New Australian rock climbs in Siberia's Bilibino

After discovering the potential of Siberia’s granite big wall eldorado Bilibino only last year together with Chris Warner, Australia’s Chris Fitzgerald returned this summer along with Natasha Sebire and Gemma Woldendorp. The trio operated in a cirque they named Finger Crack Cirque, circa 8 km from the Commander and General Peaks where Fitzgerald had climbed last year and where 8 new routes were established just before the Australians arrived by a strong international team of climbers comprised of Hansjörg Auer, Jacopo Larcher, Eneko Pou, Iker Pou and Siebe Vanhee. The sweeping graniteNNW facing Finger Crack Cirque reaches up to 500m in height, offers over a kilometer of good quality granite and received its name because of the abundance of obvious cracklines.

After setting up camp in a picturesque spot next to a lake in the Finger Crack Cirque valley, Fitzgerald, Sebire and Woldendorp climbed three routes to the top of the wall in the Finger Crack Cirque: The Propusk (6a) follows a fairly continuous crack system to the right of a blunt buttress for 290m, and then exits by scrambling along a diagonal ledge of loose rock for 300m;  Vodka and Lemming (6a, 525m) takes a direct line up a crack system, topping out at the highest part of the wall near the head of the valley; and Orbital Sander (6c+, 440m) climbs a soaring crack line from bottom to top on an impressive and steeper part in the middle of the wall. Getting off from the top of the Finger Crack Cirque is straightforward as it involves an easy hike down the long ridge. Woldendorp and Sebire also climbed a 110m route next to Vodka and Lemming - Lemming Meringue Pie (5a) finishes at a ledge that intersects this part of the wall.

Snow came early this year, in the middle of August instead of the middle of September, which put an end to any further climbing in the Finger Crack Cirque. However, during these cold conditions, the team made the first ascent of Weasel Tower which is a prominent finger of rock that lies in a valley north of the Finger Crack Cirque. The route, Siberian Summer (6b+ A1, 160m) goes directly up the east face of the tower. 

Commenting in her report, Gemma Woldendorp stated "The Bilibino granite walls have huge potential for new routes, as well as first ascents in other valleys as yet unclimbed, all in a relatively concentrated area that is no more than 12km across. The rock quality is generally very good and quite clean, but sometimes there are sections of moist moss- or grass-filled cracks, loose rock and flakey black lichen. The summer is very short in Siberia, and climbing there is a balance between going too early and enduring unbearable mosquitos or going a bit later and risking colder weather. For future visitors, note that the Bilibino granite walls lie in the Chukokta autonomous region where a special permit is required to enter. As the area is remote and receives very few visitors, the Russian authorities don’t make it easy to get this special permit and it is suggested that any future climbing teams contact the authorities in the Chukokta region at least three months before planning to go."