Alexander Megos rocks Frankenjura, Ceuse and Taipan Wall

Keeping up with Alexander Megos is no easy task. In just a couple of hours the German is capable of climbing routes up to 9a+ and as such he can produce cutting-edge performances on an almost daily basis. Such as his recent flash ascent of an 8b+ in the Frankenjura. While 8b+ flash may at first glance not seem particularly remarkable, given the intense style of climbing predominant in the Frankenjura it certainly is. The ease with which Megos dispatched with the route is somewhat disconcerting and as he lowered off he brushed Baroness to the right, touched the holds, then set off a short while later and sent this 8c first go to conclude this "classic day in the Frankenjura". It is worth noting that Megos had previously flashed one other 8b+ and, importantly, in 2011 he made the first and currently only 8c Frankenjura flash by climbing Raubritter at the Eldorado crag.

Of particular interest though are Megos’ first ascents, and in this regard the last few weeks have been particularly productive. In June the 21-year-old travelled to Australia where, as previously reported, in the Blue Mountains he made the first ascent of the country’s second 9a, Schweinebaumeln (after R.E.D freed 2 years previously) as well as the first ascent of Einfingerkuppenaufleger 34 (8c+). The Taipan Wall is reputed to be one of the most beautiful crags in the world and adding a new route here is a dream come true for many. Megos fueled his dreams by making the first ascents of two new outstanding lines: 5 Star Bin Dive 34 (8c+) and Enter the Dragon 33 (8c).

Upon returning to Europe he travelled to another of the world’s best crags, Ceuse in France, where he freed four new routes at the Bibendum sector bolted by his friend Jörg Andreas: Klabautermann 8a+, Dreikäsehoch 8b+, Bloody Sunday 8b+, and Conquerors of the Useless 9a which he feels is significantly harder than the nearby testpiece Le Cadre 9a.