the Swiss alpinist had been nominated for his solo enchainment of Cholatse, Tawoche and Ama Dablam.
Ueli Steck, the man and mountaineer
01/05/2017 - Alpinism
Ueli Steck, the man and mountaineer
In memory of Ueli Steck, the great Swiss mountaineer who died yesterday on Nuptse close to Everest.
Ueli Steck dies in Everest accident
30/04/2017 - Alpinism
Ueli Steck dies in Everest accident
Swiss alpinist Ueli Steck has died near Mount Everest. The body of the 40-year-old ace mountaineer was found close to Camp 1 on the nearby Nuptse Face, where he was acclimatising for one of the most incredible mountaineering projects in the Himalaya: the Everest - Lhotse traverse.
Hervé Barmasse, Shisha Pangma and the lure of unpredictable mountaineering
24/04/2017 - Alpinism
Hervé Barmasse, Shisha Pangma and the lure of unpredictable mountaineering
Interview with Hervé Barmasse, the Italian alpinist and Matterhorn mountain guide who together with Germany’s David Göttler will attempt a new route up the South Face of Shisha Pangma (8027m) in Tibet. Should things go according to plan this would be Barmasse’s first 8000er.
Ueli Steck and the great Everest - Lhotse traverse / Pioneering mountaineering
07/04/2017 - Interviews
Ueli Steck and the great Everest - Lhotse traverse / Pioneering mountaineering
Interview with Swiss alpinist Ueli Steck on the eve of departure for Nepal where he will attempt to complete one of the most amitious projects in Himalayan mountaineering: the coveted first Everest - Lhotse traverse.
Peter Habeler, 74, climbs Eiger North Face again with David Lama
06/04/2017 - Alpinism
Peter Habeler, 74, climbs Eiger North Face again with David Lama
Timeless mountaineering: aged 74 Peter Habeler, one of the world’s greatest mountaineers who in 1978 made the first ascent of Everest without supplementary oxygen together with Reinhold Messner, has now climbed the North Face of the Eiger once again. In 1974 Habeler had climbed the mountain in record time with...
Petit Dru, Les Droites & Grandes Jorasses, class mountaineering in the Mont Blanc massif
04/04/2017 - Alpinism
Petit Dru, Les Droites & Grandes Jorasses, class mountaineering in the Mont Blanc massif
Good conditions in the Mont Blanc massif have enabled the French Groupe Militaire de haute montagne climbers to make three interesting repeats on Rhem-Vimal up Les Droites, Rolling Stones on Grandes Jorasses and Voie des guides on Petit Dru.
Alex Txikon ends Everest winter expedition
08/03/2017 - Alpinism
Alex Txikon ends Everest winter expedition
Basque mountaineer Alex Txikon has abandoned his attempt at climbing Everest in winter after retreating from Camp 2 (6400m) due to high winds.
Climbing in Patagonia: Pou brothers add Aguja Guillaumet ascent
01/03/2017 - Alpinism
Climbing in Patagonia: Pou brothers add Aguja Guillaumet ascent
Spanish mountaineers Iker Pou and Eneko Pou have established a new mixed climb up the East Face of Aguja Guillaumet in Patagonia. Called 'Aupa 40', the 525m outing breaches difficulties up to 5+, M7 85˚.
Passion, alpinism and risks
17/02/2017 - Alpinism
Passion, alpinism and risks
A thought for Mauro Franceschini, Antonella Gallo, Antonella Gerini and Fabrizio Recchia who yesterday, Thursday 16/02/17, lost their lives when the icefall Bonne année collapsed in Valle di Gressoney, Valle d’Aosta, Italy.
Everest in winter / First attempt failed. Alex Txikon & Co return to Base Camp
12/02/2017 - Alpinism
Everest in winter / First attempt failed. Alex Txikon & Co return to Base Camp
14/02/2017: The mountaineers attempting to climb Everest in winter without supplementary oxygen have returned to Base Camp. Alex Txikon, Nurbu Sherpa and Cheppal Sherpa had reached South Col at 7950m but were forced to descend due to high winds. 12/02/2017: The Everest winter expedition without supplementary oxygen led by Alex...
Everest in winter / Alex Txikon & Co start summit bid
10/02/2017 - Alpinism
Everest in winter / Alex Txikon & Co start summit bid
The Spanish expedition led by Basque mountaineer Alex Txikon to climb Everest in winter and without supplementary oxygen has begun in earnest. A weather window is forecast for 14 to 18 February 2017.
Romano Benet and Tine Cuder control Hysteria, a new icefall in Val Raccolana
01/02/2017 - Alpinism
Romano Benet and Tine Cuder control Hysteria, a new icefall in Val Raccolana
Winter mountaineering: first ascent video and interview with Romano Benet who, with Slovenia's Tine Cuder, made the first ascent of the new icefall Hysteria at Rio Vandul in Val Raccolana (Italy).
Spiro Dalla Porta Xydias, goodbye to the alpinist who climbed with his soul
21/01/2017 - Alpinism
Spiro Dalla Porta Xydias, goodbye to the alpinist who climbed with his soul
On Wednesday evening Spiro Dalla Porta Xydias passed away in Trieste. The acclaimed Italian alpinist, writer and theater director was an academic of the Italian Alpine Club and, for three decades, president of GISM, the Italian Group of Mountain Writers. With him Italian mountaineering, and not only, looses a great...
Presolana: Natali and Panseri pull off important first winter ascent in Bergamasque Prealps
16/01/2017 - Alpinism
Presolana: Natali and Panseri pull off important first winter ascent in Bergamasque Prealps
Alpinism: on 29 and 30 December 2016 Daniele Natali and Maurizio Panseri made the first winter ascent of 12 anni di Albani, the route up the North Face of Presolana, Italy, established in 1999 by Domenico Berlinghieri, Stefano Magri and Roby Piantoni.
Piz Badile Cassin route climbed in winter by Luca Godenzi and Carlo Micheli
13/01/2017 - Alpinism
Piz Badile Cassin route climbed in winter by Luca Godenzi and Carlo Micheli
Alpinism: Luca Godenzi reports about a rare winter ascent of the famous Cassin route on the NE Face of Badile, carried out from 30 to 31 December 2016 with Carlo Micheli.