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Ray Jardine's Friends, a teacup and a blue bag
07/11/2016 - Climbing
Ray Jardine's Friends, a teacup and a blue bag
Maurizio Oviglia recalls the invention of the Friend, the revolutionary camming device invented in the 1970s by the America’s Ray Jardine. A fun story that retraces an important moment in the history of rock climbing.
Marek Raganowicz solo climbs Plastic Surgery Disaster on El Capitan
04/11/2016 - Climbing
Marek Raganowicz solo climbs Plastic Surgery Disaster on El Capitan
From 5 to 20 October 2016 Marek Raganowicz made what is believed to be only the second solo ascent of Plastic Surgery Disaster, the A5 aid climb put up in 1991 by Eric Kohl on El Capitan, Yosemite, USA.
Petra Klingler / climbing like a Bouldering World Champion in South Korea
04/11/2016 - Climbing
Petra Klingler / climbing like a Bouldering World Champion in South Korea
The World Bouldering Champion Petra Klingler from Switzerland reports about her recent travels to South Korea where she took part in the first Mudeungsan Bouldering Festival.
Via dei Balotini, new rock climb on Torre Argentina in Vallaccia, Dolomites
04/11/2016 - Alpinism
Via dei Balotini, new rock climb on Torre Argentina in Vallaccia, Dolomites
In October 2015 on Torre Argentina in the Vallaccia group (Val di Fassa, Dolomites) the brothers Enrico Geremia and Nicolò Geremia made the first ascent of 'Via dei Balotini', a new rock climb to the right of Via Maffei - Frizzera.
Jernej Kruder / the Es Pontas deep water solo interview
02/11/2016 - Interviews
Jernej Kruder / the Es Pontas deep water solo interview
Interview with Slovenian climber Jernej Kruder who on 01/11/2016 made the first repeat of Es Pontas, the famous deep water solo climb first ascended a decade ago by Chris Sharma on the island of Mallorca, Spain.
L'uomo volante on Quarto Torrione di Mondeval, Dolomites
02/11/2016 - Alpinism
L'uomo volante on Quarto Torrione di Mondeval, Dolomites
On the Quarto Torrione di Mondeval, Lastoni of Formin group, Dolomites, Francesco Leardi and Valerio Ranzato have made the first ascent of 'L'uomo volante'. The new rock climb is dedicated to Dario Zanon, an Italian BASE Jumper who died in June 2016 during a jump in the Mont Blanc massif.
Mt. Hutsa & Peak 5912m, new international climbs in Genyen massif, Sichuan
01/11/2016 - Alpinism
Mt. Hutsa & Peak 5912m, new international climbs in Genyen massif, Sichuan
New Zealand mountaineer Robert Partridge reports about the international expedition comprised of Peter Linney (EIRE), Luca Vallata & Tito Arosio (IT), James Monypenny, Tom Nichols & Heather Swift (UK) that established various new routes in the Genyen massif of China's Sichuan province including the first ascents of Mt. Hutsa (5863m)...
Adam Ondra Yosemite Dawn Wall update #2
29/10/2016 - Climbing
Adam Ondra Yosemite Dawn Wall update #2
Update about Adam Ondra and developments from the 'Dawn Wall', the big wall on El Capitan in Yosemite, USA, freed by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson in 2014/2015.
Belvedere at Nago, sports climbing above Lake Garda
28/10/2016 - Climbing
Belvedere at Nago, sports climbing above Lake Garda
Rock climbing at the historic crag Belvedere at Nago (Arco, Italy), with a splendid view across Lake Garda, presented by Vertical-Life.info as part of our series 'Crags for each season'. Download the Vertical-Life APP with the routes and topos free of charge until Saturday.
Aiguille d'Entrèves and the climb Cocktail entr'Eve et Salluard. By Enrico Bonino
27/10/2016 - Alpinism
Aiguille d'Entrèves and the climb Cocktail entr'Eve et Salluard. By Enrico Bonino
Enrico Bonino talks about a modern interpretation of the Salluard climbs (plus variations) up the West Face of Aguille d'Entrèves in the Mont Blanc massif. The route was climbed in two stages, on 20/10/2016 by Enrico Bonino and Andrea Racchelli, and completed on 22/10/2016 by Bonino together with Ilaria Sonatore...
Kyzyl Asker success for Ines Papert and Luka Lindič
26/10/2016 - Alpinism
Kyzyl Asker success for Ines Papert and Luka Lindič
Alpinists Luka Lindič and Ines Papert have made the first ascent of 'Lost in China' (ED, WI 5+, M6, 1200m) up the SE Face of Kyzyl Asker (5842m), Kyrgyzstan.
Renan Ozturk: Obsessed or Devoted
26/10/2016 - Alpinism
Renan Ozturk: Obsessed or Devoted
The video portrait of American alpinist and artist Renan Ozturk.
British first ascents in Miyar Valley and Temasa Valley, Indian Himalaya
25/10/2016 - Alpinism
British first ascents in Miyar Valley and Temasa Valley, Indian Himalaya
British mountaineers Dave Sharpe and John Crook have made the first ascent of Raja Peak via their new ‘Transcendence’ up the mountain’s North Face above the Temasa Valley. In the Miyar valley the duo made the first ascent of ‘Last Chance Saloon’(1300m, Scottish 4, TD-) up James Peak (5780m), while...
Valery Rozov BASE jumps from 7700m off Cho Oyu
25/10/2016 - Alpinism
Valery Rozov BASE jumps from 7700m off Cho Oyu
On 5 October 2016 Russia’s Valery Rozov leapt from a record-breaking altitude of 7700m off Cho Oyu, the sixth highest mountain in the world.
Black Pearl, new Riegler rock climb in Val Lunga, Dolomites
25/10/2016 - Alpinism
Black Pearl, new Riegler rock climb in Val Lunga, Dolomites
Florian Riegler reports about the first ascent of Black Pearl (8a+, 170m) a new multi-pitch route he first ascended with his brother Martin Riegler in Val Lunga, Dolomites.
Stefano Ghisolfi and Janja Garnbret win Lead World Cup in Xiamen
25/10/2016 - Competitions
Stefano Ghisolfi and Janja Garnbret win Lead World Cup in Xiamen
Last weekend the sixth stage of the Lead World Cup 2016 took place in Xiamen, China, won by Italy’s Stefano Ghisolfi and Slovenia’s Janja Garnbret. While Klaudia Buczek and Stanislav Kokorin won the final stage of the Speed World Cup, overall season victory went to the Poles Iuliia Kaplina and...

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