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Phungi Peak, big Himalayan first ascent by Koshelenko and Lonchinskii
30/11/2017 - Alpinism
Phungi Peak, big Himalayan first ascent by Koshelenko and Lonchinskii
On 28 October 2017 Russian mountaineers Yury Koshelenko and Aleksei Lonchinskii completed the first ascent of Phungi Peak (6538 m) in the Nepalese Himalaya. Climbing in alpine style, the two required five days to forge their route up the mountain’s...
Larkya Main, Georgians claim first ascent in Himalaya
17/11/2017 - Alpinism
Larkya Main, Georgians claim first ascent in Himalaya
Georgian mountaineers Giorgi Tepnadze, Bakar Gelashvili and Archil Badriashvili have established a new route up the SE Face of Larkya Main. It is also the first ascent of this 6425m high mountain in the Himalaya.
French climb new route up Pangbuk North in Nepal
14/11/2017 - Alpinism
French climb new route up Pangbuk North in Nepal
Mountaineering in the Himalayas: in the Lunag Massif (Khumbu region) the French mountaineers Max Bonniot and Pierre Sancier have climbed Tolérance Zero, a new 1100m route described as elegant, logical and technical up the North Face of Pangbuk North (6589...
Mt. Ushba: Slovakians score first ski descent in Georgian Caucasus
Mt. Ushba: Slovakians score first ski descent in Georgian Caucasus
Last May and June Slovakian alpinists Miroslav Peťo and Maroš Červienka carried out a series of difficult ski descents in the Caucasus massif in Georgia: the SW Ridge of Tetnuldi (4858 m), the SE couloir of Chatyn Tau (4412 m)...
Shispare NE Face, difficult first ascent in Karakorum by Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima
02/11/2017 - Alpinism
Shispare NE Face, difficult first ascent in Karakorum by Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima
On 22 August 2017 Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima completed a new route up the NE Face of Shispare (7611m), Karakorum, Pakistan. Climbing alpine style for seven days, the Japanese mountaineers encountered difficulties up to M6 / WI 5.
Farewell Fred Beckey, American climbing legend
31/10/2017 - Alpinism
Farewell Fred Beckey, American climbing legend
Legendary American climber Fred Beckey has passed away aged 94.
Caroline Face, huge first descent on Mount Aoraki in New Zealand by Briggs, Grant and Mosetti
Caroline Face, huge first descent on Mount Aoraki in New Zealand by Briggs, Grant and Mosetti
On 27 October the Italian mountaineer Enrico Mosetti and the Britons Ben Briggs and Tom Grant made the first ski descent of the Caroline Face, the difficult and dangerous SE Face of Mount Aoraki / Mount Cook (3724m) in New...
Mount Edgar summit and new Italian West Face climb in China
28/10/2017 - Alpinism
Mount Edgar summit and new Italian West Face climb in China
An Italian expedition comprised of François Cazzanelli, Francesco Ratti, Emrik Favre, Tomas Franchini, Matteo Faletti and Fabrizio Dellai has successfully climbed Mount Edgar (6618m) in the Sichuan region of China. Climbing in two teams, they repeated the original Korean route...
Nuptse South Face, extraordinary new French route climbed by Degoulet, Guigonne, Millerioux
21/10/2017 - Alpinism
Nuptse South Face, extraordinary new French route climbed by Degoulet, Guigonne, Millerioux
French alpinists Hélias Millerioux, Frédéric Degoulet and Niçois Benjamin Guigonnet have made an alpine style ascent of a new route up the South Face of Nuptse, Nepal Himalaya
Alix von Melle and Luis Stitzinger summit Manaslu
06/10/2017 - Alpinism
Alix von Melle and Luis Stitzinger summit Manaslu
On 30 September the German mountaineers Alix von Melle and Luis Stitzinger reached the summit of Manaslu, their seventh 8000er climbing without the use of supplementary oxygen.
Nanga Parbat summit success for Mingma Gyalje Sherpa and seven other mountaineers
05/10/2017 - Alpinism
Nanga Parbat summit success for Mingma Gyalje Sherpa and seven other mountaineers
On 02/10/2017 at 12:40 Sherpa Mingma Gyalje reached the summit of Nanga Parbat (8126 meters, Karakorum, Pakistan). The Sherpa summited with 7 other mountaineers, including Pakistan’s Muhammad Ali Sadpara.
Slovaks climb new route up Pik Alexander Blok in Pamir Alay, Kyrgyzstan
02/10/2017 - Alpinism
Slovaks climb new route up Pik Alexander Blok in Pamir Alay, Kyrgyzstan
Mountaineering in the Pamir Alay, Kyrgyzstan: in the Ak-Su region the Slovak mountaineers Martin Grajciar, Ondrej Huserka, Jozef Kristoffy and Vladimir Linek spent seven weeks from July 27th to September 10th 2017 making the first ascent of 'Summer Bouquet', a...
Beat Kammerlander frees Kampfzone, a rare climbing gem in the Rätikon
15/09/2017 - Climbing
Beat Kammerlander frees Kampfzone, a rare climbing gem in the Rätikon
Interview with Austrian climber Beat Kammerlander after the first free ascent of his alpine sports climb Kampfzone (8c) in the Rätikon massif.
Pizzo Cengalo massive rockfall video
24/08/2017 - Environment
Pizzo Cengalo massive rockfall video
The video of the massive rockfall that occurred on 23 August 2017 on the NE Face of Pizzo Cengalo (3396 m) in Val Bregaglia, Switzerland.
Riccarda de Eccher: Montagna. The Dolomites at the Halsey Institute of Contemporary Art, USA
23/08/2017 - Book-press
Riccarda de Eccher: Montagna. The Dolomites at the Halsey Institute of Contemporary Art, USA
From 25 August to 7 October 2017 the Halsey Institute of Contemporary Art di Charleston, South Carolina (USA) will exhibit the works of alpinist and painter Riccarda de Eccher. 12 new watercolours dedicated to the Dolomites, ‘her' mountains, will be...
Via Napoleone discovered in Val Torrone, Val Masino
21/08/2017 - Alpinism
Via Napoleone discovered in Val Torrone, Val Masino
Giovanni Giarletta reports about the first ascent of Via Napoleone, a new climb in remote Val Torrone high above Val Masino, initiated by Manuele Panzeri and Pietro Tentori about nine years ago and completed this August.