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Broad Peak: all hope lost for Maciej Berbeka and Tomasz Kowalski
08/03/2013 - Alpinism
Broad Peak: all hope lost for Maciej Berbeka and Tomasz Kowalski
Krzysztof Wielicki has called off the Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak. The bodies of Maciej Berbeka and Tomasz Kowalski will remain up on the mountain.
Simone Moro, the drama on Broad Peak and winter mountaineering in the Himalaya
07/03/2013 - Alpinism
Simone Moro, the drama on Broad Peak and winter mountaineering in the Himalaya
The thoughts of Simone Moro about high-altitude winter mountaineering on the world's Eight-thousanders and about the events which have taken place and are currently unfolding on Broad Peak.
Difficult hours for Poles on Broad Peak first winter ascent
06/03/2013 - Alpinism
Difficult hours for Poles on Broad Peak first winter ascent
The situation is currently extremely difficult for the Polish mountaineers who carried out the first winter ascent of Broad Peak yesterday: while Artur Malek and Adam Bielecki spent the night at Camp IV, Maciej Berbeka and Tomasz Kowalski bivied at...
Broad Peak first winter ascent by Polish expedition!
05/03/2013 - Alpinism
Broad Peak first winter ascent by Polish expedition!
On 5 March 2013 Maciej Berbeka, Adam Bielecki, Tomasz Kowalski and Artur Malek made the historic first winter of Broad Peak. The Polish mountaineers are members of an expedition led by the living monument to alpinism Krzysztof Wielicki. With this...
Superb new winter climbs in Scotland
12/02/2013 - Alpinism
Superb new winter climbs in Scotland
A report of the recent new winter routes climbed in Scotland which include Shooting the Breeze (IX,8 Guy Robertson, Greg Boswell) and Immortal Memory (IX,9 Guy Robertson, Jason Currie) on Beinn Eighe, Vapourizer (VIII,8 Guy Robertson, Greg Boswell) on Creag...
Difficult winter ascent of Trollveggen Troll Wall in Norway
02/02/2013 - Alpinism
Difficult winter ascent of Trollveggen Troll Wall in Norway
Andy Kirkpatrick, Tormod Granheim and Aleksander Gamme have made a winter ascent of the route Suser Gjennom Harryland on Trollveggen (Troll Wall) in Norway.
Pilastro Magno, Sassolungo first winter ascent by Milani and Travaglia
22/01/2013 - Alpinism
Pilastro Magno, Sassolungo first winter ascent by Milani and Travaglia
On 8, 9 and 10 January 2013, Giorgio Travaglia and Francesco Milani made the first wintere ascent - with two bivouacs - of "Pilastro Magno" (950m, VI), the route established in summer 1993 by Ivo Rabanser and Marco Furlani up...
New winter climbs in Croatia and Herzegovina
17/01/2013 - Alpinism
New winter climbs in Croatia and Herzegovina
A team of Croatian alpinists has established a host of new routes in the Velebit massif in Croatia and on Cvrsnica in Herzegovina.
Orient Express on Gran Sasso, the story of the first winter attempt and the strength of a partnership
15/01/2013 - Alpinism
Orient Express on Gran Sasso, the story of the first winter attempt and the strength of a partnership
On 30/12/2012 Andrea Di Donato, Andrea Di Pascasio and Lorenzo Angelozzi attempted the first winter ascent of Orient Express, but were stopped by Angelozzi's massive fall. Fortunately there were no serious consequences. Andrea Di Pascasio recounts the story.
Alpinism and climbing in 2012 - part 1
02/01/2013 - Alpinism
Alpinism and climbing in 2012 - part 1
Part one of what happend, in alpinism and in climbing, in 2012. A summary, for obvious reason incomplete, of the climbs, the most beautiful achievements and also the most painful moments in 2012. In the hope that this résumé serves...
Alpinism, fabulous and silent, at Castello Provenzale
24/12/2012 - Alpinism
Alpinism, fabulous and silent, at Castello Provenzale
On 23 December Ivo Ferrari and Dario Spreafico repeated Lo Spigolo Maria Grazia on the East Face of Castello Provenzale (Valle Maira, Hautes Alpes). The report Ivo Ferrari.
New winter routes up Pizzo del Becco
19/12/2012 - Alpinism
New winter routes up Pizzo del Becco
On 8 and 9 December 2012 three new routes were established up the North Face of Piz Spallone Pizzo del Becco (Orobie, Alta Val Brembana, BG); Fò di B.A.L (250m, III - WI 2 - M5), Beccati questa Goulotte (250m,...
Conrad Anker and Simone Moro at London for the TNF Speaker Series 2012
06/12/2012 - Events
Conrad Anker and Simone Moro at London for the TNF Speaker Series 2012
The final stage of the The North Face Speaker Series 2012 took place in London on 20/11/2012 with two great alpinists: America's Conrad Anker and Italy's Simone Moro. The themes couldn't have been any others than alpinism and the Himalaya,...
Pilastro Parmenide, new route up Cima dell'Auta
29/08/2012 - Alpinism
Pilastro Parmenide, new route up Cima dell'Auta
On 1 -2/08/2012 Italian climbers Giorgio Travaglia and Stefano Valsecchi made the first ascent of Pilastro Parmenide (500m VI + A3+ + 100m of grade II) up the South Face of Cima dell'Auta orientale (Marmolada, Dolomites). The route was started...
Fitz Roy new route attempt by Michael Lerjen-Demjen and Jorge Ackermann
24/08/2012 - Alpinism
Fitz Roy new route attempt by Michael Lerjen-Demjen and Jorge Ackermann
Swiss climbers Michael Lerjen-Demjen and Jorge Ackermann have failed in their attempt to forge a new route up Fitz Roy in Patagonia
Cerro Standhardt winter success for Siegrist, Senf and Weber
16/08/2012 - Alpinism
Cerro Standhardt winter success for Siegrist, Senf and Weber
Stephan Siegrist, Thomas Senf and Ralf Weber have successfully climbed Cerro Stanhardt, the northermost summit of Patagonia's Cerro Torre group, in winter and in alpine style via the classic Exocet route.

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