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Steve House, looking back on the Denali Slovak Direct
19/07/2017 - Alpinism
Steve House, looking back on the Denali Slovak Direct
17 years after his ground-breaking ascent, American alpinist Steve House looks back on the extremely fast repeat of the Slovak Direct up the south face of Denali (Alaska), climbed with Mark Twight and Scott Backes in 60 hours non-stop.
Denali, Alaska: Slovak Direct repeated by David Bacci and Luca Moroni
11/07/2017 - Alpinism
Denali, Alaska: Slovak Direct repeated by David Bacci and Luca Moroni
On their first climbing trip to Alaska, alpinists David Bacci and Luca Moroni pulled off the first Italian repeat of the Slovak Direct route up Denali (6194m) in Alaska.
Mount Huntington: Clint Helander and Jess Roskelley climb complete South Ridge in Alaska
05/07/2017 - Alpinism
Mount Huntington: Clint Helander and Jess Roskelley climb complete South Ridge in Alaska
Interview with American alpinists Jess Roskelley who made the first ascent of the South Ridge on Mount Huntington (3731m) in Alaska with Clint Helander. Called the Gauntlet Ridge (Alaska Grade 6, M6, A0, 95° snow, 2,500m), the committing new route was climbed alpine style over an 8-day period in mid-April.
Tempi Moderni on Marmolada, a young adventure in the Dolomites
13/06/2017 - Alpinism
Tempi Moderni on Marmolada, a young adventure in the Dolomites
18-year-old Marco Cordin's retraces his recent repeat, together with the 16-year-old Pietro Garzon, of Tempi Moderni up the south face of Marmolada. First climbed in 1982 by Heinz Mariacher and Luisa Iovane, this is one of the most famous rock climbs in the Dolomites.
Grand Combin de Valsorey South Face
Grand Combin de Valsorey south face
The video by Yannick Boissenot and Davide Capozzi of their recent ski and snowboard descent of the south face of Grand Combin de Valsorey in Switzerland.
Everest & Co, good and bad news from the highest mountains in the world
25/05/2017 - Alpinism
Everest & Co, good and bad news from the highest mountains in the world
Mountaineering: the latest updates from Everest, Lhotse, Dhaulagiri, Cho Oyu and Makalu, concerning Kilian Jornet Burgada, Elisabeth Revol and Marco Confortola as well as Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger's attempt at Kangchenjunga. Furthermore, several deaths have been reported.
Hervé Barmasse and David Göttler, 13 hours up the South Face of Shisha Pangma
23/05/2017 - Alpinism
Hervé Barmasse and David Göttler, 13 hours up the south face of Shisha Pangma
On Sunday, May 21, 2017, Hervé Barmasse from Italy and and David Göttler from Germany climbed the 2200m southwest face of Shisha Pangma (Tibet, Himalaya) in just 13 hours and in pure alpine style.
Distensione, new rock climb in Val Gadena by Alessio Roverato and Angela Carraro
22/05/2017 - Climbing
Distensione, new rock climb in Val Gadena by Alessio Roverato and Angela Carraro
The report and topo by Alessio Roverato of the new multi-pitch rock climb Distensione (180m, 7a+ max, 6c+ obl) on Monte Spiz in Val Gadena (Valsugana Italy), established with Angela Carraro.
Christoph Hainz cleans up Der Fluch der Kamine at Sass dai Tamersc, Dolomites
09/05/2017 - Alpinism
Christoph Hainz cleans up Der Fluch der Kamine at Sass dai Tamersc, Dolomites
On the south face of Sass dai Tamersc Christoph Hainz has reequipped Der Fluch der Kamine (VII-, 390m). According to mountain guide from the South Tyrol this climb 'has the potential to become a classic rock climb' in the Italian Dolomites.
Ueli Steck's dream
03/05/2017 - Interviews
Ueli Steck's dream
We have republished an interview with Ueli Steck we carried out in February 2006 at the Piolet d’Or award, for which the Swiss alpinist had been nominated for his solo enchainment of Cholatse, Tawoche and Ama Dablam.
Ueli Steck, the man and mountaineer
01/05/2017 - Alpinism
Ueli Steck, the man and mountaineer
In memory of Ueli Steck, the great Swiss mountaineer who died yesterday on Nuptse close to Everest.
Ueli Steck dies in Everest accident
30/04/2017 - Alpinism
Ueli Steck dies in Everest accident
Swiss alpinist Ueli Steck has died near Mount Everest. The body of the 40-year-old ace mountaineer was found close to Camp 1 on the nearby Nuptse Face, where he was acclimatising for one of the most incredible mountaineering projects in the Himalaya: the Everest - Lhotse traverse.
Hervé Barmasse, Shisha Pangma and the lure of unpredictable mountaineering
24/04/2017 - Alpinism
Hervé Barmasse, Shisha Pangma and the lure of unpredictable mountaineering
Interview with Hervé Barmasse, the Italian alpinist and Matterhorn mountain guide who together with Germany’s David Göttler will attempt a new route up the south face of Shisha Pangma (8027m) in Tibet. Should things go according to plan this would be Barmasse’s first 8000er.
Patagonia: Franchini brothers climb new route on Cerro Penitentes
29/03/2017 - Alpinism
Patagonia: Franchini brothers climb new route on Cerro Penitentes
Climbing in Patagonia: on 26/01/2017 Tomas Franchini and his brother Silvestro Franchini made a quick, alpine style first ascent up Cerro Penitentes. The new route is called ‘El Mariano’ (750m, 85° M4).
Via MammaSandra, new rock climb in Val Zemola, Dolomites
22/03/2017 - Climbing
Via MammaSandra, new rock climb in Val Zemola, Dolomites
On Monte Porgeit in Val Zemola (Dolomites) Daniele Geremia, Nicolò Cadorin and Maurizio Fontana have made the first ascent of Via MammaSandra (7b+, 7a+ obligatory, 250m), a new multi-pitch sport climb.
Pedra Longa in Sardinia / The Spigolo dell'Ospitalità rock climb
13/03/2017 - Climbing
Pedra Longa in Sardinia / The Spigolo dell'Ospitalità rock climb
The multi-pitch rock climb Spigolo dell’Ospitalità was first ascended in 1982 by Umberto Marampon up the beautiful Pedra Longa tower in Sardinia. Maurizio Oviglia and Fabio Erriu recently made a rare, possibly even first, repeat of this climb above the coast of Baunei.