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The North Face of Monte Sarmiento and the 1986 first ascent by the Ragni di Lecco
27/05/2010 - Alpinism
The North Face of Monte Sarmiento and the 1986 first ascent by the Ragni di Lecco
Contrary to what we published previously, the ascent by the Germans Robert Jasper, Jörn Heller and Ralf Gantzhorn is not the first ascent of the North Face of Monte Sarmiento, as this had previously been climbed by an Italian Ragni di Lecco expedition which on 24/12/1986 reached the West Summit...
Himalayan helicopter rescues
25/05/2010 - Alpinism
Himalayan helicopter rescues
Interview with Gerold Biner, operations manager of Air Zermatt, after the recent helicopter rescue missions in the Himalaya.
Checkmate by the Riegler brothers on Gran Zebrù
19/05/2010 - Alpinism
Checkmate by the Riegler brothers on Gran Zebrù
In winter 2010 Florian and Martin Riegler carried out the first ascent of Schachmatt - Checkmate- 1000m M10+ WI5 55°) on the North Face of Gran Zebrù.
De rerum natura, new route by Oviglia and Larcher at Bavella, Corsica
06/05/2010 - Climbing
De rerum natura, new route by Oviglia and Larcher at Bavella, Corsica
On 16 April Maurizio Oviglia and Rolando Larcher carried out the first free ascent of De rerum natura (230m, 7c max, 7a obbl, /RS2+/II) on Punta u Corbu at Col de la Bavella, Corsica.
El Gigante, Mexico, new route
27/04/2010 - Climbing
El Gigante, Mexico, new route
In March an international group of climbers including Leopoldo Faria from Portugal forged a 400m line up poor rock on El Gigante in Mexico.
Marco Da Pozzo has left us
26/04/2010 - Alpinism
Marco Da Pozzo has left us
Marco Da Pozzo died this morning after falling from the roof of the church steeple he was fixing at Cortina d'Ampezzo. An extremely talented climber and alpinist, Marco Da Pozzo was one of the most famous and highly regarded members of the Scoiattoli mountaineering club and Cortina d'Ampezzo Mountain Guides.
Monte Sarmiento, Patagonia, North Face first ascent
23/04/2010 - Alpinism
Monte Sarmiento, Patagonia, North Face first ascent
At the start of April the Germans Robert Jasper, Jörn Heller and Ralf Gantzhorn reached the West summit of Monte Sarmiento (2145m) via a new route up the North Face.
  • CORRECTION 05/2010: the north face had already been climbed by an Italian Ragni di Lecco expedition in 1986
  • Ginat route, les Droites, Ueli Steck solo video
    21/04/2010 - Alpinism
    Ginat route, les Droites, Ueli Steck solo video
    In January 2010 Ueli Steck soloed the Ginat route (ED,V, M4+, 85°, 1000m) up the North Face of Les Droites in 2:08. Check out the video and interview.
    Simon Gietl, from the new route in Patagonia to the Phantom der Zinne
    20/04/2010 - Alpinism
    Simon Gietl, from the new route in Patagonia to the Phantom der Zinne
    Even if spring is at the doorstep, it's worth analysing the climbs of Simon Gietl from the South Tyrol, who this winter carried out the first ascent in Patagonia together with Roger Schäli before repeating the famous Phantom der Zinner on the Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Dolomites together with Marc...
    Rock climbing in Cuba
    16/04/2010 - Climbing
    Rock climbing in Cuba
    Armando Menocal explores the delights of climbing in Cuba around the Valle de Vinales and suggests 40 superb routes at the main crag Mogote del Valle.
    Monte Cimo action by Tondini & Sartori
    09/04/2010 - Climbing
    Monte Cimo action by Tondini & Sartori
    Climbing video of Nicola Tondini and Nicola Sartori during the first ascent, ground-up, of a new multi-pitch on Monte Cimo (Brentino), Italy.
    Adam Ondra, Goldrake 9a+ at Cornalba
    07/04/2010 - Climbing
    Adam Ondra, Goldrake 9a+ at Cornalba
    17-year-old Adam Ondra has carried out the first ascent of Goldrake 9a+, a route bolted by Bruno "Camos" Tassi years ago at Cornalba, Italy.
    Lucid Dreaming, new extreme boulder problem at the Buttermilks, Bishop by Paul Robinson
    31/03/2010 - Climbing
    Lucid Dreaming, new extreme boulder problem at the Buttermilks, Bishop by Paul Robinson
    American climber Paul Robinson has made the first ascent of Lucid Dreaming V16/Fb8C+ al Buttermilks, Bishop, California, USA.
    Piolet d'Or 2010: the candidates and the evenings in Courmayeur and Chamonix
    30/03/2010 - Events
    Piolet d'Or 2010: the candidates and the evenings in Courmayeur and Chamonix
    The Piolet d'Or 2010 will take place from 8 - 10 April in the towns of Courmayeur and Chamonix with a series of conferences, debates, films, meetings and other cultural activities. The event begins on Thursday 8 April in Courmayeur with an evening dedicated to young climbing partnerships...
    Matterhorn South Face, new route by Marco and Hervé Barmasse
    30/03/2010 - Alpinism
    Matterhorn South Face, new route by Marco and Hervé Barmasse
    On 13 March 2010 Marco and Hervé Barmasse established a new route up the South Face of the Matterhorn. Their 1220m line solves one of the "problems" up the massive "Becca" face, attempted by numerous climbers in the past. The exclusive interview with Hervé Barmasse.
    Civetta North West Face: first winter ascent of Captain Skyhook by Tondini and Baù
    23/03/2010 - Alpinism
    Civetta North West Face: first winter ascent of Captain Skyhook by Tondini and Baù
    On 19 March 2010 Alessandro Baù and Nicola Tondini carried out the first winter ascent and third ascent overall of Captain Skyhook (500m + 380m pedestal, 7b+) on the Northwest Face of the Civetta, Dolomites.

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