417 News found
02/10/2015 - Climbing
King of the Bongo on Qualido in Val di Mello climbed by Marazzi, de Zaiacomo and Schiera In autumn 2014 Paolo Marazzi, Matteo de Zaiacomo and Luca Schiera completed the first ascent of King of the Bongo, a new climb that shares the first two pitches with Passi di Bimbo to then explore a 700m, independent, difficult and at times dangerous line up the Qualido Face in...
01/10/2015 - Alpinism
Maja Vidmar and her first multi-pitch climb in the Dolomites The report by Slovenian sports climbing champion Maja Vidmar who this summer climbed her first multi-pitch route in the Dolomites, the famous Comici - Dimai on Cima Grande, Tre Cime di Lavaredo.
29/09/2015 - Alpinism
Pelmo North Face winter ascent. A climbing story for commanders only Ivo Ferrari retraces the winter repeat of the Pelmo North Face, carried out in the Dolomites by Soro Dorotei, Renato Panciera and Giuliano De Marchi. One of the most memorable stories of alpinism and winter mountaineering
24/09/2015 - Alpinism
East is East, a Catinaccio triptych in the Dolomites. By Tom Ballard. British climber Tom Ballard reports about the first ascents, and first free ascents, of three routes climbed on Catinaccio - Rosengarten in the Dolomites together with Stefania Pederiva (daughter of Val di Fassa mountain guide Bruno Pederiva): Baptism of Fire (535m VIII+ (VII obl.), Scarlet Fever (300m IX- (VII+ obl.)...
24/09/2015 - Climbing
Tsaranoro, two big new rock climbs in Madagascar by Sean Villanueva In August 2015 in Madagascar's Tsaranoro massif Sean Villanueva made the first ascent of Fire in the Belly (8a+, 700m) on Tsaranoro Atsimo together with Siebe Vanhee. In September Villanueva teamed up with Rakotomalala Herynony Samuel to make the first ascent of the hitherto untouched Angavoa wall via the new...
17/09/2015 - Climbing
New multi-pitch rock climb in Fischleintal, Dolomites This summer in Fischleintal, just a stone’s throw from the famous Tre Cime di Lavaredo, the South Tyrolean alpinists Markus Tschurtschenthaler and Hannes Pfeifhofer, and Lisi Steurer from Austria’s East Tyrol made the first ascent of Weg der Neugier, a new 500m alpine sports climb up Einserkofel in the Italian...
23/07/2015 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre and the 1985 first winter ascent It's currently winter in Patagonia. Exactly 30 years ago, in July 1985, the Italians Paolo Caruso, Maurizio Giarolli, Andrea Sarchi and Ermanno Salvaterra carried out the historic first winter ascent of Cerro Torre via the 'Compressor route' established by Cesare Maestri up the East Ridge. Here is a short film...
08/07/2015 - Climbing
Sardinia Torri di San Pantaleo, two new rock climbs on Punta Balbacanu Maurizio Oviglia introduces two new rock climbs on Punta Balbacanu Punta Balbacanu (Torri di San Pantaleo, Gallura, Sardinia): Un granello di sale (VIII-, VII oblig, 335 mt, Maurizio Oviglia, Fabio Erri 03/2015) and I denti del drago (VII+, VI+ oblig, Tomas Krul, Marek Flekal, Fabio Erriu 06/2015).
05/06/2015 - Snow Ski-skimountaineering
Grand Combin de Grafenière snowboarding trilogy Davide Capozzi reports about three first snowboard descents on Grand Combin de Grafenière, carried out with Julien Herry and Denis Trento.
21/05/2015 - Alpinism
The King: the first time up the Monviso Coolidge Couloir, by Ivo Ferrari The North Face of Monviso (3841m) and its Coolidge Gully, one of those climbs "I'd always like to do." By Ivo Ferrari
15/05/2015 - Snow Ski-skimountaineering
Pain de Sucre and the Voie Originale descent by Capozzi, Herry and Civra Dano David Capozzi reports about the 10 May first snowboard and ski descent, carried out together with Julien Herry and Francesco Civra Dano, of the entire Voie Originale down the North Face of Pain de Sucre, Mont Blanc.
13/05/2015 - Snow Ski-skimountaineering
Breche Victor Chaud - Couloir Pèlas Verney The magnificent ski descent down Couloir Pèlas Verney on Breche Victor Chaud (3142m) in France's Écrins massif. By Mattia Salvi.
04/05/2015 - Snow Ski-skimountaineering
XX Mezzalama behind the scenes... The 'behind the scenes' insight written by Marco Spataro, one of the many mountain guides and pros involved in safety preparations of the twentieth edition of Mezzalama, the legendary ski mountaineering competition on Monte Rosa, won last Saturday by Michele Boscacci, Matteo Eydallin and Damiano Lenzi and by Emelie Forsberg,...
21/04/2015 - Climbing
Ulassai and the crack climbing at Su Sussiu in Sardinia Maurizio Oviglia talks about the latest climbing development in Sardinia: four beautiful cracks and two multi-pitch routes at Su Accara and Su Sussiu.
20/04/2015 - Competitions
XX Mezzalama legendary ski mountaineering Saturday 25 April The XX Mezzalama, the legendary ski mountaineering competition in the Monte Rosa massif, takes place on 25 April 2015. Marco Spataro reports.
18/04/2015 - Alpinism
In Vino Veritas, new ice cimb in the Fanes Dolomites On 21/03/2015 Manuel Baumgartner and Martin Baumgartner made the first ascent of In Vino Veritas, a new of ice and mixed climb up Banc dal Se’, Fanes, Dolomites.
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