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Hervé Barmasse, Patagonia and three first winter ascents
23/10/2013 - Alpinism
Hervé Barmasse, Patagonia and three first winter ascents
In September Hervé Barmasse with Martin Castrillo made the first winter ascent of Cerro Pollone and with Martin Castrillo and Pedrito el "fino" the first ascent (in winter) of two of the three Colmillos summits in the Cordon Marconi area.
Kapura South, first ascent in Pakistan's Nangma Valley by Daniela Teixeira and Paulo Roxo
02/10/2013 - Alpinism
Kapura South, first ascent in Pakistan's Nangma Valley by Daniela Teixeira and Paulo Roxo
In early September 2013 the Portugese climbers Daniela Teixeira and Paulo Roxo made the first ascent Kapura South (6350m) in the Nangma Valley, Karakoram, Pakistan, via their route Never Ending Dreams (1300m, M4).
New route up Monte Sarmiento East: the second after this historic 1956 first ascent by Mauri and Maffei
27/09/2013 - Interviews
New route up Monte Sarmiento East: the second after this historic 1956 first ascent by Mauri and Maffei
Interview with Chilean alpinist Camilo Rada after the first ascent, carried out with Natalia Martinez from Argentina, of a new route up the North Face of Monte Sarmiento in Patagonia. Suerte de Sarmiento is only the second route to the East summit after the first ascent carried out by Clemente...
Hansjörg Auer and Simon Anthamatten, the interview after Kunyang Chhish East
23/08/2013 - Interviews
Hansjörg Auer and Simon Anthamatten, the interview after Kunyang Chhish East
Interview with Hansjörg Auer and Simon Anthamatten after the historic first ascent of Kunyang Chhish East, Karakorum, Pakistan, carried out in July 2013 together with Matthias Auer up the formidable SW Face.
New rock climb in Valle dell' Orco
09/08/2013 - Climbing
New rock climb in Valle dell' Orco
Maurizio Oviglia introduces Rataplan (175m, 7a+ max (6b obligatory) /RS2/I), a new multi-pitch climb first ascended together with Damiano Ceresa on 1 August and freed a few days later with with Cecilia Marchi up the Parete della Grande Ala, Chiapili di Sotto, Valle dell'Orco in Italy.
Divine Providence climbed by Andrea Di Donato and Bertrand Lemaire
08/08/2013 - Alpinism
Divine Providence climbed by Andrea Di Donato and Bertrand Lemaire
The story of the recent repeat of Divine Providence by Andrea Di Donato and Bertrand Lemaire. Established in 1984 by French alpinists Patrick Gabarrou and François Marsigny and graded ABO, Divine Providence up the Gran Pilier d'Angle was freed in 1990 by Alain Ghersen and Thierry Renault. Even today this...
Beauty and the Beast, first ascent on Alaska's Gargoyle
10/07/2013 - Alpinism
Beauty and the Beast, first ascent on Alaska's Gargoyle
In Alaska's Ruth Gorge the Austrians Alex Bluemel and Gerry Fiegl have made the first ascent of Beauty and the Beast (7a+ 650m A3) on the Gargoyle. Shortly afterwards the two Tyrolean mountaineers made the first repeat of the long Tooth Traverse. Gerry Fiegl provides the report.
Avalanche at Höttinger Alm above Innsbruck
avalanche at Höttinger Alm above Innsbruck
The video of an avalanche which struck on 1/06/2013 close to Höttinger Alm, above Innsbruck (Austria).
Tragedy on Kangchenjunga
22/05/2013 - Alpinism
Tragedy on Kangchenjunga
Five mountaineers have lost their loves on Kangchenjunga in the Himalaya: the Hungarians Zsolt Eross and Péter Kiss, Park Nam Su from Korea and two Sherpa, Phurba Sherpa and Bibach Sherpa.
XIX Mezzalama Trophy, Saturday 4 May live on Planetmountain.com
03/05/2013 - Competitions
XIX Mezzalama Trophy, Saturday 4 May live on Planetmountain.com
Mezzalama Trophy gets underway on Saturday 4 May, the classic ski mountaineering competition from Breuil-Cervinia to Gressoney across the slopes of Monte Rosa. The start has been put forward to 5:00am.
Avalanche at Saint Christophe en Oisans in France
19/04/2013 - Alpinism
avalanche at Saint Christophe en Oisans in France
The film of the avalanche of snow and rocks opposite the via Ferrata de Saint Christophe en Oisans in France.
Molignon and the video of L'Onda di Hokusai on Rosengarten
04/04/2013 - Alpinism
Molignon and the video of L'Onda di Hokusai on Rosengarten
Video of Philipp Angelo, Andreas Tonelli, Thomas Gianola and Klaus Baumgartner climbing their L'Onda di Hokusai, Molignon di Dentro, Rosengarten, Dolomites.
L'Onda di Hokusai, the great new route up Molignon di Dentro in the Dolomites by Angelo and Tonelli
02/04/2013 - Alpinism
L'Onda di Hokusai, the great new route up Molignon di Dentro in the Dolomites by Angelo and Tonelli
Andreas Tonelli reports about L'Onda di Hokusai (750m, WI5+, 60°, M3), the new route he forged together with Philipp Angelo up the NE Face of Molignon di Dentro, Rosengarten, Dolomites.
MacLeod adds two new winter climbs to Ben Nevis
26/02/2013 - Alpinism
MacLeod adds two new winter climbs to Ben Nevis
Dave MacLeod has made the first ascent of two new winter climbs on Ben Nevis in Scotland, White Noise M10+/M11 and The Snotter VIII,8.
Lacelle Qui Reste, new ice climb in Canada
14/01/2013 - Alpinism
Lacelle Qui Reste, new ice climb in Canada
On 30/12/2012 Raphael Slawinski and Eamonn Walsh established Lacelle Qui Reste (40m, WI6) on Mt. Wilson, Canada.
Corrado Pesce and his climbs in Patagonia
09/01/2013 - Alpinism
Corrado Pesce and his climbs in Patagonia
'How could I define the time spent in Patagonia. Expedition? Holiday? Journey? The right term is none of these' The trip report by Corrado Korra Pesce who has just spent a month in Patagonia which resulted in a series of ascents including a fast repeat of Supercanaleta up Fitz Roy...