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Langdung: new Spanish route in Nepalese Himalayas
22/11/2018 - Alpinism
Langdung: new Spanish route in Nepalese Himalayas
At the end of October 2018 Spanish mountaineers Pablo Ruix (Blín), Jesús Ibarz and Edu Recio established a new route up Langdung (6357 m) above the Rolwaling valley in Nepal. Ibarz reports about their Bihâna (6c+, 1500 m, ED+).
Patagonia El Faro climbed by Martin Elias, François Poncet and Jérôme Sullivan
07/11/2018 - Alpinism
Patagonia El Faro climbed by Martin Elias, François Poncet and Jérôme Sullivan
In Patagonia close to Cerro San Lorenzo alpinists Martin Elias, François Poncet and Jérôme Sullivan have made the first ascent of a previously unclimbed tower. Called El Faro, it was climbed alpine style via their new route La Milagrosa (1200m, A3, M7, 6a).
Grossglockner: new route climbed by Hans Zlöbl and Ulrich Mühlburger
22/10/2018 - Alpinism
Grossglockner: new route climbed by Hans Zlöbl and Ulrich Mühlburger
Hans Zlöbl and Ulrich Mühlburger have made the first ascent of The Power of Love, a new climb up the SE Face of Großglockner, the highest mountain in Austria.
Ben Dare makes solo first ascent of new mixed climb up Mt Percy Smith, New Zealand
16/10/2018 - Alpinism
Ben Dare makes solo first ascent of new mixed climb up Mt Percy Smith, New Zealand
On 7 October 2018 Ben Dare made a solo first ascent of ‘The Promise’, a new mixed climb up the 700m high SW Face of Mt Percy Smith, New Zealand.
Piolets d’Or 2018 ceremony in Poland / Report and photos
12/10/2018 - Events
Piolets d’Or 2018 ceremony in Poland / Report and photos
Complete report and photographs of the Piolets d’Or 2018, the prestigious annual mountaineering award celebrated from 20 - 23 September at Ladek Zdrój in Poland.
Marmolada South Face climbed by Nikolaj Niebuhr, Danish mountaineer with hemiplegia
09/10/2018 - Alpinism
Marmolada south face climbed by Nikolaj Niebuhr, Danish mountaineer with hemiplegia
Paraclimbing: Nikolaj Niebuhr has repeated the classic Bettega - Tomasson climb up the south face of Marmolada, Dolomites. This ascent marks an important moment for the 35-year-old Dane who, following an operation for cerebral edema aged 8, has been partially paralysed in the righthand side of his body.
Significant rockfall on Trident du Tacul in Mont Blanc massif
26/09/2018 - Alpinism
Significant rockfall on Trident du Tacul in Mont Blanc massif
Last night significant rockfall took place on the Trident du Tacul, close to the Grand Capucin (Mont Blanc massif).
Matterhorn: new rock climb Diretta allo Scudo by François Cazzanelli & Co
24/09/2018 - Alpinism
Matterhorn: new rock climb Diretta allo Scudo by François Cazzanelli & Co
Matterhorn climbing: on the mountain’s south face the Italian François Cazzanelli has completed Diretta allo Scudo, a new rock climb he established with Roberto Ferraris, Francesco Ratti, Emrik Favre and Marco Farina.
New Zealand: another mixed climb up Aoraki / Mount Cook
11/09/2018 - Alpinism
New Zealand: another mixed climb up Aoraki / Mount Cook
Mountaineers Caleb Jennings and Kim Ladiges have made the first ascent of Pilgrim, a new mixed climb up the south face of Aoraki / Mt Cook (3,764 m) in New Zealand.
Latok I. The Aleš Česen interview
06/09/2018 - Interviews
Latok I. The Aleš Česen interview
Interview with Slovenian alpinist Aleš Česen after the ascent, carried out with Luka Stražar and Tom Livingstone, of Latok I via the north and south face. The three were only the second team to reach the summit of the 7,145m high mountain in Pakistan’s Karakorum after the 1979 first ascent.
Cosmiques Arête rockfall on Mont Blanc
27/08/2018 - Alpinism
Cosmiques Arête rockfall on Mont Blanc
Rockfall took place on 22 August 2018 on the famous Arête des Cosmiques in the Mont Blanc massif. La Chamoniarde is currently strongly advising against climbing the popular Cosmiques Arête ridgeline.
Jeff Lowe, goodbye to one of the world's most influential mountaineers
26/08/2018 - Alpinism
Jeff Lowe, goodbye to one of the world's most influential mountaineers
On 24 August 2018 Jeff Lowe, one of the world’s most influential mountaineers, passed away aged 67. The American climber was widely recognised as one for the strongest alpinists of his generation.
Tom Frost, farewell to Yosemite Golden Age climbing legend
25/08/2018 - Climbing
Tom Frost, farewell to Yosemite Golden Age climbing legend
On 24 August 2018 American climber Tom Frost died aged 81. Frost was one of the pioneering climbers and photographers during the Golden Age of Yosemite climbing.
Latok I climbed after 40 years by Aleš Česen, Luka Stražar, Tom Livingstone
14/08/2018 - Alpinism
Latok I climbed after 40 years by Aleš Česen, Luka Stražar, Tom Livingstone
Slovenians Aleš Česen and Luka Stražar and Briton Tom Livingstone have climbed Latok I (7145 m) in the Karakorum (Pakistan), This is only the second ascent of the mountain, after the first ascent carried out by a Japanese expedition in 1979.
Mathieu Maynadier, lucky escape after rockfall in Tagas Valley, Karakorum
09/08/2018 - Alpinism
Mathieu Maynadier, lucky escape after rockfall in Tagas Valley, Karakorum
On 6 August 2018 French mountaineer Mathieu Maynadier was hit by rockfall while on an climbing expedition in the Thagas Valley in Pakistan’s Karakorum with Nicolas Favresse, Carlos Molina and Jean-Louis Wertz. Maynadier was taken to Skardu military hospital by helicopter where his condition is far better than initially feared....
Breiflogtinden East Face first ascent on Norway's Lofoten islands
03/08/2018 - Climbing
Breiflogtinden East Face first ascent on Norway's Lofoten islands
Russian climbers Dmitrii Panov, Andrey Panov and Anar Demirov have completed their Arctic Odyssey, probably the first new climb up the East Face of Breiflogtinden on the Lofoten Islands in Norway.