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K2 in winter without supplementary oxygen - possible or impossible?
14/01/2021 - Alpinism
K2 in winter without supplementary oxygen - possible or impossible?
German journalist Stefan Nestler examines the physiological difficulties associated with climbing K2 in winter without supplemental oxygen. Originally published on his website, Nestler has kindly allowed his text to be republished on planetmountain.com.
Video Patagonia 2019: Lukas Hinterberger, Nicolas Hojac, Stephan Siegrist searching for unclimbed peaks
09/01/2021 - Alpinism
Video Patagonia 2019: Lukas Hinterberger, Nicolas Hojac, Stephan Siegrist searching for unclimbed peaks
The video of the Swiss expedition comprised of Lukas Hinterberger, Nicolas Hojac, Stephan Siegrist to Patagonia in November 2019. The alpinists made the first ascent of the NE Face of Cerro Cachet via Homenaje a los amigos perdidos, named in memory of David Lama, Ueli Steck and Julian Zanker.
New bold Scottish winter climb on Church Door Buttress by Greg Boswell, Hamish Frost, Graham McGrath
30/12/2020 - Alpinism
New bold Scottish winter climb on Church Door Buttress by Greg Boswell, Hamish Frost, Graham McGrath
Climbing with Hamish Frost and Graham McGrath, Greg Boswell has established False Penance, another bold new winter climb to Church Door Buttress on Bidean nam Bian close to Glen Coe in Scotland.
James Pearson & Caroline Ciavaldini: the Black Rocks Hard Grit interview
29/12/2020 - Interviews
James Pearson & Caroline Ciavaldini: the Black Rocks Hard Grit interview
Interview with James Pearson and Caroline Ciavaldini after their respective repeats of Harder Faster and Gaia at Black Rocks in England. These hard grit testpieces were first ascended by Charlie Woodburn and Johnny Dawes and while Pearson’s is only the third ascent in 20 years, Ciavaldini had made the third...
New Age Raiders discovered by Greg Boswell and Callum Johnson on Bidean nam Bian in Scotland
26/12/2020 - Alpinism
New Age Raiders discovered by Greg Boswell and Callum Johnson on Bidean nam Bian in Scotland
On Church Buttress at Bidean nam Bian in Glen Coe, Scotland, Greg Boswell and Callum Johnson have made the first ascent of New Age Raiders, an impressively steep 2-pitch winter climb graded IX 9.
Winter 8000 by Bernadette McDonald
24/12/2020 - Book-press
Winter 8000 by Bernadette McDonald
Winter 8000: Climbing the World's Highest Mountains in the Coldest Season by award-winning author Bernadette McDonald. The best-selling mountaineering book, the most complete analysis of winter climbing in the Himalayas, finalist of all the most important international mountain literature awards.
British climber Aidan Roberts is World Class
22/12/2020 - Climbing
British climber Aidan Roberts is World Class
Last summer relatively unknown British climber Aidan Roberts performed at a world-class level, establishing first ascents up to 8C+. This story is about his bouldering breakthrough and his amazing run of form.
New mixed climbs on Ralfkopf and Glödis in Austria's Lesachtal
17/12/2020 - Alpinism
New mixed climbs on Ralfkopf and Glödis in Austria's Lesachtal
A series of new mixed climbs have been added to Ralfkopf and Glödis above the Lesachtal valley close to Kals am Großglockner in Austria's East Tyrol by Vittorio Messini, Lukas Pichler, Michael Amraser, Isidor Poppeller and Hans Zlöbl.
Niccolò Ceria repeats Gioia, Christian Core's masterpiece at Varazze
16/12/2020 - Climbing
Niccolò Ceria repeats Gioia, Christian Core's masterpiece at Varazze
Italian boulderer Niccolò Ceria has made the fourth ascent of Gioia at Varazze, the boulder problem established by Christian Core in 2008, graded 8C+ and hitherto repeated by only Adam Ondra and Nalle Hukkataival.
Nicolai Užnik sends Bügeleisen sit, 8C in Maltatal, Austria
05/12/2020 - Climbing
Nicolai Užnik sends Bügeleisen sit, 8C in Maltatal, Austria
Bügeleisen sit in the Maltatal has been repeated by Nicolai Uznik. This 8C boulder problem was first climbed in 2014 by Nalle Hukkataival and has been repeated by Jakob Schubert and Stefan Scarperi.
Viktoriia Meshkova, Sascha Lehmann European Lead Champions 2020
25/11/2020 - Competitions
Viktoriia Meshkova, Sascha Lehmann European Lead Champions 2020
In Moscow earlier today Viktoriia Meshkova from Russia and Sascha Lehmann from Switzerland won the 2020 European Lead Championship.
Viktoriia Meshkova & Jernej Kruder crowned European Boulder Champions 2020
23/11/2020 - Competitions
Viktoriia Meshkova & Jernej Kruder crowned European Boulder Champions 2020
In Moscow today Viktoriia Meshkova from Russia and Jernej Kruder from Slovenia won the 2020 European Bouldering Championship. Chloe Caulier and Sergei Luzhetskii won silver, Stasa Gejo and Nikolai Iarilovets bronze.
Ekaterina Barashchuk, Danyil Boldyrev crowned European Speed Champions in Moscow
22/11/2020 - Competitions
Ekaterina Barashchuk, Danyil Boldyrev crowned European Speed Champions in Moscow
Ekaterina Barashchuk from Russia and Danyil Boldyrev from the Ukraine were crowned European Speed Champions in Moscow, Russia, yesterday after beating Elizaveta Ivanov and Lev Rudatskiy. The bronze medal was won by Iuliia Kaplina and Marcin Dzienski. Kaplina set a new Speed World Record in the qualification round, stopping the...
Climbing on Greenland's Sharks Tooth: the film featuring Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach, Christian Ledergerber
21/11/2020 - Alpinism
Climbing on Greenland's Sharks Tooth: the film featuring Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach, Christian Ledergerber
Tonight at 8.00 pm the film 'The Great Shark Hunt: Climb and kayak in Greenland', documenting the by fair means climbing expedition to Greenland carried out in 2014 by Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach and Christian Ledergerber.
Mélissa Le Nevé Action Directe trailer
20/11/2020 - Climbing
Mélissa Le Nevé Action Directe trailer
The trailer of the film that documents Melissa Le Nevé making the first female ascent of Action Directe, the world’s most revered 9a put up by Wolfgang Güllich in the Frankenjura
New mixed climb on Wasserkopf in South Tyrol by Simon Gietl, Davide Prandini
16/11/2020 - Alpinism
New mixed climb on Wasserkopf in South Tyrol by Simon Gietl, Davide Prandini
On 07/11/2020, just before South Tyrol declared itself in lockdown due to Covid, Simon Gietl and Davide Prandini made the first ascent of Aquädukt (IV, M5 650m), a new mixed climb up the north face of Wasserkopf (3135m) in the Rieserferner group of the Tauern Alps. At 3/4 height the...