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East is East, a Catinaccio triptych in the Dolomites. By Tom Ballard.
24/09/2015 - Alpinism
East is East, a Catinaccio triptych in the Dolomites. By Tom Ballard.
British climber Tom Ballard reports about the first ascents, and first free ascents, of three routes climbed on Catinaccio - Rosengarten in the Dolomites together with Stefania Pederiva (daughter of Val di Fassa mountain guide Bruno Pederiva): Baptism of Fire (535m VIII+ (VII obl.), Scarlet Fever (300m IX- (VII+ obl.)...
Tsaranoro, two big new rock climbs in Madagascar by Sean Villanueva
24/09/2015 - Climbing
Tsaranoro, two big new rock climbs in Madagascar by Sean Villanueva
In August 2015 in Madagascar's Tsaranoro massif Sean Villanueva made the first ascent of Fire in the Belly (8a+, 700m) on Tsaranoro Atsimo together with Siebe Vanhee. In September Villanueva teamed up with Rakotomalala Herynony Samuel to make the first ascent of the hitherto untouched Angavoa wall via the new...
New multi-pitch rock climb in Fischleintal, Dolomites
17/09/2015 - Climbing
New multi-pitch rock climb in Fischleintal, Dolomites
This summer in Fischleintal, just a stone’s throw from the famous Tre Cime di Lavaredo, the South Tyrolean alpinists Markus Tschurtschenthaler and Hannes Pfeifhofer, and Lisi Steurer from Austria’s East Tyrol made the first ascent of Weg der Neugier, a new 500m alpine sports climb up Einserkofel in the Italian...
Cerro Torre and the 1985 first winter ascent
23/07/2015 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre and the 1985 first winter ascent
It's currently winter in Patagonia. Exactly 30 years ago, in July 1985, the Italians Paolo Caruso, Maurizio Giarolli, Andrea Sarchi and Ermanno Salvaterra carried out the historic first winter ascent of Cerro Torre via the 'Compressor route' established by Cesare Maestri up the East Ridge. Here is a short film...
Sardinia Torri di San Pantaleo, two new rock climbs on Punta Balbacanu
08/07/2015 - Climbing
Sardinia Torri di San Pantaleo, two new rock climbs on Punta Balbacanu
Maurizio Oviglia introduces two new rock climbs on Punta Balbacanu Punta Balbacanu (Torri di San Pantaleo, Gallura, Sardinia): Un granello di sale (VIII-, VII oblig, 335 mt, Maurizio Oviglia, Fabio Erri 03/2015) and I denti del drago (VII+, VI+ oblig, Tomas Krul, Marek Flekal, Fabio Erriu 06/2015).
Grand Combin de Grafenière snowboarding trilogy
Grand Combin de Grafenière snowboarding trilogy
Davide Capozzi reports about three first snowboard descents on Grand Combin de Grafenière, carried out with Julien Herry and Denis Trento.
The King: the first time up the Monviso Coolidge Couloir, by Ivo Ferrari
21/05/2015 - Alpinism
The King: the first time up the Monviso Coolidge Couloir, by Ivo Ferrari
The North Face of Monviso (3841m) and its Coolidge Gully, one of those climbs "I'd always like to do." By Ivo Ferrari
Pain de Sucre and the Voie Originale descent by Capozzi, Herry and Civra Dano
Pain de Sucre and the Voie Originale descent by Capozzi, Herry and Civra Dano
David Capozzi reports about the 10 May first snowboard and ski descent, carried out together with Julien Herry and Francesco Civra Dano, of the entire Voie Originale down the North Face of Pain de Sucre, Mont Blanc.
Breche Victor Chaud - Couloir Pèlas Verney
Breche Victor Chaud - Couloir Pèlas Verney
The magnificent ski descent down Couloir Pèlas Verney on Breche Victor Chaud (3142m) in France's Écrins massif. By Mattia Salvi.
XX Mezzalama behind the scenes...
XX Mezzalama behind the scenes...
The 'behind the scenes' insight written by Marco Spataro, one of the many mountain guides and pros involved in safety preparations of the twentieth edition of Mezzalama, the legendary ski mountaineering competition on Monte Rosa, won last Saturday by Michele Boscacci, Matteo Eydallin and Damiano Lenzi and by Emelie Forsberg,...
Ulassai and the crack climbing at Su Sussiu in Sardinia
21/04/2015 - Climbing
Ulassai and the crack climbing at Su Sussiu in Sardinia
Maurizio Oviglia talks about the latest climbing development in Sardinia: four beautiful cracks and two multi-pitch routes at Su Accara and Su Sussiu.
XX Mezzalama legendary ski mountaineering Saturday 25 April
20/04/2015 - Competitions
XX Mezzalama legendary ski mountaineering Saturday 25 April
The XX Mezzalama, the legendary ski mountaineering competition in the Monte Rosa massif, takes place on 25 April 2015. Marco Spataro reports.
In Vino Veritas, new ice cimb in the Fanes Dolomites
18/04/2015 - Alpinism
In Vino Veritas, new ice cimb in the Fanes Dolomites
On 21/03/2015 Manuel Baumgartner and Martin Baumgartner made the first ascent of In Vino Veritas, a new of ice and mixed climb up Banc dal Se’, Fanes, Dolomites.
Heart and muscles: Mont Blanc on foot and by bike
15/04/2015 - Alpinism
Heart and muscles: Mont Blanc on foot and by bike
From Padua, close to Venice, all the way to the summit of Mont Blanc: a bicycle ride that culminated on the summit of the symbol of mountaineering. A great adventure experienced at just the right speed which, three summers down the line, still lives on in the memories of the...
Piolet d'Or 2015: the grande finale at Courmayeur
13/04/2015 - Alpinism
Piolet d'Or 2015: the grande finale at Courmayeur
On Saturday 11 April the awards ceremony of the 23rd Piolets d'Or, the Oscars of alpinism, were held at Courmayeur, Italy. Americans Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold, Russians Aleksander Gukov and Aleksey Lonchinsky and Slovenians Marko Prezelj, Ales Cesen and Luka Lindic were awarded the Piolet d'Or 2015. Britain’s Chris...
Sivridağ, new trad climb in Anatolia, Turkey
09/04/2015 - Alpinism
Sivridağ, new trad climb in Anatolia, Turkey
Tunç Fındık reports about Sivridağ in the Beydağları massif, one of the most important trad climbing areas in Turkey where together with Rauf Osman Pınarbaşı he has now made the first ascent of Punisher (450m, VI).

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