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Arco Rock Legends and the 2013 nominations
06/08/2013 - Events
Arco Rock Legends and the 2013 nominations
The nominations for the VIII edition of Arco Rock Legends that will take place on Friday 6 September 2013 during the Rock Master Festival to assign both the Salewa Rock Award and the La Sportiva Competition Award. In the running for the sport climbing Oscars are Steve McClure, Alexander Megos,...
Beauty and the Beast, first ascent on Alaska's Gargoyle
10/07/2013 - Alpinism
Beauty and the Beast, first ascent on Alaska's Gargoyle
In Alaska's Ruth Gorge the Austrians Alex Bluemel and Gerry Fiegl have made the first ascent of Beauty and the Beast (7a+ 650m A3) on the Gargoyle. Shortly afterwards the two Tyrolean mountaineers made the first repeat of the long Tooth Traverse. Gerry Fiegl provides the report.
L'uovo di Colombo, new route on Monte Cimo
02/07/2013 - Climbing
L'uovo di Colombo, new route on Monte Cimo
Rolando Larcher recounts his first ascent, carried out in mid-June together with Herman Zanetti of L'uovo di Colombo up Monte Cimo in Val d'Adige. A 200m route that breaches the obvious large roofs with two different options: hard 7c+ and soft 7a+.
Nalle Hukkataival frees The Understanding 8C at Magic Wood
20/06/2013 - Climbing
Nalle Hukkataival frees The Understanding 8C at Magic Wood
At Magic Wood in Switzerland Nalle Hukkataival has made the first ascent of The Understanding 8C. Furthermore, he has made the first repeat of the Daniel Woods problem La Force Tranquille 8C.
Jeef, the route and the beauty of climbing in Bavella, Corsica
13/06/2013 - Climbing
Jeef, the route and the beauty of climbing in Bavella, Corsica
In praise of climbing and nature's beauty. This is Jeef, the route first ascended in 1992 by the French brothers François & Arnaud Petit on Punta U Corbu in Bavella (Corsica). A small masterpiece, examined by Maurizio Oviglia and Arnaud Petit.
Long Hope Route first repeat by James McHaffie and Ben Bransby
03/06/2013 - Climbing
Long Hope Route first repeat by James McHaffie and Ben Bransby
James McHaffie and Ben Bransby have made the first repeat of Long Hope Route, St John's Head, Hoy, Orkneys, Scotland.
Pete Whittaker frees Baron Greenback at Wimberry
16/05/2013 - Climbing
Pete Whittaker frees Baron Greenback at Wimberry
On 4 May Pete Whittaker made the first ascent of Baron Greenback ta the gritstone outcrop Wimberry in England, while Tom Randall made the first repeat of Appointment with Death and Nathan Lee repeated Order of the Phoenix.
Monte Forato, NNE Face ski descent in Julian Alps
Monte Forato, NNE Face ski descent in Julian Alps
Using the recent first repeat of the NNE Face of Monte Forato, here is the first descent story by Slovenia's Marko Kern, followed by a report by Marco Milanese, his descent carried out on 7 April together with Enrico Mosetti and Andrea Fusari. Until 2011, this face was regarded as...
James Pearson & Caroline Ciavaldini, hard trad ascents at Cadarese and Balmanolesca
30/04/2013 - Climbing
James Pearson & Caroline Ciavaldini, hard trad ascents at Cadarese and Balmanolesca
At Balmanolesca in NW Italy James Pearson made the first repeat, and first trad ascent, of A Denti Stretti 8b+, while at nearby Cadarese Caroline Ciavaldini made a trad ascent of Grazie Rickie 8a+ .
Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey: 29 years on the first repeat of the Never Never Face
Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey: 29 years on the first repeat of the Never Never Face
On 23/04/2013 Francesco Civra Dano and Luca Rolli (skis), Julien Herry and Davide Capozzi (snowboard) made the first repeat of the East Face of Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey in the Mont Blanc massif. The famous "face that doesn't exist", first skied on 18 June 1984 by Stefano de Benedetti. Capozzi...
Michele Caminati dodges rain and snow in search of sun on England's gritstone
16/04/2013 - Climbing
Michele Caminati dodges rain and snow in search of sun on England's gritstone
The report by Michele Caminati about yet another trip to England to climb some of the famous gritstone trad routes and boulder problems.
L'Onda di Hokusai, the great new route up Molignon di Dentro in the Dolomites by Angelo and Tonelli
02/04/2013 - Alpinism
L'Onda di Hokusai, the great new route up Molignon di Dentro in the Dolomites by Angelo and Tonelli
Andreas Tonelli reports about L'Onda di Hokusai (750m, WI5+, 60°, M3), the new route he forged together with Philipp Angelo up the NE Face of Molignon di Dentro, Rosengarten, Dolomites.
Chris Sharma, the La Dura Dura interview
26/03/2013 - Interviews
Chris Sharma, the La Dura Dura interview
Interview with American climber Chris Sharma after his repeat of La Dura Dura 9b+ at Oliana, Spain.
Chris Sharma repeats La Dura Dura at Oliana
24/03/2013 - Climbing
Chris Sharma repeats La Dura Dura at Oliana
American climber Chris Sharma has made the first repeat of La Dura Dura 9b+ at Oliana, Spain.
Sagwand first winter ascent by Auer, Lama and Ortner
20/03/2013 - Alpinism
Sagwand first winter ascent by Auer, Lama and Ortner
On 16 and 17 March 2013 the highly experienced Austrian alpinists Hansjörg Auer, David Lama and Peter Ortner made the first winter ascent of the Sagwand via the route Schiefer Riss first climbed by Mathias Rebitsch and Roland Berger in 1947.
Il Maratoneta, third repeat by Ivan Lisica-Lija and a little history about this famous Manolo climb
31/01/2013 - Climbing
Il Maratoneta, third repeat by Ivan Lisica-Lija and a little history about this famous Manolo climb
On 27/01/2013 Croatian climber Ivan Lisica-Lija made the third repeat of Il Maratoneta, the legendary route first climbed by Maurizio "Manolo" Zanolla at Paklenica (Croatia).

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