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Kishtwar: three Himalayan first ascents by Siegrist, Senf and Abegglen
17/10/2014 - Alpinism
Kishtwar: three Himalayan first ascents by Siegrist, Senf and Abegglen
In September 2014 Dres Abegglen, Thomas Senf and Stephan Siegrist made the first ascents of the peaks Shiepra 5885m and Kharagosa 5840m in the Kishtwar region of India's Himalaya. Furthermore, at the start of October the trio climbed a new...
Florian Riegler frees Albatros in Vallunga, Dolomites
14/10/2014 - Alpinism
Florian Riegler frees Albatros in Vallunga, Dolomites
On 27/09/2014 Florian Riegler, together with his brother Martin Riegler, has made the first free ascent of the multi-pitch rock climb Albatros (8b, 200m) up the south face of Col Turont, Vallunga, Dolomites.
Has exploratory alpinism failed?
10/10/2014 - Alpinism
Has exploratory alpinism failed?
Starting from a recent statement by Reinhold Messner, Manuel Lugli discusses the presumed end of “traditional” and exploratory alpinism.
The Grandes Jorasses serac, interview with Michèle Curtaz, Fondazione Montagna Sicura
01/10/2014 - Alpinism
The Grandes Jorasses serac, interview with Michèle Curtaz, Fondazione Montagna Sicura
On 16/09/2014, the Mayor of Courmayeur prohibited access to the path that leads to Rifugio Boccalatte and also the areas below the Whymper serac on the Grandes Jorasses. Excessive zeal on behalf of the town council, or was the serac...
Andreas Fransson and JP Auclair killed by avalanche in Patagonia
Andreas Fransson and JP Auclair killed by avalanche in Patagonia
On 29/09/2014 Swedish skier Andreas Fransson and Canadian skier JP Auclair were killed by an avalanche on Monte San Lorenzo in Patagonia, on the border between Chile and Argentina. Both were considered two of the world's premier skiers.
New route by Simon Kehrer and Christoph Hainz up Sas Ciampac in the Dolomites
30/09/2014 - Alpinism
New route by Simon Kehrer and Christoph Hainz up Sas Ciampac in the Dolomites
In October 2013 the two mountain guides Simon Kehrer and Christoph Hainz made the first ascent of Rien ne va plus (435m, 7b+ max, 7a obligatory), a new climb up the south face of Sas Ciampac, Puez group, Dolomites.
Gasherbrum V, first ascent by the Koreans Chi-young Ahn and Nak-jong Seong
29/09/2014 - Alpinism
Gasherbrum V, first ascent by the Koreans Chi-young Ahn and Nak-jong Seong
On 25/07/2014 the Koreans Chi-young Ahn and Nak-jong Seong completed the first ascent of Gasherbrum V (7147m) in Pakistan, climbing alpine style via a new route up the south face. The report by expedition leader Chi-young Ahn.
Brenta Base Camp 3 - the new climb Attraverso il Tempo on Campanile Basso
10/09/2014 - Alpinism
Brenta Base Camp 3 - the new climb Attraverso il Tempo on Campanile Basso
The third and final dispatch of the Brenta Base Camp, the small 'expedition' into the the heart of the Brenta Dolomites during the Discover Brenta Dolomites event to celebrate the 150th anniversary of the first traverse of this massif. The...
Torre Egger: Italians Patagonia bound
05/09/2014 - Alpinism
Torre Egger: Italians Patagonia bound
From 11 September to 15 November Ermanno Salvaterra, Tomas Franchini, Nicola Binelli and Francesco Salvaterra will return to Patagonia to try and complete their new route, which they started in November 2013, up the centre of the West Face of...
Climbing at Malga Ciapela
28/08/2014 - Climbing
Climbing at Malga Ciapela
The crag Malga Ciapéla, sport climbing beneath the Marmolada in the Italian Dolomites by Mauro Dell'Antonia.
Ak-Su valley, two new rock climbs by Luca Schiera and Matteo De Zaiacomo
12/08/2014 - Alpinism
Ak-Su valley, two new rock climbs by Luca Schiera and Matteo De Zaiacomo
A great and intense and climbing trip to the Ak-su Valley (Pamir Alay, Kyrgyzstan) resulted in two new climbs and three repeats for the Italian alpinists Luca Schiera and Matteo De Zaiacomo. Schiera provides the report.
No Rest For the Wicked, new route in Alaska by John Frieh and Jess Roskelley
08/08/2014 - Alpinism
No Rest For the Wicked, new route in Alaska by John Frieh and Jess Roskelley
On 29 and 30 May 2014 American alpinists John Frieh and Jess Roskelley made the first ascent of No Rest For the Wicked (IV+ AI6 M7), a difficult new route up the West Witches Tit in SE Alaska. The report...
Michel Piola interview: climbing on Mont Blanc, the search and the story that continues
22/07/2014 - Interviews
Michel Piola interview: climbing on Mont Blanc, the search and the story that continues
The fabulous world of Babette, or rather Mont Blanc's marvelous granite climbing, starting from Envers des Aiguilles. Interview with Michel Piola, one of the most prolific alpinists in the world who, in more than 30 years of activity, has left...
Diedro Fouzigora and Via Evergreen, old and new climbs in the Dolomites
09/06/2014 - Alpinism
Diedro Fouzigora and Via Evergreen, old and new climbs in the Dolomites
Cortina Mountain Guide Enrico Maioni reports about the restyling of Diedro Fouzigora on Cason de Formin and the first ascent of Evergreen on Lastoni di Formin, Croda da Lago group, Dolomites.
Piedra Bolada (Mexico): first ascent by Cecilia Buil and Sergio Almada
22/05/2014 - Alpinism
Piedra Bolada (Mexico): first ascent by Cecilia Buil and Sergio Almada
In April 2014 Cecilia Buil and Sergio Almada made the first ascent of Piedra Bolada in Mexico via their new route Rastamuri (VI, 5.11/A4, 1030m).
Testa di Valnontey: following in the tracks of Rèmy Lecluse...
Testa di Valnontey: following in the tracks of Rèmy Lecluse...
On 18 May 2014 Davide Capozzi and Julien Herry snowboarded down the NE Face of Testa di Valnontey (Gran Paradiso), skied for the first and only time by Remy Lecluse in 2010. The report by Davide Capozzi.

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