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Grandes Jorasses, odyssey ends in tragedy for the two missing alpinists
09/11/2011 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses, odyssey ends in tragedy for the two missing alpinists
After a 6 day ordeal, the lifeless bodies of French alpinists Olivier Sourzac and Charlotte De Metzi were located this morning on the Grandes Jorasses.
Chasin the Trane greenpoint in the Frankenjura
07/11/2011 - Climbing
Chasin the Trane greenpoint in the Frankenjura
German climber Heiko Queitsch has climbed the famous Frankenjura routes Fight Gravity (by Kurt Albert) and Chasin the Train (by John Bachar) without using the bolts but with trad gear.
Piolet d'Or Asia won by Denis Urubko and Gennadiy Durov for Pik Pobeda
07/11/2011 - Events
Piolet d'Or Asia won by Denis Urubko and Gennadiy Durov for Pik Pobeda
Kazakh alpinists Denis Urubko and Gennadiy Durov have won the Piolet d'or Asia for the new route they established last August on Pik Pobeda (7439m).
Century Crack climbed all free
06/11/2011 - Climbing
Century Crack climbed all free
Pete Whittaker and Tom Randall have climbed Century Crack at Canyonlands, USA, without pre-placed gear
Shoshala Trishul direct, a tribute to Giovanni Quirici
04/11/2011 - Alpinism
Shoshala Trishul direct, a tribute to Giovanni Quirici
The film documenting the last expedition carried out by Giovanni Quirici and the ascent of Shoshala via the new route Trishul direct together with Elie Chevieux and Yannick Boissenot.
Momento Libero, new route by Alessio Roverato on Sasso Rosso
02/11/2011 - Climbing
Momento Libero, new route by Alessio Roverato on Sasso Rosso
Last summer Alessio Roverato established Momento Libero (330m, 8a max, 7a/b obligatory), up the SE Face of Sasso Rosso (Valsugana, Valbrenta, Italy).
Century Crack 8c
02/11/2011 - Climbing
Century Crack 8c
Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker have produced a grade for Century Crack in the Canyonlands, USA: 8c.
Shakti, new route for Riccardo Scarian
02/11/2011 - Climbing
Shakti, new route for Riccardo Scarian
On 17/10/2011 Riccardo Scarian carried out the first free ascent of Shakti (200m, max 8b+/8c, obl. 7c/8a), the route he had established in August 2011 with various partners up the SW Face of Picco delle Aquile, Monte Coppolo, Valnuvola.
Cerro Kishtwar important Himalayan first ascent for David Lama, Stephan Siegrist, Denis Burdet and Rob Frost
30/10/2011 - Alpinism
Cerro Kishtwar important Himalayan first ascent for David Lama, Stephan Siegrist, Denis Burdet and Rob Frost
David Lama, Stephan Siegrist, Denis Burdet and Rob Frost have established a new route up the NW Face via their Yoniverse to reach the summit of Cerro Kishtwar (6155m), Himalaya. Siegrist and Burdet then ascended the nearby untouched 6040m peak White Saphire.
Mick Fowler and Dave Turnbull first ascent of Mugu Chuli in Nepal
29/10/2011 - Alpinism
Mick Fowler and Dave Turnbull first ascent of Mugu Chuli in Nepal
British alpinists Mick Fowler and Dave Turnbull have made the first ascent of Mugu Chuli (6310m) in Nepal.
Neil Gresham, Hydrotherapy Deep Water Solo in Pembroke
24/10/2011 - Climbing
Neil Gresham, Hydrotherapy Deep Water Solo in Pembroke
Neil Gresham has established Hydrotherapy 8a+ at Pembroke, one of the hardest Deep Water Solo outings in Great Britain.
Marco Anghileri: first solo ascent of L'Ultimo Zar on Pale di San Lucano
21/10/2011 - Alpinism
Marco Anghileri: first solo ascent of L'Ultimo Zar on Pale di San Lucano
On 13 and 14 ocotber 2011 Marco Anghileri carried out the first solo ascent of "L'Ultimo Zar" (500m, 7+ A3). This is the 5th solo climb this season, all carried out in the Lecco Grigna area.
Sasha DiGiulian, the Pure Imagination 9a interview
20/10/2011 - Interviews
Sasha DiGiulian, the Pure Imagination 9a interview
Interview with American climber Sasha DiGiulian after her ascent of Pure Imagination 9a at Red River Gorge, USA.
Quantum of Solace, Ines Papert and Wolfgang Russegger breach the Great Wall of China in Kyrgyzstan
19/10/2011 - Alpinism
Quantum of Solace, Ines Papert and Wolfgang Russegger breach the Great Wall of China in Kyrgyzstan
After an aborted attempt on Mount Kyzyl Asker, Ines Papert and Wolfgang Russegger established Quantum of Solace (ABO, WI 7+, M7, 600m) up the Great Wall of China in Kyrgyzstan.
Yuji Hirayama climbs Italian trad
18/10/2011 - Climbing
Yuji Hirayama climbs Italian trad
During a brief trip to Italy the Japanese climber Yuji Hirayama visited the crags Discoteca, Cadarese, Valle dell'Orco and Balmanolesca in search of Italian trad.
Kalymnos bolt alert
18/10/2011 - Climbing
Kalymnos bolt alert
Aris Theodoropoulos warns climbers visiting the Greek island of Kalymnos about defective bolts placed on a series of new routes, listed in this post.

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