615 News found

In June Ines Papert, Joseph Pfnür, Luka Lindič and Paul McSorley made the fist ascent of Ruby Supernova, a new 520m high trad climb with difficulties up to ED1 7b+ (VI 5.12c) on Slanghoek Peak, Du Toits Kloof Mountains, South Africa

The latest trad climbs at Monte Limbara on the North of Sardinia, first ascended by Maurizio Oviglia and Filippo Manca. Oviglia provides the report.

Mountaineering in Switzerland: Italian mountain guide Alberto De Giuli introduces the famous Wandfluegrat, also referred to as the Dent Blanche South Ridge (4357m), the classic alpine ridge high above Val d'Herens in Switzerland’s canton Valais.

18-year-old Marco Cordin's retraces his recent repeat, together with the 16-year-old Pietro Garzon, of Tempi Moderni up the South Face of Marmolada. First climbed in 1982 by Heinz Mariacher and Luisa Iovane, this is one of the most famous rock climbs in the Dolomites.

Interview with South Tyrolean mountain guide Christoph Hainz, one of the world's most talented alpinists and climbers.

On Sunday 21/05/2017 Rolando Larcher and Herman Zanetti made the probable first repeat of Tra Nuvole e Sogni (200m, 8a max, 7b obligatory), the difficult climb put up by Nicola Tondini and Andrea Simonini in 2012 on Monte Cimo (Brentino, Val d’Adige, Italy).

Mountaineering on the Matterhorn: from 15 - 16 March Alexander Huber from Germany and Switzerland’s Dani Arnold and Thomas Senf climbed a new route up the legendary North Face of one of the symbols of the Alps. The new climb is called Schweizernase and shares the start of the Gogna-Cerruti...

Climbing in Patagonia: on 26/01/2017 Tomas Franchini and his brother Silvestro Franchini made a quick, alpine style first ascent up Cerro Penitentes. The new route is called ‘El Mariano’ (750m, 85° M4).

On 14 March 2017 American rock climbing pioneer Royal Robbins passed away. Aged 82, Robbins was one of the best American climbers during the ’60’s and ’70’s, the period known in "Golden Age"" of Yosemite Valley climbing. Robbins was a pioneer and advocate of clean climbing, i.e. without pegs and...

The multi-pitch rock climb Spigolo dell’Ospitalità was first ascended in 1982 by Umberto Marampon up the beautiful Pedra Longa tower in Sardinia. Maurizio Oviglia and Fabio Erriu recently made a rare, possibly even first, repeat of this climb above the coast of Baunei.

On 19/01/2017 Hansjörg Auer and Reinhard Obweger made the first ascent of Freizeitstress, a new mixed climb in Ötztal, Austria.

Philipp Angelo, Fabrizio della Rossa and Thomas Gianola report about their first ascent of All-in (AI 6-, M7, R), a difficult new ice and mixed climb up the North Face of Sas Pegorer, Gran Vernel (Marmolada, Dolomites).

In December 2016 Matej Arh and Klemen Gerbec made the first winter ascents of two summer routes up the North Face of Mt Škrlatica in Slovenia. In their winter version these routes offer outstanding and challenging winter climbing in one of the most beautiful and remote corners of the Julian...

Mountaineering in the Mont Blanc massif: on the North face of Aiguille des Pélerins (3318m) Jeff Mercier, together with Lucien Boucansaud, Xavier Cailhol and Bastien Lardat, has climbed 'Les Flammes de l’enfer’, a new variation to the famous ice and mixed climb Beyond Good and Evil.

On 7 December 2016 Maurizio Manolo Zanolla, belayed by Daniele Lira shortly before his 59th birthday, made the second ascent and first repeat of Il Mattino dei Maghi, the legendary climb first ascended in 1981 by Manolo at the crag Totoga (Pale di San Martino, Dolomites) and, until now, unrepeated.

On 13 December 2016 Daniel Ladurner and Johannes Lemayer made the first ascent of Pleishornwasserfall (260m, WI6, M7+, A1), the obvious drip that plunges down the Northeast Face of Ortler, at 3905m the highest mountain in Italy’s South Tyrol.