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Cochamó valley in Chile: Vlad Capusan, Teofil Vlad soar up El ultimo Vuelo del Condor
06/02/2020 - Alpinism
Cochamó valley in Chile: Vlad Capusan, Teofil Vlad soar up El ultimo Vuelo del Condor
In Valle Cochamo in Chile Romanian mountaineers Vlad Capusan and Teofil Vlad have made the first ascent of El ultimo Vuelo del Condor. The new multi-pitch rock climb is dedicated to Zsolt Torok who perished in August 2019.
Madre Tierra on Rocchetta Alta di Bosconero in Zoldo Dolomites by Santiago Padrós, Diego Toigo
05/02/2020 - Alpinism
Madre Tierra on Rocchetta Alta di Bosconero in Zoldo Dolomites by Santiago Padrós, Diego Toigo
Spanish mountain guide Santiago Padrós reports about a big new winter climb up Rocchetta Alta di Bosconero (2412m) in the Zoldo Dolomites, established on 30/01/2020 with Diego Toigo. The mixed outing is called Madre Tierra and was completed after a failed first attempt with Giovanni Andriano and Ruggero Arena.
Cerro Piergiorgio in Patagonia, new east face climb by Alessandro Bau, Giovanni Zaccaria
02/02/2020 - Alpinism
Cerro Piergiorgio in Patagonia, new east face climb by Alessandro Bau, Giovanni Zaccaria
On the east face of Cerro Piergiorgio in Patagonia Italian mountain guides Alessandro Baù and Giovanni Zaccaria have made the first ascent of Scrumble de manzana.
Iker Pou celebrates 20 years of climbing 9a
29/01/2020 - Climbing
Iker Pou celebrates 20 years of climbing 9a
42-year-old Basque climber Iker Pou has made the first ascent of La Nave de los Locos on the island of Mallorca in Spain. With this ascent he celebrates 20 years of 9a climbing, after sending his first in 2000, Action Directe freed by Wolfgang Güllich in the Frankenjura, Germany.
Climbing in Sudan, new routes in Taka mountains above Kassala
25/01/2020 - Alpinism
Climbing in Sudan, new routes in Taka mountains above Kassala
Chris Warner from Australia reports about a rock climbing trip to Kassala in western Sudan with Jonny Baker which resulted in a handful of new routes in the Taka mountains,
Matterhorn Grandes Murailles winter enchainment completed by François Cazzanelli, Francesco Ratti
24/01/2020 - Alpinism
Matterhorn Grandes Murailles winter enchainment completed by François Cazzanelli, Francesco Ratti
After 4 days and 40 hours of climbing, the two Italian mountain guides François Cazzanelli and Francesco Ratti completed the first winter enchainment of the Furggen chain, Matterhorn, Grandes Murailles chain and Petites Murailles chain. A 'Himalayan ridge above home.'
Paul Bonhomme scores steep ski descent down Punta Patrì in Gran Paradiso massif
Paul Bonhomme scores steep ski descent down Punta Patrì in Gran Paradiso massif
French mountain guide Paul Bonhomme has skied Linea senza frontiere, a new steep ski descent down the south face of Punta Patrì in the Gran Paradiso massif. Bonhomme, who ascended the same line he later skied, reports.
In Rätikon Fabian Buhl finally frees demanding Déjà multi-pitch
22/01/2020 - Alpinism
In Rätikon Fabian Buhl finally frees demanding Déjà multi-pitch
In the Rätikon massif in Switzerland German mountaineer Fabian Buhl has completed the first free ascent of Déjà, a 400m multi-pitch alpine rock climb graded 8c+.
New Brenta Dolomites steep ski descent down Monte Fibion
New Brenta Dolomites steep ski descent down Monte Fibion
On 05/12/2019 Martin Giovanazzi and Vincenzo Mascaro made what is likely to be the first ski descent down the NE Face of Monte Fibion ​​in the Brenta Dolomites. They have called the gully they skied Canale del Boomerang.
Rapunzel on Sass de la Crusc, new Dolomites mixed climb by Simon Messner and Manuel Baumgartner
16/01/2020 - Alpinism
Rapunzel on Sass de la Crusc, new Dolomites mixed climb by Simon Messner and Manuel Baumgartner
On Sass de la Crusc / Heiligkreuzkofel in the Dolomites, the South Tyrolean mountaineers Simon Messner and Manuel Baumgartner have made the first ascent of Rapunzel, a new ice and mixed climb graded WI6+ M7+.
Pandora on Pordoi, Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messin add huge mixed climb to the Dolomites
14/01/2020 - Alpinism
Pandora on Pordoi, Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messin add huge mixed climb to the Dolomites
From 16 to 17 December 2019, after a day of reconnaissance, alpinists Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini established Pandora (600m, V, M5, A0, WI6) up the west face of Pordoi (Dolomites) . This ice and mixed climb links via Abram with via Niagara and tackles the huge hanging icefall that...
Thomas Huber unlocks his Stone Age up Untersberg in Berchtesgaden Alps
04/01/2020 - Alpinism
Thomas Huber unlocks his Stone Age up Untersberg in Berchtesgaden Alps
At the start of November 2019 German alpinist Thomas Huber frees his multi-pitch climb Stone Age (8b+) on Untersberg in Berchtesgaden Alps, Germany.
Valnontey - Cogne ice climbing ban to protect Bearded Vulture
03/01/2020 - Alpinism
Valnontey - Cogne ice climbing ban to protect Bearded Vulture
A temporary ice climbing ban has been enacted in Valnontey (Cogne, Italy) to protect nesting bearded vulture. The Gran Paradiso National Park commission and the Cogne mountain guides have produced a Decalogue aimed at protecting the local wildlife.
The Second Chance of Isamer Bilog to ride A New Wave
24/12/2019 - Climbing
The Second Chance of Isamer Bilog to ride A New Wave
The short film Second chance, which documents Isamer Bilog's disastrous attempt to climb a highball boulder problem, his accident, rescue and miraculous recovery. The boulder has been called A New Wave.
Natascha Knecht, Marcel Schenk uncover new mixed climb deep in Switzerland's Val Bregaglia
18/12/2019 - Alpinism
Natascha Knecht, Marcel Schenk uncover new mixed climb deep in Switzerland's Val Bregaglia
On Mt. Al Balzet in Valle Albigna, a side valley of Val Bregaglia in Switzerland, Natascha Knecht and Marcel Schenk have made the first ascent of a new mixed climb called Un poco Mondo.
Jérémie Heitz and La Liste: Everything or Nothing
Jérémie Heitz and La Liste: Everything or Nothing
The trailer to the La Liste: Everything or Nothing, the film documenting extreme skiers Jérémie Heitz and Samuel Anthamatten as they travel the globe to ski some of the most beautiful and difficult mountains in the world.