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Jeff Merçier climbs first Italian D14 at Bus Quai
07/01/2015 - Alpinism
Jeff Merçier climbs first Italian D14 at Bus Quai
On December 28, 2014 at the drytooling crag Bus del Quai, Iseo, French climber Jeff Mercier made the first ascent of Low G Man, a combination of three existing drytooling routes. Graded D14 this is now the hardest total dry climb in the country. The report by Matteo Rivadossi.
Jakob Schubert repeats Fight or Flight 9b at Oliana in Spain
02/01/2015 - Climbing
Jakob Schubert repeats Fight or Flight 9b at Oliana in Spain
On 31/12/2014 at Oliana in Spain Jakob Schubert climbed his first 9b, Fight or Flight.
Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson start Dawn Wall push
31/12/2014 - Climbing
Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson start Dawn Wall push
American climbers Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson are currently on making their ground-up attempt to free Dawn Wall on El Capitan in Yosemite.
Adam Ondra, the 100 x 9a or harder interview
05/12/2014 - Interviews
Adam Ondra, the 100 x 9a or harder interview
Interview with Czech climber Adam Ondra after his 100th sport climb graded 9a or harder.
Adam Ondra climbs 100 9a or harder!
04/12/2014 - Climbing
Adam Ondra climbs 100 9a or harder!
At Wielka Cima in Poland today the Czech climber Adam Ondra sent his 100th sport route graded 9a or harder.
Gabriele Moroni: from competitions to Goldrake, sport climbing in his DNA
20/11/2014 - Interviews
Gabriele Moroni: from competitions to Goldrake, sport climbing in his DNA
Interview with Italian climber Gabriele Moronim from his first competitions to when he won bronze in the 2004 European Bouldering Championship in 2004, via his bouldering and sport climbing which recently netted him the redpoint of Goldrake 9a+ at Cornalba, Italy.
Lofoten Storpillaren, new climb up Vagakallen by Adam Pustelnik and Andreas Klarström
08/11/2014 - Climbing
Lofoten Storpillaren, new climb up Vagakallen by Adam Pustelnik and Andreas Klarström
This summer Adam Pustelnik and Andreas Klarström made the first ascent of The Corner kick (8a, 900m), a difficult and dangerous new variation to the climb Freya up the Storpillaren pillar on the North Face of Vågakallen, Lofoten islands, Norway.
Hagshu North Face first ascent by Ales Cesen, Luka Lindic and Marko Prezelj
03/11/2014 - Alpinism
Hagshu North Face first ascent by Ales Cesen, Luka Lindic and Marko Prezelj
Between 29 and 30 September 2014, Slovenian alpinists Ales Cesen, Luka Lindic and Marko Prezelj made the first ascent of the North Face of Hagshu (ED, 70°-90°) in the Indian Himalayas.
Has exploratory alpinism failed?
10/10/2014 - Alpinism
Has exploratory alpinism failed?
Starting from a recent statement by Reinhold Messner, Manuel Lugli discusses the presumed end of “traditional” and exploratory alpinism.
Grandes Jorasses, Directe de l'Amitié by Corrado Pesce and Martin Elias
02/10/2014 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses, Directe de l'Amitié by Corrado Pesce and Martin Elias
On 26 and 27 September 2014 Corrado Pesce and Martin Elias repeated Directe de l'Amitie on the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses (Mont Blanc). A route first climbed in winter 1974 by Louis Audoubert, Michel Feuillarade, Marc Galy and Yannick Seigneur, described by Corrado Korra Pesce as 'the most...
Corrado Pesce and his Polish route solo up Grandes Jorasses
09/09/2014 - Alpinism
Corrado Pesce and his Polish route solo up Grandes Jorasses
On Monday 8 September the Italian alpinist Corrado "Korra" Pesce made a fast solo ascent of the Polish route up Pointe Helene on the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses (Mont Blanc).
British trad: great Pembroke climbs by Caroline Ciavaldini, Yuji Hirayama and James Pearson
09/09/2014 - Climbing
British trad: great Pembroke climbs by Caroline Ciavaldini, Yuji Hirayama and James Pearson
At Pembroke in Wales Caroline Ciavaldini has climbed Mercia Wall E8, Yuji Hirayama has climbed The Big Issue E9 while James Pearson has made a flash ascent of Something's Burning E9. Caroline Ciavaldini talks us through these three difficult trad climbs.
Muriel Sarkany and Urko Carmona Barandiaran win the Arco Rock Legends 2014
30/08/2014 - Events
Muriel Sarkany and Urko Carmona Barandiaran win the Arco Rock Legends 2014
On Friday 29/08/2014 during the 9th edition of Arco Rock Legends the Salewa Rock Award was won by Muriel Sarkany while Urko Carmona Barandiaran won the La Sportiva Competition Award. The Climbing Ambassador by Aquafil award was assigned to the Italian writer, sculptor, alpinist and rock climber Mauro Corona.
Domen Skofic repeats Underground at Arco
29/08/2014 - Climbing
Domen Skofic repeats Underground at Arco
Yesterday 20-year-old Domen Skofic repeated Underground 9a at Arco.
Brenta Base Camp #2 - two new routes up Punta Jolanda
25/08/2014 - Alpinism
Brenta Base Camp #2 - two new routes up Punta Jolanda
The report by Alessandro Beber and Alessandro Baù about two new rock climbs on Punta Jolanda: Prua degli Onironauti (250m, VII) and Badanti al seguito (220m, VIII), established on 04/08/2014 together with Matteo Baù, Fabrizio Dellai, Matteo Faletti and Claudia Mario. The second report of the Brenta Base Camp, the...
Destination Flatanger and the Hanshelleren cave for Silvio Reffo
21/08/2014 - Climbing
Destination Flatanger and the Hanshelleren cave for Silvio Reffo
Italian climber Silvio Reffo talks about his climbing trip to Flatanger and the Hanshelleren cave in Norway, where he managed to repeat Odin's eye, 8c+.

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