Fisioterapia d'urto, new climb in the Brenta Dolomites by Larcher, Giupponi and Sartori

FISIOTERAPIA D'URTO by Luca Giupponi

Fisioterapia d'urto (350m, 7c+/8a max,obligaotry 7b) the new route put up by Rolando Larcher, Luca Giupponi and Nicola Sartori on the North Face of Cima Dagnola (2195m, Brenta Dolomites) and freed in August by Larcher, Giupponi and Herman Zanetti. The report by Luca Giupponi.

It's 350 meters high. Traces a line up the north face of Cima Dagnola in the Brenta Dolomites, a peak that is both "wild" and at the same time relatively easy to get to. And it's a great alternative for the warmer months of the year. We're taking about the latest new route climbed by the expert trio Rolando Larcher, Luca Giupponi and Nicola Sartori. 10 pitches, maximum 7c+/8a with 7b obligatory difficulty, protected by a mix of trad gear and (distant) bolts. Knowing how to move on this sort of terrain is essential, and it comes as no surprise that Giupponi stated "To make the first ascent we need to dig deep and use all our know-how and experience." The route was put up over three days in September 2011 and completed on 24 July, 2013 with the first redpoint by Larcher, Giupponi and Herman Zanetti. The first repeat was carried out shortly afterwards by Manuel Bontempelli and Silvestro Franchini. Which just goes to show that this "shock therapy" has all the hallmarks to become a classic modern testpiece.

FISIOTERAPIA D'URTO by Luca Giupponi

September 2011, I'm searching for a rock face close to home, to climb a new route and round off the summer in style. My partner Rolando (Larcher ed) has injured his shoulder and as a result he's spending all his time walking around in the mountains, eyes pinned upwards. One day we get in touch and he tells me he's seen something interesting. I know the face he's talking about, I've often marveled at it while climbing at Cavedago in winter. We organise things quickly, Rolando speeds up his physiotherapy and we head off, fully loaded, to Cima Dagnola.

From below the wall looks nothing special, no great overhang, no obvious line, but nevertheless we choose a start and the games begin! I climb up a rounded corner, the rock is smooth and black, typical of these north faces, everything feels damn elusive and precarious! Slowly but surely I work my way into this line, hands and feet begin to feel more at one with the rock.

Rolando's injured shoulder seems to hold up and we allow ourselves to be led upwards by the holds. The higher we get the more fun it becomes. Each pitch is special and the climbing in anything but obvious. To make the first ascent we need to dig deep and use all our know-how and experience. One day we're even joined by our partner in crime Nicola Sartori openings. This is just his style of technical climbing and he too is an aficionado of the hidden corners of the Brenta Dolomites.

Unfortunately it's already the end of September, the rains come and the north face no longer manages to dry out. We've almost reached the top, but now we've got to pack our backs and go.

Summer 2012 is spent climbing in Turkey and, once back, autumn surprises us again, leaving business unfinished once again. That winter I'm always there, at Cavedago, contemplating the snowy face.

Summer 2013 is finally the right one, we quickly climb the pitches we'd established previously. We get ready to forge up new ground when a storm surprises us! We'd originally thought we'd finish things off quickly and descend in the light of day. Luckily we are huddled in a small niche so we create a sort of cushion with our ropes and sit down optimistically, in the hope that it'll stop raining and dry out. We know that the route has almost completed and that the hard sections have already been climbed, so we eat our food and enjoy the view and privilege of being up there, two friends, 300 metres off the deck, in a hole in the wall sheltered from the rain.

After 3 hours the rain seems to stop, luckily it's Rolando's turn, he sets off up the soaking wet pitch. After 50 meters and some frightening moments on the slippery face we reach the end of the difficulties. We come across the tracks of chamois... good, the route can end here, to reach the summit from here is an easy scramble.

Dusk falls, we savour the moment, I look towards my home, the houses in Val di Non begin to turn on their lights. We turn on our headtorches and begin the abseils.

Once again luck has been on our side, a handful of holds has allowed us to climb directly upwards, choosing a logical line within difficult climbing. We're also satisfied with how we've managed to climb the route, by using a mix of trad gear and bolts. As always what now needs to be done is the first redpoint, to enjoy the entire route in a single push. And for this we're joined by our friend Herman Zanetti, always keen on doing something new and to tell a joke or two! Once again we finish climbing late, but it's worth it, all pitches are climbed free first go and we are overcome by the pleasant feeling of having completed project, of having started it, constructed it and then completed it. To those who wish to repeat the route, enjoy!

By the way: this winter I'll be able to stare at this face from Cavedago, look back on this great adventure and dream about a new one.


TOPO: Fisioterapia d'urto, Cima Dagnola, Brenta Dolomites